Any ideas?

Newbee here with my first post so apologies if I break any rules. I have searched for some info but with little success so far and hence the reason for this post.

My wife has a 2009 X3 Jap import. When purchased it had a navigation system with a small screen on the dash but it was only Jap maps so I decided to upgrade it to a google based screen and purchased one from AliExpress. The unit arrived and I after checking everything I noticed the unit sent was for a car without a screen and mine had one so I little issue but The thought of trying to send it back to China.......... My thoughts were,  it can not be that different and decided to go ahead and fit it.

Jumping forward I have the unit installed but have a few issues, the main one is that there is no sound coming from the Android unit athough the stereo and CD are ok.  

I was hoping someone else may have had a similar experience or can offer some help.

 Thanks in advance.

It has the business tape deck with CD Changer, so I can get: 

1. An AUX adapter that replaces the CD Changer - this would be ideal if it plugged in at the back of the stereo rather than in the boot at the changer end.

2. Tape adapter - I've got a tape stuck in my tape player, but I'm sure I can fix it. Apparently the Sony Walkman adapter, and a few others, actually give decent sound. 

3. Soldering to tape line outputs - this looks like a good option, but some people have stated that the audio quality is bad with this method.

All I need is a 3.5mm input jack in my system - I can't use the genuine BMW adapter as it only works for stereos built after 09/2002

Here's the car: 

Thanks

Having just picked up an '06 E53 X5 3.0D, I've noticed it has a horribly massive blind spot when reversing, big enough to run over a child, a dog, a small town...... never felt the need for one before until now........

Are there any plug and play factory based units that will support an aftermarket camera being retrofitted? I don't care if sat nav ever works, more than happy to use my phone for navigation, and can wire a camera in piece of piss. Bluetooth would definitely be handy but I have a decent work-around to that if that's not possible to incorporate.

I'd rather not go down the path of replacing the whole unit with some el-cheapo Android unit, if that's the only solution then I'd just get a camera kit with a small screen to mount somewhere and be done with it (just not that keep on having something attached to the windscreen or in an oddball place to look at), ideally I would prefer something in dash that keeps all the functionality of the factory MID and stereo system, that isn't a PITA to rewire absolutely everything, doesn't cost my left testicle to install and keeps the factory appearance.

Want to update mine wondering what's the easiest way to do it I don't have the map data files

It was connected to other phones, so worked, but not with this.

And if there is a simple fix, can you add BT audio as well?

Question:  If i get a replacement amp from a breakers will it just work or do I need to faff around with coding?  Second question is if I upgrade to an android style unit later on will can I keep the existing arrangement with the amp?  I'm not into ICE but like the basics.

Cheers.

Currently looking at options for adding an aux functionality to my 2001 E39 and the GROM units have caught my attention. I want to keep the stock head unit but am getting tired of listening to the same CDs/radio. I know to add an aux function to the standard setup requires a head unit with a build date post 09/2002, and my car being a 2001 won't have the right one. 

Has anyone had any experience with these GROM units? Are they compatible with a pre 09/2002 head unit? The GROM website seems to think they work with all model years, and I have emailed them to check this to which they confirmed. Also with installation, does anyone have any experience with this sort of thing?

Here's a link to what I'm looking at:  https://gromaudio.com/store/aux1_adapters/bmw_mini_98-05_auxiliary_adapter_kit_-_behind_the_radio.html

Any advice is greatly appreciated.

Cheers

The DVD/CD drive works fine and there is an option to select CD on screen although it is greyed out if no disc is present. The MD player on the other hand loads discs but there is no option anywhere on the screen to select MD as an input and I can't get it to play, the option isn't even there greyed out. At this stage I don't think it has anything to do with the recording format as I would of thought I would be able to at least see MD as an option on screen, greyed out or not.

Yes I know MD's are historic but I'm going through a nostalgic phase and reliving my youth 😀

There are options that retain the stock headunit, but many $$$ seem to be involved. I've even seen one where the cassette mechanism is replaced by a bluetooth unit.
Simpler and quicker is an aftermarket unit.

Anyone fitted one? I know it requires a single DIN adapter to fit the larger 'hole' the BMW unit uses - any good sources for that?

Now the question, 

Can I simply cut the original plug off mine and wire in the new unit? I am aware nav won't work but I want the OBC functions 

I now have all available NZ frequencies and full Bluetooth streaming. I've also enabled the Bluetooth streaming on my mates F11, who was also quoted $800 to have this done. 

Im not sure how the heavy prices are calculated, but if anyone needs the above done on their F-series that cant quite afford the $1k mark, feel free to drop me a PM and ill see if i can help 🙂 

New here but was wondering if anyone knows how to convert idrive from Japanese to NZ to get radio stations etc. Oh and who is the best to service BMW 335i? Thanks for your help.

The GPS/mapping option is not enabled anywhere I can see, no map DVD in the head unit, no way of accessing maps or nav from the menu. 

Can anyone explain why this happens?

After doing the initial installation of the retrofit the kit I was faced with PDC sound and steering wheel track select issues. No amount of coding would fix it, and Bimmer Retrofit suggested a firmware update to the FeNBT box to address it. The problem may have arisen from the fact that my car has a ZGW2-High from factory, and the FeNBT is not 100% compatible with it. Another strange issue was that the NBT would not save my unit settings, so every time the car booted up it would reset to default, which in my car's case is UK MPG etc. So I did install version two today:

* Removed the FeNBT retrofit adapter
* Updated SWFL (both) and BTLD of the ZGW2-High with 8SK software. For my ZGW2-High they were btld_000010f5-003_004_090, SWFL_0000092b-005_018_00, SWFL000010f6-003_004_160. The ZGW now shows up as ZGW2 in esys, where before it was just ZGW (despite being a ZGW2-High)
* Tapped the CAN2 high and low at the CAS
* ZBE3 and Touch ECU are also tapped into CAN2
* Restored original PDC button wiring

The retrofit works 100%. Initially the NBT would not display my top view or PDC, but the sounds worked. I resolved this by doing a fresh FA code with my original FA but with the Zeitkriterium updated to 0712. The retrofit is 100% feature complete and I did not have to do any module swaps or modifications other than flashing the ZGW2 with 8SK software. Also, the car's original wiring is 100% intact, except for 2 splice connectors 🙂

FeNBT adapter removed

PDC TSRVC original button wiring restored and working

PDC TSRVC working 100%

Steering wheel list wheel functionality restored

The information above is still relevant as a guide if the ZGW2 route is not viable in your case. Steps like the removal of the COMBOX and USB cable routing as well as the disassembly steps are also still required, even with the 8SK method.

Also, the standard disclaimer applies. The information below is based on my experience and I give no guarantee that the information is applicable or relevant to any other car configuration.

Here we are folks. It's been a wee wait while the kit was assembled but it arrived and was installed in an afternoon (no jokes). It is a challenging retrofit if you have no experience with these things. At the very least you need to be able to read wiring diagrams and also have either the knowledge required to disassemble the interior of your car or know how to sear and read the info on TIS. Others have covered more technical details of the install. My writeup will be step-by-step of what I did.

Before starting removed the footwell side carpets, centre console side plastic trim, and trim roof in driver's footwell. Info on how to do this can be found on TIS.

This is the kit. It includes MOST cable, USB cable, Adapter, Touch Module, 2x wiring sets for touch and controller, harness, touch controller, APIX cable, Bluetooth Antenna, HU_NBT.

Roof down and rear head rests out. These are a royal PITA to remove. I find that grabbing on to them and moving side to side is the easiest way to get them out.

Front seats forward as far as they will go. Rear bench out. Again, PITA to get out. Grabbing the outer edges and pulling up is the easiest way to get it out. It takes some effort, but eventually it will budge.

Rear backrest is held in place by two bolts, and once removed can be tilted forward. No need to remove the seatbelts. You have more than enough access to the COMBOX. Note the brace. This has to be removed.

Said brace removed. Little bolt is example of one of the 4 bolts securing the COMBOX to its frame.

COMBOX removed.

COMBOX wiring and MOST disconnected. The little blue tab needs to be pushed out in order for the most cables to be removed.

COMBOX MOST terminated.

At this stage we move to the front. Recline the front seats as far as they can, and move them all they way back.

Locate the ZGW underneath the driver's side dashboard.

Remove the MOST connecter, and disassemble it in the same manner as the COMBOX MOST.

ZGW MOST terminated.

Old CID removed. Next remove the backing plate.

Basic disassembly done. This is what a 6-series console looks like when it's stripped out like a nuclear winter 😄

Bind up the old CID Apix and power connectors and secure behind the dashboard.

Connect MOST cable supplied with the retrofit kit to the ZGW.

Feed MOST through sidewall into cavity behind the HU.

Connect MOST to the FeNBT adapter.

Remove beige connecter from USB port in armrest storage.

Feed new USB cable underneath the console carrier from HU to armrest storage.

New USB cable connected.

New bluetooth antenna in a neat little wedge between the HU and air vents.

NBT hooked up and ready to be tested for the first time.

At this stage the old idrive controller (ZBE2) is still connected. 

It works!

USB connection in armrest works.

Touch controller (ZBE3) and Touch ECU connected. This was a more technical step as it requires you to wire the ZBE3 and ECU to the CAN-H, CAN-L, Battery and Ground cables. Not that big a deal. I used splice connectors for a super clean install.

Touch works. I'm still not convinced about the usefulness of touch input since we drive on the right side of the road, and writing with the left hand is average at best.

The trim surround of the ZBE3 has to be removed since the surround from the ZBE2 stays in the centre console, and fits perfectly around the ZBE3. This can be done without destroying the surround. All you need is a small flat head screw driver and some patience.

ZBE3 in place and fits perfectly.

The instructions call for the PDC Camera buttons to be connected to the FeNBT adapter. Three wires in a 4-pin connector is all it takes. I actually replaced this blue one with a new one which I purchased from BMW, along with new crimp connectors.

First drive outside with the roof down. The screen is excellent (remember that this is one I ordered from China...not one that came with the kit).

And there you have it. I took the photo of the complete kit on 23 April 2019 at 2:58 PM and the install was done by 5:30pm.

As smoothly as the install went, it is not without challenges. Currently my PDC sounds and steering wheel track buttons do not work. Bimmer Retrofit are working with me to resolve the problem. I also cannot connect to the NBT though OBD despite having ZGH High installed. I will update the ZGW tomorrow to see if that solves the problem, or else connect directly to the NBT using an RJ45 cable. Once I can connect to it I can complete the coding and get my cameras back 🙂

To help troubleshoot any potential wiring issues I removed all the unused wires from the harness (more than half of them, in fact). I also initially cut the connector from the 4-pin connected to the PDC button, but have since re-pinned it to a new connector, just in case it ever needs to be reconnected.

Overall I am very happy with the kit and the support from Bimmer Retrofit. Beyond the headlights there is no way to tell that my car is Pre-LCI, and even then very few of the LCI models (even those with EVO) have the glass screens.

Happy to answer any questions 🙂