Thus creating a 4.8l non vanos V8 = a power increase over the standard 4.4l

I know Alpina created the M62B46 for their Alpina B10 E39.

Anybody done this??

I’ve acquired an NZ New 2009 335i (E90) and I’m looking into doing catless downpipes. My understanding is that being a 2009 car it’s ok. 

Could I get some suggestions as to what kit I should buy? And where from? Nothing extravagant... 

I’ll get a local euro mechanic to do the swap out. 

Many thanks!

I need the inlet neck on the front of a turbo alloy compressor housing machined / lathed / CNC'd down to a lower level. 

Before I start calling around shops for a quote, does anyone know the perfect place in the Auckland area to have something dealt with accordingly?

Or is there anyone in the Bimmersport community I could hit up? 

Let me know, Cheers mike. 

3rd Place in American Endurance Races 2017 (3rd Out of 80 Cars)

24Hr Endurance Race:

Dyno Pull:

38th Place in Bimmerfest East USA 2017

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3Mu7SGnrPoI&t=

Bix 7 2018 UK National Kit Car Show Stoneleigh (May Issue)

https://www.facebook.com/dmosportscars/

First ever M122H GT500 Blower on a BMW I6. Capable of 13 - 30PSI.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7_klgYGm0zA

Pre Production:

Dynos from an M54B30 NZ Build only 6 PSI.

Literally Hundreds of Clients world wide. Brackets current evolution is V2.1 X (Adds support for Larger Alternators), are powder coated, robots who do welding at the factory who makes parts for BOSH, Yes, thats how big we are now. Never had a Complaint. Also sell plans, if you make it yourself, you are responsible for the quality. I also dont do tuning, that costs more, Have Tuners in UK, EU and USA. Brackets are universal. Ships from UK. Craftsmanship and Quality Guarantied.

Quality:

How brackets are made:

We will shortly have access to 100 octane fuel courtesy of NPD so I'm thinking of looking at stage 2.

How important is it to install a bigger intercooler given the temp at the moment isn't really getting above 10c down south?

Turns out at full vacuum one was still open about 6mm, be interesting to see how it drives now.

Hopefully I will get 12 months out of them before I have to pull the pin and replace both turbos.

I'm just wondering if anyone has a link to an OBD2 cable which will work to flash my '07 335i (preferably sourced within NZ) - just looking to see if anyone has had any luck with cheaper alternatives, or am I better to buy a more expensive one from Bimmergeeks / one of their competitors?

Cheers

I know this has been discussed before awhile back but i have hit a road block with my turbo manifold and wanted peoples opinion before i go and start spending $$$

So i managed to semi build myself an turbo manifold with individual runners but have run into issues on the collector end as i don't really have space for the wastegate unless i mount it on top of collector (which with my welder blowing a gas bottle, i need a new regulator + gas so that's about 350-400 i can put on that or someone else finishing my exhuast off)

So check out pics attached and let me know your thoughts (Note i have a twin scroll turbo)

1. Go back to log style manifold (more space but likely wont support my power numbers i want)

2. Keep as is with bottom mount and have someone finish off the manifold

3. Keep same style but change to top mount (only issue is getting 2.5" outlet into two pipes, which i confirmed will just fit between last runner & firewall and 6/5)

4. Buy this and just get a 50mm flange installed - http://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-M30-T4-Turbo-Manifold-E30-E32-E34-E28-E24-E23-E9-/131806544376

5. Or go with this guys idea (pictures at top and bottom of page) and make down pipes fit -  http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=285809

I am personally leaning towards options 3/4/5 but i do like option 5 as i could probably do with materials i currently have and just tac together and get someone to finish off but noticed there is no wastegate (so don't know if space is there)

So let me know what you think and if need be we will do a poll and go for it + anyone know any good fabricators in manwatu/welly region as i would prefer local rather than sending the car somewhere else in the country.

Note: Topcat , BMWorld and other members have been awesome so far with info and i will be representing bimmersport once this is up and running (dreams)

I enquired at the only southern turbo specialist I could find but he said it wasn’t really worth it and gave me a price for new turbos.

i was thinking of getting the rebuild kits and wastegate repair kits and having someone rebuild them for me. Is this not really a viable option?

So, two choices (assuming I don't want to put up with the rattle).

1. Pull turbo's out, have the wastegate rattle fixed with the kits you can order from the US. Might fit downpipes whilst I'm there.

2. Pull turbo's out and rebuild - what are the options here? Just rebuild to factory specs or get them upgraded?

Any suggestions are appreciated as I haven't really dealt with turbo issues before. I have access to a hoist so would likely pull the turbo's out myself.

A family member of mine is looking at buying a 335ci. It has a JB4 tune on it currently, which she isn't overly interested in. Have been in a stock one before and it is plenty fast. Just wondering if anyone knows about the uninstallation process? And if there are any potential consequences of having a car that was once tuned? Would one be better off to go for a car that hasn't been tuned? I have zero knowledge when it comes to tuning so any advice is appreciated.

Cheers

I believe my engine will be a m52b25 unsure if it's single vanos or what and unsure of how that will affect things but I think it does give an easy place to rap into for oil feed?

I also believe it' odb1 and I'm unsure if that increases or decreases tuning capabilitys

Biggest issue I see is the amount of room on the turbo side, the manifold is easily achievable as I've seen an ozzy flip the factory extractors to easily clear steering but then I'm wondering if any one has done this then what size downpipe did you fit and how? Also considered running a pipe to the other side but again room is limited. 

Another option I'm curious about is what type/style of superchargers will work easiest? I read about estima turbos working ok.  

Will be doing arp studs and a MLS gasket and injectors and bigger intake etc not rich so hoping to be able to use a rb25det turbo or a estima supercharger or something along those lines.

Sorry for the long post guys any help is much appreciated 

Since having the DPs installed, definately notice a performace improvement, but I immediately noticed the familiar wastegate rattle that drives me nutz!.  I understand that it's a wear and tear issue around the wastegate actuator arm bushing and in a perfect world would replace the turbo's or have them rebuilt.  I'm interested to know what others have done to try and resolve this issue.  The technician did note that my vacum lines look worn and thats a job for this weekend to sort. 

Could a vacum leak contribute to the WG not closing and hence the rattle?

Why would installing the DP immediately start the rattle when it wasn't there before?  less back pressure?

Appreciate any comments

As I am relatively new to modding and tuning I thought I'd better ask and see what sort of stage maps people are running with what mods.

Currently waiting on parts that i've bought online which are not the highest of quality but meet my budget.

Order list - 

• Dual Cone Intakes
• 6" Intercooler from NZKW
• VRSF Style Catless Downpipes
• BMS BOV Kit/Charge pipe
• Oil Catch Can

My questions are basically what MHD and xHP maps are people running on similar set ups? What maps do you think I should be running with this sort of set up? 

Also on a side note, what insurance companies are people with?

All opinions will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

I know some people are probably going to say its not worth it due to being a small engine but the car has sentimental value to me so I am willing to try do it despite power limitations. It won't be the fastest E46 but I want a bit more out of it.

Any other modifications other than Forced Induction will be helpful too.

So I bought a 2007 (Jan) 335i with 77ks on the clock in mid November 2016. I bought it from Queenstown after a mate gave it the once over. The price was right and overall it's very tidy. There are a couple of scratches but when it's sorted mechanically I will get them fixed. Interior is tidy with aluminium trim and being a coupe is has Msport seats and suspension. 

The drive from QT to Wellington was awesome, the car went well and while not as taut as my E46 the steering (active steering) was very nice and while not as weighty as the E46 it is a bit quicker and the feel is decent. The suspension is a bit softer than the Ohlins setup in the E46 but that is to be expected.

After a week I decided to get it serviced and booked into First Class European in Petone. They had serviced my E60 and E46 and on the whole they did a good job on those cars and the pricing was fair. The boss Sheldon is a very nice guy but to be honest when he is away I have less confidence in the staff. Unfortunately he broke his back and has only been at work part time.  After the service and intake port de carbon I picked up the car and on the first pedal the floor run the half engine light came on. As I was still close I took it back and they cleared the fault codes and off I went again, as you might guess I did it again. The code was the not uncommon 30FF. Which is a boost leak and or vacuum leak that results in a mismatch between actual vs predicted boost. When this happens the light comes on and boost is pretty much cut so its like driving without the turbos.  

The next service they went over it with a smoke machine to check for leaks and re installed the lastest software for the DME. They could find no boost leaks or vacuum leaks and their test said all ok. Same issue so back again.

This time they found a few pin holes in the intercooler so I got an aftermarket EMS unit. This did not fix the issue. They then subbed it out to another workshop to double check their work. They identified a faulty boost control solenoid. Aha that must have been the issue. But no. To be fair though when I picked it up on Friday it felt great in fact the acceleration was better than ever and on the first few full throttle runs the half engine light stayed off, Yeha! But alas driving through Whitemans valley in DS mode it came on again. Oil temp was 110c so not too hot. So back to square one.

So far they have checked the following that I know of:

• Vacuum Leaks
• Boost Leaks
• Wastegate solenoids.
• Charge pipe integrity.
• Diverter valves
• Software.
• There is no obvious wastegate rattle and at 80,000 kms there shouldn't be either. 

To be honest I am ready to give up on it and return to a more reliable car (brand of car) but like most people I now have an emotional attachment to the vehicle and to be fair it looks great and the chassis has some potential. If anyone else has has similar dilemmas I am certainly interested in what to do next.

Anyone bought this before?

http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/diypnp-bosch-55pin-unassembled-kit-p-385.html

Any problem with getting it in the country? (tax and etc...)

Also getting bunch of accessories with it.

Thanks

Selling the car as stock, grab yourself a bargain!!

Trademe listing below for anyone who is interested.

http://www.trademe.co.nz/electronics-photography/other-electronics/other/auction-1196711643.htm

Cheers

Mike