Does anyone know anywhere in Auckland that can diagnose if my ABS Module is at fault? I have had it scanned, which came up with a wheel speed sensor, replaced that sensor but still same issue. I've had some issues using Multimeter to test sensors from connector. 

Would be good to have someone that can check module directly before I look at paying to have module repaired ($450) or find a new replacement overseas and programmed for car.

Ta

One of my SLS struts on my touring has started to leak. Does anyone have any experience with shock re-builders in the auckland area? I'm looking specifically at these guys:

Suspension Tech: http://www.stech.co.nz/about-us/

Race Shock: https://raceshocks.co.nz/services.aspx

Autolign: http://www.autolign.co.nz/#

And yes I want to keep the SLS system. I don't want to swap it out.

Cheers

Eddy

trying to put together a list of parts needed to do an upgrade on the suspension on the E36 compact and would appreciate any advise thanks

The car drives really nice(prefer the feel of oem spring) but looks odd. Any other e46 owners, mechanics etc out there seen this before? 

Car hasn't had this issue before when springs where in there previously and has koni yellow shocks so is not likely a bung shock issue. 

Cheers

Ben 

I'm thinking of purchasing the garagistic adjustable subframe kit to install on my M535i subframe (and then install that in my 525e). Has anyone had any experience with these or similar kits?

https://store.garagistic.com/bmw-performance-parts/bmw-5-series-parts/Garagistic-e38-bmw-bushings-parts/Complete-camber-toe-correction-kit

I rebuilt the rear end on the E30 with new OEM trailing arm bushes, poly sub-frame and diff bushes. I also added a whiteline 16mm sway bar. It already sits on Bilstein shocks and springs lowered 30mm, although I’ve used additional 5mm spring pads to help clear the 16” wheels.

So I took it in for wheel alignment and I have  negative toe 3.5mm LH and 5mm RH.

Excessive front LH camber:

To complicate things there was excessive camber up front and regularly bottoming out. Thicker spring pads, new strut mounts and control arm bushes has sorted out the RH but LH is still a problem. I had a good look but nothing appears to be bent and shut lines and panels look straight.. Is it possible that the shaft in the shock is running untrue and needs rebuilding? Or any other ideas on what be going on?

Comments and advice appreciated.

My X5 is back in the shop again - got the brake light trifecta again. This is round 3(!) after previously having the ABS control unit repaired and then replaced after it failed again. 

But this time, after reversing out of a parking space and then moving off at low speed i noticed a juddering from the rear of the vehicle and resistance. Pulled over and turned it off, and then got off the main road. Was OK on the short drive home. Did it again then next time i did a short trip to the supermarket, but this time the brake system lights all activated and the judder stopped  

Nursed it in at low speed to Driscoll Motors this morning for them to look at.

The bit of reading I've done points to this maybe being ABS Master Cylinder rear release valve sticking 😕

Ideas? Anyone had this issue before?

It looks as though the ABS module on my sons 318ti may be toast - it's been scanned with a 5df5 control module internal failure. Are there any options to have it repaired / exchanged etc that are more economical than the $450 I've been quoted for a replacement ? I'm going to try cleaning the wheel sensors first, but I'm not too hopeful....

Thanks

Having the infamous trifecta lights coming up

First time came up a year ago and went away till recently. Now the lights stay on

Scanning the module I get 5DF5 internal failure. I took the abs module out and resolderred all the points that I could, made no difference 

I have heard a wheel sensor could also throw this fault, when I scan and read the data, they seem ok and I get individual wheel speed, as well as the steering angle reading 

Also, sometimes the lights come on after few hundreds meters of driving in which case the abs actually works when I slam on the brakes, 

Could this be anything other than the module? Also if going down the path of a new module, does it have to be exact same part number?  There are a lot of Ate units on ebay but they all have different numbers. Mine is a Ate asc unit, 6759075 on the controller and 6759073 on the pump. I know I have to program the Vin number but not sure if the part numbers have to be exact match or not

Any help will be appreciated 

Thanks

I'm toying with the idea of replacing the shocks on my 2000-Msport 540i at the moment it has the factory Sachs shocks in it.

Does anyone have any recommendations/experiences they could share?

I'm not looking for any performance gain or drop. Will be keeping the factory M-sport springs.

Anyone put the Koni Str-t's in the 540 or KYB's? Or should I just spend the money and go OEM Sachs?

Thanks in advance,

Adro.

I do have a complete rear end setup that i pulled out of an automatic 318i,  diff, wheels, crossmember etc that will almost be a bolt on replacement (i think)  but i was wondering if i need lvvta certification if im doing a brake drum to brake rotor swap...  the cars came from factory with both options.  I'd like to see the wof inspectors reaction when i bring it back in with rotors itead of drums.

Does anyone know if this will need cert?

Ive been trying to find the correct M3 LCAs for the 5 lug conversion for my rally build. The idea of buying new M3 LCAs had my eyes watering because I'm 99% sure I'll go through a few arms over the years. Was playing around in the garage last night and thought about adjusting the angle/position of the LCA bushing to fix the caster. Anyway stumbled across this this morning, seems like someone has beaten me to it. https://srs-concept.com/product/e30-bolt-on-5-lug-swap-caster-corrector/

Has anyone come across this before? or better yet used them?

Cheers

https://superpro.com.au/tradeview/

Where in NZ is best priced for brake replacement parts? Shipping ex USA is almost $200USD!

This might be a basic one to resolve, I'm a new E70 X5 owner so I wasn't schooled up on resetting all the service modules through the cluster.

Anyway, I changed the front brake pads and rotors and about 500kms later the front brake service mileage triggered. I've tried resetting through the cluster but it won't allow me (the reset prompt just disappears and reappears but doesn't reset) I've scrolled through many forums with the results saying you have to do the reset process a few times to work to replace the sensors. I've read that if the system thinks the sensors are worn then you have to replace them, however my question is if I have recently changed the pads then there shouldn't be any opportunity for the sensors to wear any further, therefore they shouldn't need to be changed.

To resolve the problem other replacing the sensors do I need a OBD tool to clear the service trigger to reset it? Or can I disconnect and reconnect the same sensors to trick the system to think that I have installed new sensors? 

Some insight would be appreciated. Thanks

The previous owner of my 325i E30 fitted extractors.  When I take left hand corners hard, the extractors hit the bottom steering knuckle.  It may hit in other places but it is very hard to see.  I can however see where the aluminium steering knuckle has been rubbing on the extractors.  I have checked the motor mounts and they seem fine.  Can someone provide some advice on the best way to fix this problem (slowing down is not an option).  The car is fitted with the factory steering rack and I do not want to change it at this stage.

Cheers.

Dean.

I took the car for a quick drive around the block, and that when I started noticing the issue. It felt like the power steering assist was "lagging behind" my steering wheel input. And it seemed to be getting worse as I drove, so I quickly went home and turned it off. I assumed it was just a leak at one of the banjo bolts, but they all looked fine. I noticed some fluid had managed to get out of the reservoir via the vent hole. The fluid looked cloudy with lots of tiny bubbles. Perhaps it's just air trapped in the system? I attempted to bleed the system again, but nothing changed. I left the car to sit so the air bubbles would clear out of the fluid.

After more testing, the steering is still very heavy when turned, but if turned and held at a position, the power assist seems to "catch up" and the steering wheel goes light again. Possibly the result of an "air spring" somewhere in the system? The power steering pump doesn't seem to make any noise, although it is hard to hear with only headers for an exhaust.

I ran out of time to work on the car, and left it for a few months.

Last weekend I started her up again, hoping the issue had magically resolved itself. It hadn't.

So I'm thinking the issue exists with the purple tag rack, or my custom AN line. I threw away the old high pressure line, I can't easily swap that out. I still have the old E36 rack though, so I could swap that back in. But before I go through all that effort, I wanted to ask the community for input. Has anyone seen P/S behaviour like this before? 

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Want a refresh. New rotors, pads, maybe even lines.

Would be keen on slotted (maybe drilled) rotors. Something that's coated so the centre section doesn't get all rust, my front rotors are not coated and look crap.

These look ok? Pretty cheap. Shipping is $200 but it doesn't get much cheaper from what I've seen...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/272401225748?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&fromMakeTrack=true
Wouldn't mind ceramic pads, my wheels are a massive pain to clean, but not if they make the brakes feel weak.

Does anyone know of a local guy who does these

Bosch 5.3 system, common in a lot of cars

I've got the car sitting on 195/50R15 Tyres, XYZ Coilovers wound down to roughly where I want them, the sump is 60mm off the ground. I know you can get cert under 100mm but I think this low is going to cause quite a few issues that I'm not yet aware of.
Options are;
Taller tyre, 195/55 or 205/50-15 but I think that will cause turning clearance issues plus additional width at guards which is marginal as well.
Raise the coilovers heights 10-15mm 
And both of the above?

Suggestions or current clearance heights with a LVTA cert?

I've recently just done a wheel alignment on my 640i, but after the alignment was done, my steering wheel is on an angle when the car drives straight, I find this very strange. :/  As I don't know much about the acceptable values of each adjustment, I've attached my wheel alignment sheet, I'm just wondering if anybody can tell me if these values look right? I also don't understand why the front camber is somewhat different between left and right. Any input would be helpful.  Cheers.