After discs and pads for E39 540i. 
 

Thanks.

have read this thread below, but not too sure if the pump ( Hydraulic) and and module (eletrci) need to be fixed / replaced together

note" after 3 hard stops when driving recnetly the pressure returned to the peddal, more or less as i wouldexpect it to feel. 

Does anyone here have experience with those? What's the quality like? I've got a good set of pads coming from the states so have that side of things covered. 

Other options are RDA from AU for $145 each, and Brembo for $200 each. I've got Repco looking into getting in some TRW's for somewhere around $150 each which would probably be my preferred quality/price balance but it seems like a long shot.

All the mainstream options like Meyle, Zimmermann etc cost double any of the above at minimum which seems excessive. 

Any pointers or thoughts would be much appreciated. 

Just purchased new front Bilstein B4's for 2002 NZ new 330i E46.  I purchased these from Demon Tweeks UK:

for vehicles with 'standard suspension' (not sports suspension).  I've installed the first one and the car now sits much higher the previously by about 30mm.  The shaft length is considerable longer on the Bilstein than the old Sachs.  Have I bought the wrong shocks?  Should I have bought:

I don't have option S226A listed when I do a Vin decode (NH45575).  The OEM shocks are Sachs 6Z Sports - were the NZ new 330i's fitted with a different 'sports' suspension at the time?

Thanks

Looking at a refresh of my suspension / dampers as I am assuming they are toast after 180km, (hard to know how bad they really are right?)

I've read a lot of international forum suspension posts, but interested in the 'local road' feedback and what everyone is running?

I'm trying to keep it affordable, simple and comfortable for a daily. Options that seem to be be most popular I am considering:

• Sachs OEM replacements (comfortable, but am I missing the opportunity to 'upgrade')
• Sachs with Eibach or Dinan springs (lowered car compromises?)
• Bilstein B12 kit AKA B6 dampers with Eibachs - apparently the B6 alone will raise the ride height - I don't want that. 
• Koni  (with maybe with Eibachs or Dinan Springs) - getting dearer 

Keen to hear anyones NZ experience / opinion. 

Cheers

If anyone can shed any light on this it would be appreciated, also for this car which version of the engine would it be? 135KW or the 160KW version.

Thanks,

I gotta replace my rear brake pads and rotors soon for my F20.

Any recommendation for quality yet inexpensive brand? 

I looked at ebay and found protex rotors and pads which i find it okay.

but I need advice from you guys.

Thanks

Going to rebuild these, new seals etc etc.  Some of the ceramic insulators on top of the pistons are starting to crumble, not horrifically but a couple are missing chunks. Cant really justify blowing 4-500 USD on stoptech/racebrakes stainless pistons, but new OEM ones might be an option?

I couldn't see a clutch / gearbox section so hope this is the right place.

Car is an E36 with Getrag

My car has been sitting for close to a year as I was doing an engine swap. Once the engine was back in I refitted the clutch slave into the gearbox and tried the clutch pedal. The pedal was rock hard. I checked the clutch slave and all looked good, so tried again. Eventually their was a bang and the pedal broke loose going right to the floor. I removed the slave and found it had blown apart and shot brake fluid everywhere.

Fast forward and I now have a different clutch and new slave cylinder. I've been trying to bleed the slave like I would on any car but it doesn't appear to be working. I get someone to hold down the pedal, release the fluid, close the bleeder, return pedal to normal, pump again and repeat. The pedal is very easy to press and doesn't feel like it's connected to/operating anything mechanical i.e. the clutch. When under the car the clutch slave hose moves but I can't hear any sign of the fork moving. My next step is to remove the slave while someone presses the pedal and observe if it's moving.

I'm starting to think the hard pedal was actually the master cylinder and the blown slave just the result of the sudden pressure surge when it broke free. Does anyone have any thoughts on any of the above or experience with this issue?

Cheers

1. Jamming something up against the brake pedal - does that actually stop the fluid from draining out the lines? I've never done it before, and don't want to clamp brake lines. Want to avoid having to do the ABS bleed procedure from taking calipers off.

2. Brake fluid - it's just a daily driver, I have some penrite Super Dot 4, will that suffice to top up the reservoir when i bleed the lines ? If there are specific BMW specifications that need  to be met, I can't seem to find them.

Cheers

Any recommendations on where to buy and what brand?

Cheers

So let's have a discussion and find a solution in this thread.

Can the E46 inner tie rods be used? On the E30? On the E36? With which other parts? With which mods? Etc.

Ive been trying to find the correct M3 LCAs for the 5 lug conversion for my rally build. The idea of buying new M3 LCAs had my eyes watering because I'm 99% sure I'll go through a few arms over the years. Was playing around in the garage last night and thought about adjusting the angle/position of the LCA bushing to fix the caster. Anyway stumbled across this this morning, seems like someone has beaten me to it. https://srs-concept.com/product/e30-bolt-on-5-lug-swap-caster-corrector/

Has anyone come across this before? or better yet used them?

Cheers

I have recently bought a 2009 E91 335i LCI M sport. 

Loving it so far! 

So the rear ride height is perfect, so I'd just like to lower the front 30 odd mm. 

Does anyone have any experience with the super low king springs? They are available in pairs, so would be perfect. 

I dont really want to touch the rear, just the front. 

Thanks in advance 

 So we are wondering what recommendations there are for raising the ride height, maybe 15mm or so? We could go with a step up in profile on the 17" (too soft?) or go 18" with higher profiles (still be good side walls?) or I have read there seems to be a variety of different shims/spacers that can be used to change the ride height?

Would appreciate any recommendations.

Ray

I'm looking at putting OEM M Sport suspension back on my 335i. When I bought it the previous owner had put on Monroe shocks and Dobi springs, but the car sits too low for me.

The previous owner included the 4 original M Sport shocks (I plan on getting them tested) with the car and they only have around 40,000kms on them. I've found some used Sport springs but I don't think they're off a 335.

So my question is whether there is any issue with putting MSport springs from an E90 which isn't a 335 on the car? Are they identical from factory or should I keep looking for some off a 335?

Thanks

Car has had the M3 rear camber arm upgrade taking the parts from an E90 M3 - this was done by a previous owner in Japan. 

Would anyone here know the standard length of an OEM M3 spring for an E90 Sedan? I have been struggling to find this information

I measured the springs that are currently in my car - they are 330 MM. I am hoping that my spring is a badly match lowering spring and that an OEM M3 spring will lift the rear 20MM or more to give it the travel it needs.

Recently i replaced the bump stops as they were buggered, one was missing and the other was hanging on by a thread. Since doing this it has lifted the car slightly but increased how often it bottomed out. The bump stops were the matching part for shock 3352228431001 which is on the car. As this is the correct OEM part i assume this is not cause of the issue. 

Can anything think of another reason what would cause this to bottom out? 

Pic 1 left is an Msport spring from a 135i ( i was told same as an 335i spring) and right, the spring in my car, same height but is significantly ticker / larger diameter 

Pic 2 M3 rear spring in car model 3352228431001

Pic 3 M3 caber arm

Msport suspension set up, don't mind going aftermarket if its better or cheaper. 

I'm toying with the idea of replacing the shocks on my 2000-Msport 540i at the moment it has the factory Sachs shocks in it.

Does anyone have any recommendations/experiences they could share?

I'm not looking for any performance gain or drop. Will be keeping the factory M-sport springs.

Anyone put the Koni Str-t's in the 540 or KYB's? Or should I just spend the money and go OEM Sachs?

Thanks in advance,

Adro.

Thought Id post some before and after pics of my new H&R Lowering springs fitted

I have spent much time trying to get to the bottom of why my E36 was leaning, changed shocks, had some bushes done all made no difference and never were going to make any difference to the ride hieght issues

1.Tried for OEM springs - only rears avalible at $558

2. Locally purchased springs all where going lower the car further than I wanted , plus a number of firms didnt even bother to call me back when trying to find something local

3. Looked overseas - all pretty much the same as what was avalible here , except for Turner motorsports H&R OE Sport Springs for 1995 E36 M3 .

https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-4343-hr-oe-sport-spring-set-e36-m3-1995-only-1996-99-with-additional-parts/

$247 us , $164 us postage and $194 NZ  for UPS here in NZ to sort out the customs side

Drop .7in in front and .3in in rear or 18mm front and 7.5mm in rear. , ended close at 13mm front and 5mm rear

4. Before LHS - worst side for my OCD, the front left was really pissing me off.

5. Pretty happy with ride height now and the imbalance is not so noticable to me anymore it is  still there and I do wonder why?, meh, I assume things still need to settle and it may even out. 

6. But not all went well at Manawatu BMW(not their fault) and the simple job turned into alittle nightmare. Approx 12mths ago I paid a suspension specialist in Palmy to fit new front Bilstien struts, they did . But they had according to Manawatu BMW crossed threaded the top nut and had most likely put it on with a rattle gun consequently the main shaft was striped in the 1.3 hrs it took to get it off. This the second issue I have had since the suspension specialisted worked on my car on that occasion. Taken to machinist who said , shock/strut needed to be pulled apart and the main shaft need to be rebuilt so a new thread could be done. Was going to cost over the price of a new bilstien replacement strut. So had to purchase a new strut, now need to approach said suspension specialist and try get some funds back - dont fancy my chances.

Would look at buying complete Left Strut if that was a preference, closer to CHCH the better.

looking to buy a B12 Pro Kit for a 95 m3 3.0. Prices are a real mixed bag out there and can’t seem to land for less than $1500, and that’s defore duty if they get stopped. 

Anyone had any success sourcing these for cheaper, or can recommend a better combo?

cheers

Something that works fine as a daily, not noisy, not that I care too much as its a noisy thing, but when I step on it, I want it to pull up better than it is currently.  It brakes straight at the moment, but I really do have to lean on it when it gets scary.

I havent thought about big brake kit upgrades at this stage

Cheers