Quick question here before I move it to Electrical.

Our little 1 series battery is on the way out.  It's currently not on hand to check the numbers.  But I am heading to Wellington today and would like to grab one for it.

All I have scribbled down in some notes is that it is currently 680CCA 75AH.  But I have no idea if it is AGM or not.

Anyone know if this car requires an AGM battery?

What is your recommended brands.  BMW wants a little too much for a standard battery.  $612.

It was the first time using the fob today and my wife reports that when she pressed the lock button the car would make a noise as if it were trying to lock. I have now tested it myself and I don't hear any noise at all now. 

Car model is 2007 525i and there is no model listed on the fob. 

My 2005 320i idrive won’t start or even unlock/ lock with my remote. 
 

it worked perfectly not even 5 hours ago but now won’t even start with key and push to start. 
 

An emblem of a steering wheel and a small lock comes on my dash when I try to start my vehicle but nothing else happens. My idrive console in the center boots up but goes blank, my dash lights work but my headlights don’t. 
 

very confused and sad, some help would be much appreciated.. 

cheers

My battery AH in INPA is reading at 70ah, but the battery i have is 74ah

When i went into ISTA+ to view for battery exhange there wasn't anything registered, so they probably replaced it but didn't register it

Anyway, i wanted to change 70ah -> 74ah in NCS Expert, followed the steps correctly (tripple checked across other people doing it on youtube)

F1->F3->e89->CAS->Execute job (to get work files) Changed PSW in .TRC file from 70ah to 74ah saved to .MAN, then basic funtion readfrom FSWPWS -> Change Job to Code -> Execute Job

Any way when it tries to code it i get this error

sgvt fehler coapi-1142 fehlerhaft

74ah ... etc

then the response is 'faulty coding' in NSC job status

is this not working because the ECU won't accept 74ah? will it only accept like 70,80,90 as per like inbuilt vehicle data, or is this another problem.

Cheers

The tires are one profile higher than spec, 235/45/17 rather than 235/40/17. 

However what I'm dealing with is 100km Road speed (GPS and SID Confirmed) is around 82kph on the speedo, 50 around 39ish... And while I've got a pretty good butometer, it's a bit of a pain in the ass glancing down at the GPS all the time to confirm speed. 

Is this somthing I can change in the ecu? Or do I need a pulse modifier on the wire somewhere, or a new sender, or a new cluster? 

Not sure if the battery is gone bad now and needs to be replaced or I need recharge it few times to resurrect it.

The battery is about 3-years old (Bosch DIN75)

Any tips of other hidden features I need to get decoded? 

On cars with infrared control the antenna for the central-locking system (FZV) is incorporated with the receiver into the interior rear view mirror, whereas the radio frequency receiver is part of the antenna amplifier which is installed in the left C-pillar.

In both instances the receiver produces a digital signal based on the transmitter command (IR vs. 315/433MHz) and sends it to the GM5 for processing. The GM5 then carries out all remote locking and opening features, along with the DWA arming/disarming functions. The one thing both locking systems have in common is the incoming signal at Pin#49 of the General Module unit (X253, 54-pin, black plug connector).

1) Antenna Amp w/ RF receiver

You must replace the antenna amplifier. There are 2 different frequencies used (315 MHz and 433 MHz) which vary from country to country. You must first determine which frequency you want. You could go either way but you probably want to make sure you are in compliance with federal requirements.

• # 65 25 6 906 074 433 MHz EU
• # 65 25 6 906 075 315 MHz US/JAP/CAN

I found a used 433 MHz Antenna Amp on ebay for about $30.

As a side note, you often find the older-style diversity Amp (99-01) featuring an extra co-axial connector for signal quality determination. I do not recommend getting one of these. People who upgrade their business radio later but have the old amp installed often discover degradation in radio reception quality until they also finally decide to replace the amp for a newer one. There are various threads on this issue across the boards if you're interested.

2) Matching Keys (diamond style 3-button key)

For this I didn’t go to the dealer but decided to take the DIY route which proved to be a lot cheaper:

I ordered two uncut EWS Remote Key 3 Button 433MHZ BMW HU92 key blade including virgin transponder chip and AK90 Key programmer, all for about $140 on ebay. The locksmith finally charged me $40 to cut both keys. You might be able to find an automotive locksmith that can also program the transponder for you.

3) Wiring

You need to run your own wiring harness from the Amp (connector X1143) to the GM5 and fuse box behind the glove compartment.

In a nutshell: On a sedan, you pop off the left rear seat side bolster and remove the front and back inner door sills to expose the carpet entry points. Then route your new harness alongside the existing one to the front of the car using some zip ties.

Parts needed:

• # 61 13 8 377 072 Universal socket housing, 3 POL.
• # 61 13 1 393 702 Terminal socket (0.2–0.5 mm²), come in 10-pack
• 10ft of 2-conductor stranded wire, 20AWG (0.5mm²)
• 2 scotchlok or quick-splice connectors

Cut both strands of your wire to same length and crimp a terminal to each end of the wire, only Pin#1 and #3 are needed. If you are lucky the amp will come with an old snipped off connector plug like mine did which you can reuse and save a bit of money.

Important: Disconnect the negative battery lead (ground cable) before tapping into the fuse box and GM5 unit!

I am not going into detail on how to locate and gain access to the GM5 or the back of the fuse box as there are plenty instructions available on the web. Using the scotch connectors, tab the wire coming from Pin#1 to the back of Fuse49 (Red/Violet wire). Pin#3 wire gets spliced to the wire at Pin#49 (Blue/Red wire) of plug connector X253 (middle one) at the GM5 module.

Be aware, there is another Blue/Red wire running inside the X253 harness, although slightly bigger in diameter. Best is to unplug the X253 from the GM5 and push the actual 54-pin connector out of its black housing to reveal the pin-outs which are all numbered. There is a small white tab securing the connector in its housing which you will need to slide out before. After you identified the correct Pin#49 you can wiggle on the wire and splice into the harness further up.

Note:

It’s probably a good idea to double-check your wiring to rule out any connectivity issues before putting everything back together. When you connect a meter to Pin#1 and one of the grounded T20 Torx screws of the Amp you should read +12V. Pin#3 should give you a reading of +5V. Check if the +5V drop slightly when pressing any button on the RF key fob, same goes for the IR key.

4) Key Programming

I noticed that upon completion of the retrofit you have to switch the ignition on and off briefly for the vehicle's electrical system to recognize the new components. After that you should be able to proceed with the standard BMW syncing procedure for the diamond-shaped key. The IR key will work as well as it should be still connected to the GM5.

5) Retro-fit Coding

This retrofit is not coding-relevant! You could add it to the VO of your car if it really matters to you but it will not make a difference in functionality. For the sake of completeness I used NCSExpert and added Option S874A RADIO FREQUENCY 434 MHZ and also removed S875A INFRARED REMOTE CONTROL – it didn’t make a difference at all.

All the other components that complete the RF system, such as the rear window antenna, trap circuit and EWS ring around the top of ignition cylinder for inductive charging are already installed by BMW. The electric trunk lock will also work with the new key.

Please let me know if you have any suggestions.

Thanks

😃and where is the top one supposed to be going I found the other end beginning to melt on the side of the block lol

E39 525i auto 2001

Thanks in advance.

Does anyone know how to go about getting this done?

TM takapuna mentioned I have a DVD model yet I don't have a slot for a DVD so not sure how that's going to work - the car is NZ new and originally purchased from JC so you'd think they'd know? Currently waiting on service/parts to get back to me - been waiting a week now, called them again this morning and still no answers.

Cheers
Callum

If the new DME with the m50 (1992) never had EWS and my chassis has EWS 2, will the wiring modification will be needed as the DME never had the feature in the first place? A lot of EWS bypass guides are showing EWS 2 Chassis with EWS 1 motor's etc but nothing about having no EWS at all.

I'm going on Holiday for a month and I'm trying to work out what to do with my 2009 135is.

A trickle charger is sadly not an option.

The battery is only a month old, will it be ok to sit for a month? Is it ok to disconnect the negative (the car will be outside so needs to be locked, would I need to leave the back seats down to then crawl though to unlock the boot on return) 

Or is my best option giving it to a friend to take on a 30+ min drive weekly?

Appreciate the advice. 

With INPA I can communicate with the k-line and get info on the keys etc, but not the CAN line to talk to the DME / ECU / engine module - whatever it's called. Also, my Foxwell scanner told me I have no CAN communication.

INPA tells me my key is ok but ECU is rejected because of the isn number / password (i.e. the rolling codes), but as I can not talk to the engine module I cannot reset this. (Also - the starter motor is blocked due to it not knowing that the trans is in park or neutral - which I am assuming is the sloe cause of it not cranking, because this info is not getting from the trans module through the DME).

I have been using the 20 pin connecter under the bonnet - I downloaded switching software to put my lead into CAN mode - have tried both Mike's and Bimmergeeks INPA download on a windows 10 and 7 machine, tried 2 leads - white and green circuit board, yes have bridged pins 7 and 8, replaced the battery and charged it, checked the fuses (pulled the carpet to check the ones under the seat), checked as many earth straps as I could find ...

So, help please.

Does anyone have a lead they know works with this vehicle that I can either borrow or buy to eliminate this as being the problem, as I've read they can make a difference.

It could be my DME is in fact fried - is there anyone who can bench test these? I'm happy to send the EWS and DME to someone for a check or re-sync and pay for time / skills.

The vehicle was apparently running fine (elderly couple so I trust them) until they left the lights on a couple of times in a row and had the vehicle jump started. So either the rolling codes or a fried module would both make sense.

Also: On the dash, the PRND lights are all lit up, and the temp gauge pegs to max. Could this be caused by the EWS not releasing the DME? Or not? What does / could it indicate?

Any advice on what else to check - I used to work as a mechanic so am happy pulling things off / apart, and can figure out which way up a multi-meter goes, but am pretty lost here and also admit to not being particularly computer savvy.

Have learnt a lot about BMW's lately but if anything I have said above makes no sense or shows I don't know what I'm on about please tell me.

I live close to Kaitaia - is there anyone familiar with INPA, or any other tools I may need I can bribe to visit me.

Basically I look at the car and go 'yeah, I know they don't sell for much and I'm probably wasting my money and time, but man that's a nice looking vehicle and gee it must be nice to drive. Be a shame to throw it away'.

Ta.

Bruce.

looking for advice on below.

im sure this has been talked about before (have done search and seen simialr post but here is my experience with sudden and random power drain(?)
Car wasworking sunday 8th not working monday 9th

• Only Changes on 8th were new drivers door seal. 
• . Jump start on 9th morning. Car holds charge for approx 6 hours. 
• Jump start again Took car for drive on 9th Boot Lid Open warning appeared. (this has appeared before and firmly closing boot resolves the warning)
• Talking to dealer about abbtery repacement and checking battery details when i notice Bluetooth connection available even when car off. 10th sept. Suspect GROM unit not switchng off whn it should - question reoans as to why this is the case?
• Removed grom unit on 10th. Plug mid back in. Take car for drive. Drives fine. 
• Car sat for 7 or 8 hours on 10th with Grom unit removed and held charge.
• Attempted to reinstall grom unit, car went flat during installation after from was plugged in. Removed grom again. 
• Re jump started the car. 
• CEL on. 3 codes, relating to ram error, injector bank 2. Codes cleared.
• Took car for drives runs strong no signs of issues related to CEL codes. Possibly result of battery going flat while mid was out.

I am yet to test the battery due to not having  multi meter but may call roadside assisit to test it for me as the do battery health report for jump starts...

it seems odd that the GROM unit would remain on for an extended period and be enough to drain the battery fully.

im guess ing the currenty battery is actually toast and also somethnig (?) is keeping the GROM unit on- all doors areclosing properly aside fomr the odd boot warning whic as above, firm closre removes the warning - can this remain an issue if no warning is reported by the car?

I have inspected the loom to the boot, the bitsi can see any way and it looks "ok"

Current focus is to use a multi-meter to check that there is a state change coming out of the clutch switch.

Do you have any other suggestions on solving this problem?

I’m no longer shouted at in Dutch when I hit the voice command button and the sound from the stereo is much better! Also nice that the Bluetooth volume isn’t at max anymore!

Tempted to have a remap which he can also arrange. 

 I think I've been too relaxed with the phantom/parasitic drain on the beater and have foobared a 3 or 4 year old battery. Going to try a rejuvenation cycle (or 5) but I have low expectations.

So, when looking for a new one... ?

Anywho full rebuild later (minor port and polish) and a decat and I'm getting a code. P1048 valvetronic servo motor voltage.

I've replaced the stepper motor. I was going to replace the eccentric shaft sensor but wanted to check there's nothing easier that could cause the issue, I.e a ground or fuse.

Any information is appreciated thanks 

😊 

Picture of my lady

I've got a BMW 335i 2008 with 81km, Sedan, stage 2 tune and mods.

Recently I've had a problem with my water pump not working and ends up over heating the car. With some research and looking at forums other BMW owners had the same problem, where car would over heat and big radiator fan would kick in. So I ended up changing the water pump and thermostat to a new one. Topped up with coolant and tried to do the blend process but water pump does not seem to come on. Also saw that someone had the same problem as me where he had new water pump and thermostat but water pump would not turn on, he ended up changing the fuse in the ECU box and it fixed his issue. I ended up opening the ECU box and finding out that the fuse has blown. So I rush down to the shop and grab a new fuse (exactly the same fuse) put it inside the same spot as before and instantly it blow. I've called my friend and told him the same story and he determined that its a short circuit somewhere in the wiring of the system something along the lines of some wire not being grounded that causes the problem. 

My question is does anyone know what many be causing this issue? and how would I fix this?

Any help would be much appreciated and welcomed as I've been trying to fix this for quite something now and completely lost.

Thanks 

I just want to open and close my soft top from the keyring....

Willing to pay a reasonable price.

Thanks.