Will it just be easier to buy an entire m50 exhaust system? 

Or how do i get around using this exhaust.

Cheers

I have a K+DCAN cable, ISTA -D and -P, NCS etc. all set up and working but I don't think these have the ability to do this, is that correct?

TIA. 

I tuned stage 2 on Tuesday, and for me personally, this is possibly the best "mod" I have made to the car.
Im on MHD1+, catted dp's etc. - and while the extra power is nice, it's not that usable all the time. 
The xhp tune however makes every aspect of driving the car better. Drive mode is sooo much smoother now.
Gone are the sometimes jolty changes with the car is cold. Every change is smoother and the shift points are better for me. I'll definitely be using less gass. 

Swapping to manual and the speed in changes is amazing! The car pulls off from a stop so surely now, no more sluggish feeling.
No more dropping to 1st by itself as im mid roundabout and making a racket. 
Throttle blipping on downshifts is glorious. 

No point in this post other to say, if you've been driving a e90 for a while and are really accustomed to it's nature, you'll notice a massive improvement with this flash. 

Should be delivered here at the workshop by Thursday from Aus. 

The engine was a M50B25nv converted into a M50B30 with S50US cams (and Vanos). My old ECU was from a M50B25nv and not compatible with a Vanos engine + because of the S50US cams I decided to by a Link G4+ Plugin for better tuning flexibility. Tuning was done by Graham Neal at WRC in Napier. Graham used the standard basemap Vanos On/Off RPM settings of 2500 On, 4500 Off. It would have been better to lock the Vanos off and do a full tune then do a second tune with the Vanos locked on. Then the two torque curves could be overlaid to see where they cross and those RPMs would be the best on/off points.

Considering the basemap for the Link is for a M50B25TU with everything stock there could be some differences in cam switching points considering I'm using S50US cams. I'm also using the S50 Euro headers and M50 inlet manifold. I'm not using the MAF with the Link only using MAP, TPS, IAT and engine temp. The current tune is based on this configuration but it was found the engine was running out of air and fuel starting from about 5700 rpm. I have new injectors and a bored throttle body (18% bigger) which will go on at the same time the maintenance is done. After this it will get a re-tune.

I briefly considered deleting the Vanos and locking the cams in full advance but think that will end up giving good midrange torque but nothing down low or up high - could be a disaster.

As already stated, the best method to find the optimum cam on/off RPMs is to do a dual tune but I'm hoping there might be someone who has experience with a similar setup who already knows what the best values would be and would be prepared to tell me. A dual tune is pretty expensive and I'm trying to avoid the extra cost.

At present when the Vanos turns on at 2500 you can feel a big change - I've been wondering how much lower the rpm value could be dropped to get the torque boost earlier. There's no noticeable change at 4500 when the Vanos switches off so this point could already be about right.

Any thoughts??

I have also read the maximum RPM should be limited if locking the Vanos on to avoid high RPM valve clearance issues. If the dual tune approach is taken and this is a real issue then does anyone know what the safe maximum RPM with Vanos on is? I suspect you could limit it to the point where the torque is less than the Vanos locked off RPM crossover - no point going past there anyway.

Brand noob here - sorry if this has been answered a billion times i did a search and although found stacks of knowledge, but I wanted to see if i can put it in some sort of order (at least in my mind);

Im toying with the idea if a 335i - but before i got stuck in wanted to get some thoughts from you guys;

I wanted to strike a balance between a fun, quick-ish car that will provide the back in your seat feel, whilst able to use it as a every day driver and where to stop to achieve this.

My shopping list looks like (Brand agnostic for some of these)  

- Dual Cones 

- Catless downpipes 

- FMIC

- JB4 (Looking at about 14psi??) 

Does this look about right for my purpose - or am i setting myself up for a few days a week of maintenance.

Thanks for the help and happy to clarify more if needed

thanks.

Reason for that is because when I checked underneath my car all the pipes look to be stock but it sounds louder than other 335s I know with the same MHD tune settings. And in MHD under both Oxygen Sensor and Oxygen Sensor Heater are incomplete. I've owned the car for a year and it's always been showing the same info.

I’ve just acquired a mint automatic E30 318 facelift coupe with a very ticky M40 and am wanting to swap in a m42 and Getrag 240 out of an E36 318. I understand the engine and gearbox bolt up to the M40 engine mounts/arms and I can use the loom and ECU from the E36. My question is regarding the prop-shaft and diff – Will either the e30 or e36 prop-shaft bolt in or will I need to source an E30 manual prop-shaft and am I correct in assuming that the E36 diff would be preferable? 
 

I’ve also read that I will need a E30is (M42) exhaust manifold – can anyone confirm if this is the case?
 

 I am also looking to do a coil on plug conversion from an M52, a AFM to MAF Conversion from an M44 and a single mass flywheel from an M20 as well as some sort of chip which is yet to be decided.
 

If anyone has done this conversion and can offer some advice or knows of a donor car for sale that would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers,
Shaun.

 

BTW he does a review in a later video and its pretty positive.

Have 3 options:

- M50b25

-M52b28

-M54b30

What i need to know is if my manual trandmission will bolt directly to these engines (believe its a getrag 240) and if i need to modify anything to help these engines fit in the engine bay.

Cheers

Online research indicates that it could be the Transmission sleeves have worn out but my mechanic suggest the best solution is to replace the Mechatronic Unit as the codes could imply my solenoids are worked up..

has anyone encountered this errors and what solutions have they applied that worked for them.

Thanks..

Cheers wayne 

Last question, my mechanic suggest me to use ELF 5W-50 race oil or should I just stick with Castrol 10W-60. Mind that my car will be driven on road most of the time but will be on track occasionally. 

UUC Engine Mounts + Transmission mount - http://store.uucmotorwerks.com/engine-mounts--transmission-mounts-package---oe-replacement-rubber-for-e36-e46-z3-z4-p1895.aspx
Driveshaft Center Mount - https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-bmw-parts/driveshaft-center-mount/26122282495/ 
CMP Stage 1 Reinforcement Plate - http://cmpautoengineering.com/product/cmp-ae-bmw-e46-3-series-subframe-mount-reinforcement-plates/

Im wanting to buy an aftermarket exhaust which is rated loud/aggressive, it says it fits a 325i and 330i, both are E90 and 2.5L. My 323i MSport is a E90 and 2.5L aswell, but my version is not listed on that exhaust... i was wondering if it would still fit since they are the same generation and same litres?

Decided to have some fun at a friends place, throw it around a paddock, do a skid, generally try and kill it before figuring out what to do with it. In the process, both wheels were lighting up, passenger side all the time, drivers side would skip in and out depending on the revs

So before I go investigating the diff, what's the bets its LSD, welded, or on it's way out? My bet - on it's way out 🤣🤣🤣🤣

Seems there are two fairly pricey options:

https://www.achillesmotorsports.com/Billet-Oil-Filter-Housing-BMW-M50-M52-S52-M54-S54-p/11-am-ofrh.htm

https://store.vacmotorsports.com/vac-billet-oil-filter-housing-racing-bmw-m50m52m54s50s52s54-p1417.aspx

I do have CNC access, so could potentially make one; but wondered if anyone else had gone down this path before.

Thanks in advance