Does anyone have experience with the Schroth Quick Fit Pro harness system?

http://www.schrothracing.com/tuning/quick-fit-pro/qfp-bmw

I know it's only a 4-point harness, but their anti-sub system gets good reviews. Seems like a 5th point can be added, but I'm not sure how that would work with standard seats.

Overall, it seems to me to be a good value ($300) upgrade that enables the use of a HANS device.

Anyone used one... or better yet... have one to sell?

James

i start to brake as i go under the lights hard , change down to 4 then 3 ,off the brake on the gas ,aim for the ripple strip and open up the wheel moving to the out side of the track . ......As per video .

am also practicing on my editing skills...........

please feel free to comment

First things first - TOE.

What is toe? Imagine standing upright , looking at your feet. Now imagine your feet are your front (or rear) wheels. Move your toes so they are pointing away from each other - this is toe-out. The opposite is toe-in.

Most cars come from the factory set up with a pretty 'normal' setup, meaning that they are pretty close to parallel. This is the recommended starting setting (parallel).

As a rule, toe-in creates stability at the expense of response, and toe-out enhances and sharpens response at the expense of outright stability.

Rear toe settings.

Most drifters tend to run with as close to parallel on the rear as possible - adding toe-in on the rear will make it harder to initiate (because the rear wil be more planted), and when grip is regained, it will do so quite suddenly. However, error on the side of toe-in is preferred as running rear toe-out wil make the car very jittery and difficult to drive with any confidence.

Front toe settings.

Front toe-in aids straight line stability at speed at the cost of slower turn in - and front toe out will make it twitchier at speed but turn in quicker. But going too far will end up making the car unstable at any kind of speed. If you go too far the car will become very snappy and difficult to drive - and thoroughly excessive toe settings on the front will mean that the front tyres are always on the verge of losing grip - again, not inspiring confidence and promoting the dreaded understeer. For a starting figure, look to be having about 1-2mm of toe-out, and you won't be far off (as a starting point).

--Body roll takes away camber.

--Beating body roll by dropping the car's center mass is a big win.

--Beating body roll with sway bars is not entirely a win. Sway bars reduce traction because they lift the inside tire. If you have plenty of rear traction, for example, then reduce body roll by tightening the rear bar. That way you're stealing traction from where you can afford it.

All information found is information on other sites and may not be completely accurate, correct me if its wrong.

The Taupo day just been the M3 was excellent on the track, had no oversteer probs at all except for when the tyres were cold which is understandable but had a tad bit of understeer which i resolved with more steering (as you do).

My question to you is, how can i eliminate this with out having a butterfly effect on everything else.

The current setup in the front is:

Bilstein adjustable ride height shocks.

Stupidly stiff Tein springs 800-900 pound (Competition use from what I'm told).

E36 factory modified bottom arms.

Enlarged Eibach Swaybar with solid bushes.

Alpina strut bar, can't imagine this does much other than stop my strut towers cracking further.

Underbody cross bar.

All new bushes etc.

New swaybar links as this car is a link killer.

Won't list the rear as the list will be twice as big, is there anything i can change, modify, replace etc that will cure a little of the understeer?

The car has also been seam welded some time in its life too.

Cheers.

Edit: Race slicks may be on the cards as well which I'm sure will improve.

Track Hampton

Suspension

Ireland Engineering front and rear sway bars

Front Ground control camber top plates 3.5degree neg and toe out to suit.

Rear 1.0degree neg

Springs

525 front

700 rear

Koni yellow race rebound adjustibles

Road

Rears wound down to full soft

Front wound to fullsoft then qauter turn up

Track

Rears wound right up then half turn down

Front wound right up then qauter turn down

Wheels/Tires

Road

18x8.5 BBS LM 2 piece forged wheels

Falken FK-452 225/35zR18

40psi

Track

17x8.0 BBS RC monoblock light weight wheels

Dunlop 240/625r17 D11 (9inch)

All around

25psi cold

31psi hot

Exhaust

Road

HSV dual 2 inch stainless center muffler and Remus e60 550i back box (Warrentible)

Track

Straight through pipe change out and Remus e60 550i back box (not road legal sound)

Electronics

Road

Stock

Track

RaceChrono GPS laptime / 7 inch touch screen

Log Notes:

After running the slicks at 25psi cold and backing off the rear suspension a tad after the installation of front and rear strut braces I have got my times down an extra second at Hampton to a 1:19.1

I have no noticed however that I'm pinching the rear tires under heavy brakeing. Im installing an adjustible bias valve to help compensate rear lockup. This is noticed more obviously around 1/2 a tank of fuel or less.

Turn in and stability is excellent.

Diff lock up is suffering a little with the road diff. I will try a new mixture of redline fluids before considering uprating the LSD.

Other problems I have noticed is the track ambient temprature was around 30 degrees C and my right front tire was starting overheat and melt on the center. I might have to try running a little less pressure in the FR.

After running the slicks the car had a minor problem of 'galloping' out of the corners as the suspension was fairly tight however installing the front and rear strut braces has stopped this.

Tire Wear

Lap Times