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Its been a while, I sold my E39 BMW 530i Motorsport around a year ago, bought a Nissan Skyline 370GT, which I have now traded on a 2007 E60 530i Motorsport (LCI Model)

some videos if you are bored dealing to a few fast cars

which levers and gearshifter parts did you use 4 or 6 cyl etc pics and part numbers will help

Hey gents (and ladies, if there are any), I actually signed up to bimmersport.co.nz in March 2016, but due to loooong working hours I really have not been on this site at all. We're originally from South Africa (migrated here in 2007) and we love NZ. Yes, we miss our families every day and SA, but we love it here, with Wellington's wind and all. I do, as I believe all/most people on here, love my BMW cars. I also love almost everything motorcar-related. When we lived in South Africa, my 1st BMW was a 1990 E30 325iS (South African 325iS comes with a 2.7L engine) which I sold for next to nothing, as I did not know that it was worth a lot more, hence the reason why the chap who bought it from me, grabbed it immediately without asking any questions. That's now water under the bridge. I then bought my 2nd BMW, a 1993 E36 325i auto. After it was stolen in Johannesburg, I bought a 1998 E36 328i manual, and I loved every second in that car. Sadly left it behind (sold it) when we moved here to NZ. Bought our 1st BMW here in early 2008, it was a 1995 E36 325i auto, then bought a 2005 E46 330i, then sold that and now I drive a 1995 E36 328i auto. I miss my 1990 E30, but my wife misses the E46 330. :-) My dream BMW would be the E30 333i box shape. Google them here: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/BMW_3_Series_(E30)#333i My current BMW started out as a normal E36 328 (first 2 pics), but have since had a make over (body only - see last 2 pics) with a Motorsport body kit (and side skirts, but don't have a pic of the full completion yet). Only wish I could afford to have it converted to manual...sigh...why are conversions and manual Beemers so expensive in NZ?

ok so my mates car std 318ti auto , brought for $400 a few years back with a blown headgasket . swapped out the 1.8l with a 2.8l from a donar car I had installed with a getrag 220 manual kit from a 320i . m50 manifold swap stock m52 headers , free flow custom exhaust with front cobys and some box at the back 3.64 medium case lsd diff and axles from a e30 m325i xyz coil over suspension msport sway bars strut brace at the front e36 m3 front brakes and front control arms bbs race wheels are 16" by 8" et 23 from a e38 fitted with 245/45-16" ? toyo 888 semi slicks also runs e46 msport staggered 17" alloys with 225 and 245 re003 bridgestone road tyres more recently just fitted the ESS susper charger kit from my old 328i coupe . tuned reflashed ecu by gavin bellar at hi velocity makes 166rwkw at 4.5lb boost car is stripped out weighs about 1150kg with a full tank was already very quick before the charger was fitted I think it had about 126rwkw some older videos of it going as well on my youtube chanel

Was awesome to be able to display it today at the 2017 V 4 & Rotary Nationals! Not quite ready for the drag racing tomorrow though.

Hi Allan, Thank you so much for your post! I agree with you 100% and from my experience shopping for used cars, people take appalling care of their cars and specially for older cars, are all too happy to say "Oh, it's an old car, you can't expect it to be in good condition!" A huge unfixed, rusting dent isn't "wear and tear." Engines gushing oil aren't in any kind of "good condition" etc... It's been a slog looking so far. I am simply looking for a car in decent starting out condition, with a relatively known history without any of the silly things people tend to do to cars... I take your point on tires, I saw one with 3 tires of one type and 1 of another. Just silly stuff. I always check all four tires and rims match now. Anyway, I suppose I am trying to say I am not looking for a car where I'll spend all my money on the car and have nothing left over for repairs, to the contrary. I want a nice platform to start from and build on for something I intend to keep for 10+ years to come.

Thank you for your post! I agree with you entirely on the colour aspect. Here is where that part comes from: We need a second car. My wife generally does not care what kind of car I get, I can basically get whatever I want, within our relatively generous budget. Her thing is that she doesn't care about much about the car, beyond "comfortable and looks nice" with that in mind, she has stated she dislikes black cars (and gold, but I don't think that will be an issue...) So, given I basically get to buy whatever I want, I don't see a problem with excluding black based on her preference there. I have no intention of buying on price alone. I do want to buy based on condition with an understanding I will certainly have to do some work on the car. I accept this. To assist with this, I very much want service history. Without that, it's a bit too much of a crapshoot really. There is only so much a PPI can find... PS. How much did them rear wheel bearings run you?

You probably are after a unicorn by stipulating what you have. I all honesty, I wouldn't discount the "right" car on its colour. Ours is Titan Silver, not a colour i would particularly have chosen if there was a choice. It has proven though to be the "right" car & you can get used to a colour. Definitely DO NOT buy on price, but the best you can get. As Allan alluded to - a badly maintained car can be a money pit. A car maintained with "proper" parts will serve you well. They are certainly higher maintanance than a comparable simplistic Jap car but would I swap - NUP! I've also had to replace all rear control arm links, rear wheel bearings, front sway bar links in the last couple of years

Precedent sets the intended meaning, ass covering doesn't. Alicia, i wreck all these earlier models, also fit new and used parts for customers when needed, however if by qualified you are looking for a piece of paper with my name on it then no i am not. my driveway of mine and customers cars might indicate otherwise though. Im happy to take a look, i am in Woburn so the closest person to you that has plenty of experience with your model, i only work on these older models. I would recommend not driving it at all at this stage, perhaps could come to you tomorrow if that works for you and at least see where we stand. i am working on a customers car this afternoon, have another one arriving tomorrow afternoon, but any time tomorrow would be fine. If it requires a professional i.e. head gasket failure which is above what i would do on a customers car, i can point you in the right direction, most of the time its something fairly simple on these cars

Hey Garett, Got an update for us all? Have you done anymore work on the engine?

To get dash to work was turning into a bit of a problem, all the sensors like water temp, oil light, alternator light are wired to the factory e46 DME plus theres the tacho. . To get around the problem I decided to still run the 4 cylinder DME, I removed anything that wasn't going to be used , leaving only the crank trigger, water sensor, oil pressure, alternator light and power supply. I made an extra bracket to mount the crank trigger at the front of the motor and pick up off the M60 crank pulley. I then started to wire in the M60 DMe and trans , ecu. It still have to mount the computers and wire in the P/S button, reverse lights, Park/ neutral starter lock out. And then move on to suspension and brakes But in the mean time it runs and can be driven.

Saw a cool NSX on our way down to buy it

Hi everyone This will be my third BMW after having an E30 318ci back in 2007, then an E39 528i, and now I've just got my hands on an M Sport E46 330i. Loving the car and am looking forward to bringing back to pristine condition. Cheers

Sorry about the delay - here's another pic or two from a recent Welly bimmer meetup.

Undercoats all done! After a few mods to the front and rear bumper, we did another quick test fit. Another problem we had was the original owner had completely destroyed the front valance due to cutting right through the middle. I wanted a much more subtle look so replaced the valance and just cut around the intercooler and piping, that way the guards and bumper could still clip on but it still had the bar along the front under the grill. As you can see here, we cut out the intercooler hole at the bottom and re-fibreglassed a lip around it to make it look better and pushing the air directly into it. Next step was to install a bar along the front to to stop any sagging along the middle.

This arrived today from Pelican interested in peoples opinions http://forums.pelicanparts.com/101-projects-discussion-forum-bmw-3-series/941366-top-10-greatest-bmws-what-do-you-think.html?utm_source=Pelican+Pit+Stop+Newsletter&utm_campaign=c9a67fc141-BMW_TOPTEN_1-12-2017&utm_medium=email&utm_term=0_e247719183-c9a67fc141-6840233