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Fired up the replacement engine in the 335i this afternoon! It's been a long and expensive road, so awesome to hear it running again after all this time, even if the exhaust wasn't bolted up ;-) Another evening or two of bolting things back on and I should be able to take her for a spin!

Orientblau is beautiful. I'm biased.

Visited Brent @BM WORLD and picked up a Sony unit which will do nicely. Much, much easier than faffing with rewiring, trimming, crimping and so on, and this one even has the original BMW connector on the leads.

Yeah, I kinda suspected it had one as it was so good at putting the power down through the twisty stuff...very seldomly saw the TC light come on when i was running MHD Stage 1.

Looks like the bonnet has has a fair share of resprays ... 6 different layers under the clear coat!!

I will do in a couple weeks time. Currently my leg is in a cast so not quite able to right now. If it's any help the shifter on the 265 is sheet metal as opposed to the 260 which is the aluminium rod type one. Also this hasn't been updated in a long while but a lot has happened on this car since my last post. They say pictures say a thousand words so here goes. Full coilovers front and rear. They still need some work, I need shorter springs to go as low as I'd like and keep the helpers. Currently the fronts are wound all the way down. Not looking to lay frame but a touch lower would be nice. The wheels are Remotec 16x8s, fully polished and painted by myself. The centers I did by doing a black base coat and then dusting silver over to do a shadow chrome type effect. The clear coat kind of messed up the silver and they came out darker than I wanted but fine for now. It's never perfect. I also got a new body which will be getting painted and everything will be swapped over which I hope do have done well before the end of the year.

According to @BreakMyWindow this is an member's car . ... and it does look very nice in anthracite. 2000 - with 145KMs on it and asking price of $28K ONO. Seems reasonable. Love the 2-tone leather interior.

How many smurfs dies to make those seats... Oh the humanity!

Nice car, but the lack of motorsport options make's it fairly undesirable imo. You would easily spend 2k on bumpers, paint, trim, and seats to bring it up to that level.

Yes I can imagine that'll be fun! Part of me still misses my old E46 328i even, it just had something about the way it handled, it was fun. Anyway BM Workshop says they have got my 335i back together and finished the long list of other stuff I requested. Should be ready to collect tomorrow and the bill will be... well let's not think about that Can't wait! They said I should treat it gently for a little while due to the engine work, and bring it back in ~1000km so they can do some checks. So it'll be a while before I can thrash it and arrange tuning. It'll feel so good to drive my 335i again, it's been over 2 months... By the way would I die if I eat nothing but rice for a month?

Sell your house instead. Problem solved.

Fixed up my vapour barrier seal drivers side rear door. Cleary someone went in there to fix something in the door, maybe window actuator, dunno... they left a neatly dried up section of butyl though, which leaked something fierce into the sills, though luckily not into the car just yet. That job was a pain videos make it seem simple and easy and the putting in is easy, but cleaning old butyl cord sucks. Took an hour just to clean butyl off one door. Cleaned up front passenger seatbelt which was moldy as anything.

Yes, the e30 m40 and m20 crank sensors should show 500-600 ohms across two pins. Mine was open circuit. I Jerry rigged my known good one from my 318 and baboom! Note that the later sensors on m52 and m54 i think are hall effect sensors and don't show same readings as i tried testing these as a comparison and they read like a failed e30 vr sensor

great work, Dave. someone told me the other day that a packet of smokes now costs over $25. unbeleivable - makes fueling a V8 seem cheap! keep up the good work!

tbh i think you should go for some nice 17's if possible and sell those 18s which look like replicas?

Koni adjustables for the rear and have the spring platform lowered 40mm and shock shaft cut the same. You can run the standard springs and set the shocks to med damping rate. Slot the trailing arm mounting points if your are concerned with the squat camber. This is the best set up I have tried and the E21 rear is an issue. You can buy all urethane bushes from the US or pour your own. The rear subframe carrier is soft as and with some hard Urethane poured in there makes quite a bit of difference. Shift the battery to the boot, make or buy a rear strut brace and battery holder..good to get as much weight back there as poss. The front is 323i struts as these are 45mm from memory and I run heavy duty KYB inserts with compressed King springs and this works well. 323i 23.5mm sway bar - there are 2 types of sway bar that match two types of control arms early and late. You can weld in bracing between the chasis rails at the front to stiffen it and a decent strut brace will help. I cast Urethane bushes for the control arms where the sway bar fits through and I purchased the sway bar bushes from Stocks. A decent set of 15 inch rims with correct offset (quite hard to find) and I have Kuhmo 205 50s. Probably want a power rack with the wider rubber ( rare as but they are around). Brakes..volvo 1980s 740 4 pots fit pretty easily and E30 rear calipers and discs are nearly bolt on. Handles and brakes good, sits about 50mm lower than stock, no rattles and best of all no shimmy at around 100! Good luck and get ready to spend some dosh and search the net for bits