Leaderboard

Something we have done with a couple of E30`s and an E34 is the M54B30 Conversion. What we can supply is: M54B30 with ancilliaries ZF Box E36 Arm MS43 DME with ews delete/manual/EU2 tune E30 pedal set with E46 Accelerator Drive by wire pedal. Necessary wiring. Not to dissimilar to an M52B28 conversion.

Hi there, just joined up .I have a 1977 bmw 728. Manual.thinking of restoring her. What do you guys reckon? I'm thinking parts will be extremely hard to find as it doesn't seem like there are many of these left?

I wouldn't wish this upon my worst enemy, replacing the fuse box should be easy... and it would be if BMW gave us a couple of inches of working room with the length of wires. As it is brute force is required and it's such a mess! Anyway, ECU repaired and fuse box replaced (box was actually damaged prior to my ownership - looks like the people that installed the alarm just yanked it out and broke it). Also, after more than two years I've finally had my bumper repainted. Not a bad colour match considering they didn't have the rest of the car ... still need some hardware to install all the ancillaries.

One of the members is looking for a Getrag box to suit an M20, his post can be found here, just made him aware of your post too so could work out for both of you.

I have some new OEM E36 bushes already pressed in the E36 lollipop arms if your interested ? Pm me

Has anyone previously had experience with recovering the E30 Tech 2 Steering Wheel Leather? Looking at doing mine but wondering who to go to also what leather is best. Pic of what I'm looking for Cheers

Did you manage to sort this? If you are in town come see me at Chch BMW and I'll give your keys ago to pair them

If a $5k repair bill scares you, an e60 M5 Is possibly not for you!

Wet the rear window with the door card removed and then open the door. You’ll see exactly where the water comes through between the foam and the metal of the door. Removing old butyl is such a c&nt of a job, I completely removed all of it from the foam and metal on the drivers back door. Sika mastic and a caulking gun made it easy to apply a new bead on the foam. I got lazy with the passenger back door. I tried just heating up the old butyl and sticking the foam back down. Still leaked. So i just applied some sika mastic along the bottom of where the foam joins to the metal. This seems to have done the trick because i spent about 4 hours cleaning old butyl off the other door and there was no way i cbf’d doing that again in this humidity. The sika mastic is white coloured but you can’t see it once the door card goes back on.

Welcome Nas from the Welly crew - how could you not need a M-car? Looks awesome and I bet that it's a bucket of fun!

Welcome mate. Clean looking car you have there! Next monthly Auckland meet will be the 7th Jan, Sunday (normally held first sundays of every month, but sometimes we can them at holiday times of the year) 761 Great South Road. Kyu who runs the cafe there will normally post in the meet thread if it's on or not.

Nice, looking forward to seeing it in person. http://bimmersport.co.nz/topic/49568-auckland-monthly-coffee-and-cars-meet/

1JZ would be super easy to do. Still I'd prob go S54, would be a fun machine either way. I've often thought a 4 cylinder better suits the E30 chassis, an nice Vtec engine would be a good unit, K24A or F20C

cant beat M52 for bang for buck, reliability, good power upgrade, light weight, easy swap, a million people done it so plenty of data on the internet what works and what doesnt. i can bang a conversion out in a weekend now once you have all the bits. Really comes down to budget, and i defiantley run with the school of thought while the motor (regardless of waht you put in) is out, change all the gaskets, seals, o rings, spark plugs, etc. If not everything then at the very least especially the stuff on the bottom like sump gaskets and rear main seal, timing cover that are hard to get to once the motor is in (again, regardless of the engine you choose. makes it a lot more enjoyable once finished if everything works as it should, doesnt leave a mess on your freinds driveways, etc. $5k will get you a fully certified M52/ZF swap including all the other stuff to think about

As much as I am not a big fan of and EGR system on a diesel engine, a system designed to improve test results in a laboratory but utterly crap in real-life application, I am even less of a fan of diesel remapping. Yes, it is very simple to get more power and even better fuel efficiency out of a diesel engine from a simple re-writing of the chip, the reason that the manufacturers didn't do that in the first place (you'd think they would if it was that simple right...) was to meet the emissions regulations. The whole injection cycle is carefully set to minimise a number of harmful emissions, not just the headline CO2 which everyone seems hung up on. EGR was originally developed to reduce Hydro-carbon (HC) emissions by recirculating un-burnt fuel, and had the side-effect of helping control the flame front and keep oxides of nitrogen (NOx) emissions down. Removing an EGR system completely and remapping will result in both of these emissions going off the chart. Technically removal of any emissions control system in NZ should cause the vehicle to fail a Warrant of Fitness test, now currently it is most likely you would get picked up on the fact that your car has no EGR and a re-map, but the planned future changes to emissions testing would probably make that evident.

Mammoth task I know but I've always wondered how one of these V10's would go in the E38 chassis.