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Right, spent half the day on getting the drivetrain and subframe bolted up. Damn hot today, even the tools were cooking in the sun. Stripped out the old loom and used the one provided by the new donor engine. Need to de-loom the JB4 and assorted 2step and stuff and bring this to the fresher loom. Manifold fits well, its tight-ish in many places. Likewise the wastegate seems really tight. Look like I'll remove a few sundry brackets from the area to get more clearance. Further chopped away at the engine cover to fit both around turbine & comp. housing. Installed the BMS water supply in/out in 6AN I think, and oil supply in 4AN and drain fittings ordered in 10AN. Blocked off one water supply & return. Big air filter fits well, about 10mm clearance around it to the underside of the hood. Bought me a BMS shirt shift kit and some other billet linkage kit. Ill detail that next time. I can get the oil & water lines ordered this week, likewise drain line. Re-fit both front struts and torque check every bolt/nut. Working out how the exhaust turbo back down pipe likewise how/where the wastegate dump will work should be a challenge. Bring it on... Just need to relocate the radiator reservoir tank and PS tank and we almost there. Here is the ECU fix I undertook capably as a cripple. Issue was noted when a super sweet 2 step backfire in the waterview tunnel then made the car a little odd, some minor fuel fluctuations. JB4 read that there was no signal from bank 1 O2 sensor. Yet the replaced sensor also didn't work. Guessing not the sensor. Opened up the ECU and changed the MOSFET that read as open circuit, which, 'blow me down with a barge pole' powered bank 1 O2 sensor. Sweet fix man! I ended up changing all the other MOSFETS while I was there. Cost about $4 each. I used automotive grade ones, for high temps etc. Slightly higher in spec than the factory ones which are notorious for being sh*t in the stock DME/ECU. I removed also the clutch delay valve which peeps say is a good investment. Basically its a bored out factory one with a larger internal bore diameter.

About the same as my E39 on my highway commute. Shorter final drive option and speeding don't help, i can tell you that much. Other things: Check for vacuum leaks, clean maf, good t-stat, test\replace old O2 sensors, clean injectors, Im sure good vanos seals and DISA valve help also.

So I pulled the trigger. Artic white Msport 535i with black leather Adaptive M sport suspension Panoramic sunroof Active steering etc love it ?

Genuine JCW recaro leather seats with adaptor bracket. direct bolt onto stock mini rails. Airbags and sensors all included on seats, mint condition Requires NCS Expert coding when you install these. Will happily provide some guidance but I will not program your car for you! Basically just an option code coding. $3500

This won’t happen until someone becomes a FCP affiliate here. In saying that, I don’t know how well the notion of lifetime replacements will work here from an economic perspective. Maybe ECS Tuning affiliate would be the ticket.

http://www.carly-shop-au.com/checkout-shop/shopping-cart/ here Pete

Well, they can't do anything about the GST but BMW's margins are a joke, only for the gullible or naive. The problem is a rising tide lifts all boats. A "specialist" wanted NZ$200 for a used one with over 140k kms on it. How about $50 (or a 100k warranty)?

SOLD

Ordered + shroud and fan ? $525 nz, tax still to add When do you think NZ companies will wake up

Vanos seals are worth doing. Use good quality oil and filters, and regular oil changes. Check for vacuum leaks.

Haven’t actually had it dynoed but was told by the engine builder to expect somewhere round the 200-220 hp not massive but enough for some fun especially in a light weight car

Hey guys my name is jason, new to the bimmer forum but have had my e30 coupe for a few years now bought it as a rolling body and decided to go a different route than most, got a 12a Bridgeport race engine built and is now installed car is all complied but is currently completely stripped getting a bare metal respray

Good choice and yes, you can keep the tyres you have on the rear until they need replacing. Always just make sure the tyres on the same axle match up (i.e. front to front and rear to rear).

Essentially a reliable lump, hardly even tickled when married to an auto box. You've done most of the cooling system which is really the only thing that goes "bang" on these with no warning. Might have paid to do the hoses at the same time but just give them a good clean and visual inspection and replace them when you next do the coolant. If you're still using the original plastic thermostat housing you'll want to replace that also - either with another stock one or an aluminium aftermarket version (opinions vary).

I did the same on my 135i, switched from the run flats to pilot sport 4's. Best decision ever, rides so much better. Also i haven't seen the traction control light up once since switching over. Grip is phenomenal, especially in the wet. No regrets at all

at the time i bought the bbs wheels for the 535 i paid a lot more than that!They werent style 5s but i would have paid the same for those

Not bad for the price tho! As you say, worth a LOT more once some lucky punter puts some work into them. fact that there’s 5, not the usual 4, is a bonus, too. And tyres! starting to think should have listed them for a whole lot more..........

So agree Allan, check this out i used the OBC function to check the temp against the gauge its miles out. Needle half way temp 81.

Finally got the car WOF'd and Reg'd....such a great feeling to be able to drive this car. The drive is unreal, the power delivery is smooth and you don't feel the need to drive it hard. Cruising in it with the exhaust note and the strange looks you get from people not expecting the v8 sound from such a small car. Couldn't be happier, spent 3 or 4 hours with a friend getting some good photos and video footage, here is a few from the massive selection that he took. enjoy.

Meh, quick test fit with subframe out. Its a snug fit without being tight anywhere. Probably 15mm the closest to anything, so decent heat dissipation. I'm not expecting much lag. I'm planning to push the refreshed stock block and see where we get to. I'm thinking around abouts like this one, which has the same sized hairdrier; The turbo size aint too far different from my little 2 litre 4 banger in my Mk 1 Celica...

I second the prior post, if I’d the money I’d be mad keen on a classic that looks this well kept.

May I ask why you’re looking at parting it out? It seems like a pretty good car, so unless I’m missing something I see no reason to part it out,

In the UK petrol and diesel cars will be banned from 2040, and in France by 2030. I better hurry up and finish my project car or it will be banned a week after its first drive.