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just in response to this, its a continuously variable system, it is not Off or On like some other manufacturers at this age. Correct oil is 10W40, I use Penrite, but really any brand name will do. Some swear by Castrol for no reason other than thats what BMW etched into the filler cap 20 years ago.

fuel economy gain is marginal at best. as I said above, if this is the objective as is the OPs question, you are waiting your time. Parts alone will take you a long time to recover from your fuel saving, and when you do you will be back to having destroyed seals, not to mention if you have to pay someone to install. Also there is zero mechanical damage that can result because of not tending to them, unlike most other areas on the motor that fit the OPs objective better.

if it is just a daily etc don't worry about vanos seals. Correct that they have probably failed, but the expense is not worth replacing, them even when DIY, if your only gain is to be fuel economy. A bit different if you like to throw around on a back road or on a track etc.

Ari, most of the posts above are not relevant to you so don't let them lead you astray. I can tell from your posts you are on the right track. I have done an M52 into an E30 (externally dimensionally identical to the M50 as far as your question is concerned), using a G240 box from an M40, unlike the other people posting. You need to use all E30 320i gear, driveshaft and shifters as well. upgrading the rear axles is of course also a good idea tho beyond the scope of your question. since flywheel came up above, I used a shaved M20 flywheel, clutch, throwout bearing etc setup in my conversion. everything behind the end of the crank should be M20/M40 stuff if you want to use that box. M20 G240 does not bolt up properly to M5x motors and will be on a lean. It is a cheapskate bodge that doesn't last. PM or call me if you need.

you mean.. (e30 tax)

Absolutely beautiful. Tempting!!!!

Brand new Karbonius CSL carbon door panel inserts in 1x1 carbon weave. I can honestly say these are as good if not better than the genuine article. Perfect fitment and weave pattern and stronger construction than the real thing. Made of Prepreg carbon vacuum packed and autoclave cured. Very strong. ***BARE CARBON DOOR INSERT PANELS ONLY *** ****NO door handles or door cards included**** NO mounting hardware included*** - ALL YOU GET ARE THE CARBON PANEL INSERTS WITHOUT THE GENUINE CSL DOOR HANDLES SEEN IN THE PHOTOS**** The weave on these are so good that if you placed a genuine CSL door panel next to it you would struggle to tell them apart - see last photo illustrating this. These are not off the shelf items and are made to order only from karbonius. Very rare. Genuine CSL door panels are $8000 EACH!! So it?s $32,000 just for the door panels - And there are none in stock at all. $3000 firm. Compared to the genuine csl panel (front bare panel pictured below is a really old genuine csl carbon door panel - has slight yellowing already) as you can see the Karbonius (the rear panel - top one) is a perfect match

I originally missed out on buying this Touring when it came up for sale in October (and settled for this instead). It sold within a couple of hours of it being listed on Trademe to a friend of the seller, despite the seller promising me the car was mine after I had negotiated to buy it sight unseen... To my surprise it came back up for sale on Trademe just before Christmas. Once again I pounced, and this time I was successful in acquiring it. So, the car: NZ New E46 330i Motorsport Touring (1 of 4 NZ New examples so I am told). Sapphire Black. 207km. Facelift. Leather electric seats. No mods other than the TSW Valencia wheels (great fitment but not my taste...will be changed in due course). The seller had mentioned that the shocks were due for replacement, and this was confirmed on the first Auckland to Coromandel drive over the new year break. Compared to my lower km E46 325i MSport, the car lacked dampening and felt considerably harsher (partially due to the 18" wheel/tyre combination). A set of adjustable Koni Sport shocks have been ordered to tighten things up and provide rebound adjustability if and when so desired. After that, a set of Style 68's or other OEM BMW wheels will replace the TSW's. Cosmetically the car is in great condition given the mileage. I have started a deep leather clean and condition on the interior (Pears soap method) which is lifting an unbelievable amount of grime from the leather. A time consuming process, but ultimately worth it!

Hi all As you may have guessed - I have just joined the group. I run a 2008 BMW 135i, N54 twin turbo with Stage 1 tune.I also own a Toyota MR2 Turbo for clubsport purposes, and am a member of the Harbour Capital Car Club. I previously owned a stock-standard 2002 BMW 330i for about 7 years. In between the two BMWs I suffered through an Audi S4 - until I came to my senses and saw that the repair bills were not going to stop. Before those three, I owned a WRX STi v3 - a fantastic car that I managed to dry-sump around an autocross track, with horrendous consequences! I have also owned - among others - two Toyota TownAces, a Commodore wagon, an Austin 1800 Land Crab (really), and a Mark 1 Escort - which was great fun. I'm now back again with a small RWD car that has enough grunt to keep me interested. My purpose in joining this group is to find out more about the forum and about my car, and hopefully to join with others on runs and non-competitive events around the Wellington area. I am also a member of some Facebook groups that focus on 135i/335i vehicles and N54 engines. I look forward to learning more about this forum over the coming months and years. Talk again soon. :-)

Might be of interest to someone? https://www.ebay.com/itm/122858150809?rmvSB=true

come on buttercup it was supposed to be offensively funny, its nothing you wouldn't laugh at on family guy or south park. I f you or your friends havn't called someone gay in your own conversations then your obviously gay

+1 on Penrite. Buying the 20L drums of it s a very economical way of buying good oil.

So Richard, spill the beans!! If you need a hand (second pair of eyes) to look over it, let me know Barry

good idea, worth a shot maybe, though people usually don't update the details of their plate if it is sold/purchased, and they probably aren't supposed to tell you either. Privacy laws, for better or for worse, prevent this sort of thing from occurring.

Thought the article was a bit off myself. Brave enough to say that after somebody else.

That Vin shows the following: Feb 1986 build date. NZ New or maybe UK import etc, not a Jap or SA car anyways. 3.46 Medium case, used on both the 325i and the 325e if the tag doesn't say 3,46 then it may say "45 13" The later diff showing post September 1986 is 3.64 (much more common 325i ratio), tag may also say "40 11" if it shows any other series of 4 numbers, you take the first two and put it over the second two and that will give you the ratio. However as Grant says above, best is still to rotate the drive shaft and count the rotations. use a chalk mark on the input and BOTH outputs, yes even tho LSD the two outputs may spin at different ratios as the LSD is unlikely to still be working at this age. Hope this helps

I really want this car mostly because of the milage, I am always interested in cars about 400,000km (except for my Hiace I took to well past that). I hope you can't sell it and it has to end up in my drive for bugger all.

Yea, each to their own, I've done the vanos seals on all my beemers, and its always been an improvement each time. Smoother, more low down power, better on fuel.

if its not the incorrect oil volume because the filler hole is in the wrong place, or the inadequate pickup of oil, or the fact its not rated for the torque, it is the shifter breaking because its either on the piss, or been cut and welded and no longer geometrically correct and therefore flexing every time that it gets used. Its a bodge. Although using the M40 box is a bodge too, just not quite so bad, as at least it is only the fact its not rated for the torque you have to worry about, the rest is okay.

Seems interesting how well his use of language aligns with his views, using gay as a derogatory terms immediately marks him as a bit backward, angry, and somewhat uneducated. Reading the article certainly doesn't change that view of him based on his EV views! Not that the EV bloke sounds like much of a winner either...

Progression of this has been awesome, pls don't sell!

Forgot to mention I also changed the trans fluid and filter. "jatco jerk" remained so manual swap is on the cards. I've done an electric fan conversion on my E30 M52 swap, clears up so much room. Not a bad idea on this as well, cheers. Might look into vanos seals mid-term. Doesn't seem to be giving me trouble right now. Any way to see if it's working as it should? Doesn't seem to be any noticeable crossovers etc. Do you have a preferred engine oil? If it doesn't cause too much pain, care to share the consequences of the pulleys giving up?

Hi, bit of a long shot, but would you consider an ‘85 318i E30 manual trade + cash?

Pre xmas track day pics. E46 front arms have gone in and pick up points for front sway bars have been changed since then. Just need to roll guards and do another test day at Taupo to dial it in. Car may be coming up for sale in the near future if anyone is interested.

depends where you take it etc approx. $300-400 for the inspection plus what ever they find worn ,faulty etc , brakes , suspension joints , tyres , lights etc rust ?? plus 200-300 for new plates and rego etc but be careful if it has had any major past body/chassis damage etc if they see anything like that , will require a engineers report etc , and a engineer will only sign it off if he sees it all stripped back etc I would want to get it up on a hoist to inspect it 1st or at least up on jack stands and go under it with a bright light pull back boot carpets , wheel arch liners etc good luck

Has the oil been changed?