Leaderboard

Hey guys, welcome to my new E36 project. I haven't ever created a project log as I've never really had a car for long enough.. This car is a 1995 Pre-facelift 328i E36 factory manual NZ new coupe. She has done 260,000kms but has a fair bit of service history and has been well looked after so I'm confident that it's a good starting point. My plan for it initially is to service, modify and refine it. I won't be doing anything too drastic as it is my daily driver at this stage. The plan after that is to start stripping it out and making it a road/track car i.e half cage, semi-slicks, LSD, 330 brakes etc etc etc. The idea in a nutshell is to have a car which I can drive on the street and have it still be relatively functional but also use on the track on the odd weekend and be able to drive it home- no trailer. That's all for now, keep your eyes peeled for updates. Although this is E36 #15 for me, I should be keeping it a while this time.. Time to commit! *Oh! And it has NOS by the way.. more on that later My to-do list with prices is as follows. Some of these mods will be fairly long term goals and may not happen. I don't see many prices put against parts for other build threads so hopefully this will be useful for people looking to do something similar to this. Engine: -'230hp' DME upgrade with EWS delete, ABS fix, 7000 rpm rev limited and rev hang fix. $250 (Mates rates) -Cat/schrick cams -M3 headers -M50 manifold -Waterpump with steel impeller -Rebuild head. P&P if there are significant benefits, lap valves, new valve stem seals, head gasket, head bolts etc -Clutch fan delete -Aux fan install -Engine mounts -New rear main seal $55 -Beisan Systems Vanos rebuild -New NGK spark plugs $58.50 -Oil change+ filter About $100 -Fuel filter -Diff oil -Replace any perished vacuum lines etc -Clean ICV and PCV -Plastic rocker cover $80 -New rocker cover gasket $105 -Fenix radiator -Sump gasket -Fill NOS bottle Sold NOS kit Drivetrain: -New slave and master cylinder -Braided clutch line -New guibo -Gearbox mounts (Powerflex/Nolathane) -Single mass light-weight flywheel and heavy duty clutch disk and pressure plate $1250 -Rebuild shifter linkages -Z3 short shifter -ZHP gearknob $150 -Gearbox fluid change About $20. Used half of the $40 bottle -Replace center bearing -KBM/ second-hand medium case LSD Brakes: -E46 330 front calipers $250 including rotors. -E46 328 rear calipers $60 -Stoptech/Goodridge braided brake lines -Pagid/EBC yellowstuff pads -Slotted rotors all round Suspension, bracing, steering: -New E36 standard front control arms $310 -Powerflex M3 3.0 Offset LCABs $130 -Powerflex RTABs $130 -Convertible X-brace $215 with nutserts. -Powerflex rear subframe mounting bushes -Ultra Racing strut braces F+R -Nolathane Sway-bar bushes F+R -XYZ/BC gold coilovers $870 -Powerflex camber arms $400 -Front and rear strut tower reinforcement plates Interior: -Remove rear front and rear seats, carpet and sound deadening. -Remove headunit, sub and amp. -NZKW bucket seats, rails and subframe brackets $1000 for 2nd hand Racetech RT1000s with NZKW subframes. -Mtech 2 Steering wheel -Remove boot trims, linings and spare wheel -Infill plates for drivers and passenger foot well. -Tidy up wiring and remove SRS -Tidy up door cards (Already pretty good) Sold complete interior for $500 Body and cosmetic: -Fancy wide rear diffuser or similar -GT front lip -PDR for significant dents -Gas struts for bonnet and boot $50 -Replace door handle rubber seals -Replace rear vent window weather strip rubber -Replace windscreen plastic cowl Wheels and tyres: -TBC. Currently have a square set of 7.5' style 24s. Likely to keep these as my street wheels and buy a relatively cheap set of 17x8s with usable semi-slicks. Replaced with BBS RK 17x8 -2x Half worn Dunlop semi-slicks for front wheels- $36 from TradeMe Exhaust: -TBC. SS mid-section and rear if budget permits.. Most likely a cheaper 2-1 from headers to mid-section, resonator and off the shelf 'euro' style muffler.

Fun fact: who knew there are two different sized center sliding trays for the e46..? I bought the cup holders and coin tray a while back, then the longer slider as a replacement option recently Untitled by Christian Taylor, on Flickr Here’s the longer slider installed (standard seats and ZCP weighed gearknob back in now too): Untitled by Christian Taylor, on Flickr I am keeping the armrest-less console and carbon interior trim as it looks good and is a pain in the ass to change around the door handles. Same with the alcantara hand brake handle. I also picked up a couple of OEM air filters for when I swap K&N 57-series intake back to the standard airbox.

From what you say there would appear to be a voltage issue. Take it to an auto sparky & get it checked properly

yes control arm bushings get e34 m5 ones or e32 750 to replace.Its an E34 "thing"

OLAF your wish has been granted. look in projects for twin e34

Adding to - Bars Bugs is known to eat the washer pumps too. Had the E39 one fail @ about 6 yrs. Was told by the parts guy @ CJ that Bars Bugs causes pump failure. Replacement unit been on since & all good - been using BMW fluid

So this morning, after a knock on the door from the courier, I did this to my 2002 (LCI) e46 325i Touring: The reason I got these was: A 16 year-old Original Equipment LHS front indicator unit this morning, looking a bit foggy and worse for wear. PN 63137165847 A 16 year-old Original Equipment RHS front indicator unit this morning, looking slightly foggy and impact damaged. PN 63137165848 These were 18 Euro each (NZD29) for the TYC units (which are German TÜV approved), and eliminating the condensation and cracking keeps my car legal, so it won't have any WoF issues. The part numbers (2001-2005) are different from the US market ones. for info: RH= 63137165848 LH= 63137165847 I chose aftermarket (for a change), rather than Original Equipment, or the OEM option... these were cheap enough that I could have them lobbed in to the box with my new Steering Coupler. Which I purchased abroad as the $60 saving paid for these two indicator housings. Though I like to support our local dealers and BMW NZ, I just couldn't swing it on this occasion. Now to sort out e-torx socket for the steering coupler (steering guibo), and fit that.

Yeah, I find the BMW washer fluid good. I used to use Bars Bugs. And I've used a few others, like Castrol, Peak, some Supercheap house brand, and years ago I even tried Rain-X washer fluid. I was sticking with Bars Bugs, but found the chaff in my washer bottle less than ideal. A mechanic I used to use added some in a service, he reckoned it just worked better. With the BMW fluid you just run it down till the light comes on, then knock the top off the bottle and pour the whole lot in, then fill with clean water. Job done, till next time. I buy the BMW fluid by the ten or so, just put em in my workshop, and always keep a couple in the boot. Easy. I think they're less than $4 per bottle, from memory. So yes, it's more pricey than Bars Bugs, but it works better. And there's no webbing. It also has a nice lemon scent YMMV.

Yes, I'm aware of that.