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We can make you one.

39792421-2509-4A75-8C04-3D295CC4DD52.mp4

118 - 1235 kg unladen. N46 & Trans 179kg M3 - 1600 kg unladen. S65 & DCT 243 kg Overall aprox. 200kg lighter With tune and cat delete/lightweight exhaust should be aprox. 440hp Next dyno day will give us some figures. Sidenote: DCT will give at least a car length gain on a Manual with each gear change.

If you can tighten the bolt tight enough it might be able to be used to release the tension on the tensioner. If not, your tensioner might be faulty?

Installed an Apexi Neo AFC to dial in some fuel corrections today. Making good power before the tune, peak of 177rwkw, but the low end was a bit poor so the tuner put in some more fuel down low and got a decent 10rwkw gain through most of the low to mid range! Now with a peak of 178.1 rwkw, so very pleased. Certainly pulls well in the lower rpm band.

Did a trial fitment of a set of Ergen Headers which are fabricated for M60/62 or S62 E30. The intention is to fit them to 8M3 in place of the restrictive factory headers. Our spare S62 had the privilege of posing next to 8M3 with the Ergen headers on.

Hearsay!

Is it true you own, or have owned, one set of every style BMW wheel ever manufactured?

Mine is the original on the left, and the OEM replacement on the right. Can you post a picture of yours? I have seem a technique on youtube where you stick a star socket onto the pulley and turn. If you have no bolt... maybe that?

Stick a shallow socket onto the 'bolt' built into the tensioner in the picture attached and turn. I forget what it is, but it's a regular size, maybe 16mm? EDIT: Oh, yours don't look like these eh. Yeah, you be screwed.

Can you get a spanner onto #7?

The guy that makes those kits was on this forum, before he got banned. His kits have numerous problems, and I have not heard of even one working properly yet.

https://vorshlag-store.com/products/vorshlag-e46-competition-steering-shaft-assembly

swap in a s54

https://www.whichcar.com.au/features/aussies-engineer-a-v8-powered-bmw-1-series

I enjoy being a grumpy old man, I thrive on it lol! Everyone’s entitled to a general value opinion, but how many are actually in the market for one? Or can afford the asking price. Cars like this will yoyo in value depending on what’s out there and the demand for it - Heck I think the person that paid $100million for that Classic Ferrari is crazy, but I am not even in the same league as those bidding on that Ferrari (not even close) so who am I to say it was overpriced or not? Reality is you can’t build a 1:1 replica CSL for the price of buying one now days assuming you can source every single part. Sure you can build a replica using replica parts for cheaper and get the same thrill so there’s always that route. But it’s not the same - different strokes for different folks.

Everytime one of these comes up for sale the amount of crap comment that gets generated blows my mind. I am going to bury mine with me when I die just so I don’t have to deal with these type of comments ???

Hi team! My name's Jonny and I'm from Northern Ireland. I recently moved to NZ with my partner to the East Coast Bays, where she grew up. I've never owned anything close to a classic before but I've been given the opportunity here to have and work on a beautiful 1990 320i. I've never worked on cars before but i know that these older vehicles suit the tinkerer a lot more than modern computerized vehicles so I've decided that with this in mind, this E30 will be my project for the next few years. I've already done some minor fixes, repairs or maintenance tasks, many for the first time in my life and I must say, I'm hooked. The Mrs already rolls her eyes when I start talking about what I want to do in the future, so, I figure that I must be doing something right..? Anyways, that's my little intro, I hope to become an active and valued member but mainly, I'm here to leech knowledge from you bimmer wizards until I have something I can contribute to and know that I have inside out knowledge on. Thanks for having me!

If you are interested in cars, and to explore the dynamic of the car, learn proper car control, and like to learn to work on cars, the late 90s, early 2000 BMW is the best car for that. I am a uni student as well, I have an e36 with M43 that I use as a platform to learn to work on cars. Parts are cheap, and most importantly, there are many of them in pick a part. I bought mine with $500 with a leather interior like new, but everything else is rubbish, no rego, no wof. I have only used parts from pick a part a part from some powerflex bushing, now it drives really good. A few trips to pick a part, you can pretty much rebuild the cooling system and suspension with almost no money. I have found almost new water pump, all alloy radiator, metal thermostat housing, structs in really good condition, near new tires with alloy wheels already balanced for really good price, Get an e36,e46 with colour like silver or dark blue, you don't even need panel beater if you happen to have a minor accident. Comparing to other euro brands of the same budget, BMWs are so much better to work on then Audis, Vws , and Benzs because the problems are well documented. And because they are BMWs they have likely had a stupid previous owner who knew nothing about the car, you will never run out of stuff to fix. the engine wise I would say get an e36 or e46 with 4cylinder if you can't afford petrol. E36 with M44 5mt is the best option, but e46 with M43tu is also good, the power band of the m43 is quite narrow. it is dangerously slow sometimes if coupled with a 4at. I found the 4at from GM terribly bad. it's a "close ratio" 4 speed, meaning it's revving too high for the highway, and gearing way too long in first and second. But they still managed to achieve a very hash shift, it's remarkable. The torque converter clutch lockup logic is the stupidest of all 4at I have driven. 4at use 20% more fuel than 5Mt. The only reason to go for a 4at is that they are half the price of a 5mt. The inline sixes are nice, they are slightly more eco on long drive because of the final drive ratio and higher engine compression ratio, but 2.0 inline six use almost the smae amount of fuel as the 2.5 and 2.8. Inline six coupled with 5at gets very bad fuel eco in city stop and go traffic. In Auckland rush hour you will get 14~15L /100 with auto inline sixes. 5Mt will be like 11~12L while 5MT inline four will be 10L. 11L is it is 4at . Do not test drive an inline six BMW if you can only afford an e36 with 4at, they are addicting and there is no way back. I borrowed an e46 325i 5mt for two days, and now I hate the m43 every day. E36's slow steering rack is perfect for learning to use the steering wheel correctly(which 80% of the driver in Auckland don't). E36's soft suspension is good for some of the bumpy backroad. the power of E36 318is with 5mt allow you to go flat-out everywhere and still can slide around in the wet to make it exciting. I honestly don't know why old Toyota Corolla is so overpriced, and people still buy them. many models from Nissan from the same era provide similar reliability at half the price.

No so sure about that. When you are listing the car as "totally original and immaculate" and "collectors car" then surely that is what it should be. Putting black grilles and cheap trademe carbon splitters onto a CSL and then calling it "totally original" is a bit of a whopper if you ask me. And to be honest, detract totally from the car. Easily corrected though you would hope!