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I see this a bit differently. Firstly you bought an imported N54 vehicle. I am not sure if you are aware but these engines have issues. The engine itself is pretty sound and unlike an s54 and some V8 and v10 motors you wont have to replace the bearings. You will however have to do plugs and coils, (maintenance items) and possibly injectors and a charge pipe at some stage. This is just part of N54 ownership, if you weren't prepared for this then you haven't done your homework. Looking at your description of the fault there is a chance its the plugs or the coil pack/s. If this is the case and the dealer will replace them then win to you. You have skipped a maintenance bill. If its the injector/s then even bigger win you will get another 50k or more (probably 100k) from the replacement . If its a faulty coil or injector then when one goes the others will follow pretty soon, so work a deal with the dealer to have all of them replaced, he may or may not but perhaps going halves would still be a good deal for you. When the basic faults and maintenance items are done on these engines then they are quite reliable, it does seem that Jap import N54s have fewer injector issues than US based cars, perhaps this is because of the better fuel in Japan. To me this is a 10 year old car with known faults/maintenance items if it turns out to be one of the above-mentioned items then its pretty typical of the breed, if its a high pressure fuel pump even bigger win to you if the dealer fixes it. Taking it back if its just a simple parts replacement is a bit of a waste of time, obviously you wanted the car and did some research and checked it out? It seems now that you have cold feet because of this but really you need to understand the fault first and then make an informed decision. If things like this put you off then with all due respect an N54 car may not be for you.

Relatively new to these forums and a computer to actually. We own a couple of 5 Series BMW's and a Mercedes W140 S500L. I do as much of the maintenance as possible, however occasionally I run into difficulties. Hopefully this move will rectify that problem a little. Cheers from Turangi.

Quite correct, the car had no issues when sold that the dealer was aware of, an issue has arisen post the sale and the dealer has agreed to fix it. As per previous discussions if its a maintenance issue plugs coils (distinct possibility) then this is actually in the buyers benefit. If it a HPFP or injectors then even better as these are known failure items and this future proofs the car to some extent. If its a dropped piston or similar then for sure get a refund.

Jon the stickers are upside down!?

And you could nearly throw a wheel between your two houses! Maybe it's contagion by proximity? If so, I'm soon.

^ thats not me guys. I dont have a second account pretending to be “Lucan”..

After my previous 330i was written off on 23 July 2018, insurance paid out almost full amount (still waiting to hear back about my excess that I believe should be refunded - 19 year old crashed into my previous 330i while it was parked at home). Then got myself this 2000 330i with 145 000km on the clock, 19" wheels, sunroof, lovely interior. Drives really nice.

take the coolant you brought at Repco back, and buy genuine BMW coolant from dealer. it is same price/L as the repco stuff so you might as well use it, and is the correct stuff for the car.

Hey Nathan there's no kit that i know of, i was going to use the jag xjr supercharger as there was a kit in the states that would mount it up. But couldn't seal the deal on that so went with the AMG charger. I'm just going to set it up the same way as the jag one. Get some custom intake adapter plates made from bmw to charger. Then will try and use the Bmw fuel lines and injectors, the Charger has an intercooler integrated into the bottom of the charger itself so would "hopefully" sit in the bmw valley pan area. plump it up and either chip the ecu or go aftermarket worst case. Thats the rough idea at the moment for it. check this build out, this is what got me on to the idea. https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=418571&page=6 Thanks

Wanting a left hand side headlight and trim underneath it for Facelift E46. Prefer titan silver colour trim

thats all well and good but the dealer may not be aware that these problems exist .They are not all "experts"That does not absolve them of their responsibilties under cga.

Oyea I sold my 540i yesterday too. Back down to 2 BMWs

Sounds like your "disease" is catching though. I must confess I seem to have bought a few more sets of wheels since drinking coffee with you on Sundays... Coinkydink..? Maybe, maybe not.

Whoops, meant to be selling wheels not buying them!

Yes, definitely get the correct coolant, as the non bmw stuff can damage the bmw aluminium parts. And definitely get a pressure test on the cooling system to find the leak. We can help you source parts when you find the leak.

with RE003s!

working on your old 330i today ha. such a shame to pull this car apart, it is very good condition!

i can critisie that build too, so here i go dont read on if you dont want Its not a 330D, that is a M51B25 engine not an M57B30. so its a 325td/tds. you can see it is a plastic cover on top so it looks like a M57 stupid place to mount the amplifiers, how do they dissapait heat in that tiny box? Headliner looks like its been sprayed using a paint can that is 90% empty. i bet it gets flat batteries a lot with a tiny battery like that for a diesel engine. suspension comments as per above. rest is styling which i keep to myself when it comes to others cars, because thats subjective.

Hey Team So managed to get a lot done today and hopefully tomorrow too. With the help of Master Gee and another mate E.B they pretty much turned up here in a ute with a portable work shop, had his compressor, big tool box and gearbox stand. We managed to pull the motor and box out in 40 mins. I did some minor stuff during the week also just to help spend things along. this bloody thing was heavy! I had removed the radiator and coolant expansion tank before hand. before after a good degrease and water blast. so after discussing with gee the best option was to take the whole front off, that way we could just hoist the whole motor and box into the car. As we are using the pmc adapter plate, we didn't fancy trying to line the box to the motor while under the car. M62b44 block M60b40 heads and everything else needed from this motor will be swapped over to the b44 block Also managed to get the Hamann wheels apart and paint stripped the 3 piece barrels. The Hamann centres may need a little machining to fit or possible heat the barrels up and see if they expand enough to fit the centres. And hey Nathan here are the finished rocker covers, again a few imperfections but i wasn't too fazed. Hopefully will get more done to the motor tomorrow. Thanks Richard

no problem, use Allans hard work and fit the M54B30 i have here, done 92k

had the compact there all race ready. And then brought a 318i auto 260km coupe, just been repainted alpine wiess the year before. so nothing special, decided it would be a project as i have always wanted to build up a white coupe. decided there was no point having two cars essentially the same under neath, and for the $8-10k or so to get the car there i decided well if the E30 ever does get put into the wall then i can buy another one and reshell again if it comes to that, but up until that point which hopefully never comes, better to do the way i have done it. also with the compact being dereg, at least with the E30 i can drive to and hopefully home from events etc. As for performance, the compact was quicker with otherwise the same setup. but thats also probably because the E30 coupe has a half cage and a full interior so thats another 100kg i guess. i havent put this car over the scales, but the compact was 1060kg with the M52, M3 brakes full tank of gas and one seat. i would say the E30 would be 1200kg maybe ?

Could just be one of the common faults that can happen with the car. Just make sure it gets fixed by someone reputable and the repair is done properly. Personally I'd only go through the hassle of returning the car if I was unhappy with the repair. Things break on these cars, one issue doesn't make the car a lemon.

If you are handy with a battery drill and know the basics of how the dash goes together I'd argue it is DIY. The cause of the fault is a flexible ribbon between the circuit board and the display. This ribbon is glued to the board (not soldered as some have you believe) and held in place with rubber blocks. The rubber blocks don't apply enough pressure, so you slip in a piece of 0.25-0.5mm plastic sheet to apply more force. This presses the contacts back together. The only hitch is you have to drill four holes in the cluster per the following guide to undo four screws. Pics of where to drill holes Drilling the holes was actually quite easy. The clear plastic is quite hard but the white plastic is soft and drills very easy. Undoing the display screws then exposes the ribbon (yellow horizontal strip in this pic: That's where I made a plastic shim around 5mm wide by 200mm and laid it on the contacts before putting the display back in place. I went from 30% working pixels to 100%. It took about 90 minutes all up.

Too bad the 304 is only 17”