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Showing content with the highest reputation on 04/24/19 in all areas

  1. 5 points
    All finished except the reverse light wiring which will be done when i can find a low OBC wiring diagram. The new shifter setup using the shorter E60 lever and ZHP knob is much improved. The stock setup had the problems of being to tall for me which meant i couldn't relax my arm on the rest perpendicular to the knob. Truck throw length is gone also but shifting is slightly more notchy as expected, still very livable. Throttle response and off the line performance is day and night compared to the old auto, but that's party due to my old torque converter slipping a low revs. I'm expecting it to get even easier to drive and less fuel once i get used to the clutch and its fully bedded in. Counting down the k's till i can really give it a proper work and make it feel like it was worth the ~3.5k it cost haha.
  2. 2 points
    What Rag Top said. Did it recently after two years of research and searching. Very pleased I did.
  3. 2 points
    Seller seems to be getting a tad bothered in the q&a now. I still bet though, that despite their insistance that you will see the value when viewing it, it won't be more than a 25k car max. I'd be curious if things like the vanos have been done, but I'm not one to waste time asking.
  4. 1 point
    NZ New 156000km #SOLD# 6 speed manual M Sport with all options ticked Harmen Karden Sound system Heated seats etc. $9500
  5. 1 point
    I've always though an M3 paired with something to handle the daily/commute stuff would be ideal. But kinda like you, I have the 335i that does both jobs. If I have to start over (due to moving country, or crashing the 335i and getting an insurance payout), then I might look at getting 2 cars. But when I have the 335i, and I won't get back what I've invested when I sell it, and driving hard it still puts a smile on my face... yeah I can't justify an M3 ? A tuned 135i/335i still provides plenty of fun... and uses much less fuel!
  6. 1 point
    i got my Bosch plugs from here. Look to be older stock, but work well. https://www.bindons.co.nz/product/21528-bosch-spark-plug
  7. 1 point
    i have some factory weights that bmw use that go clamp the gearlever for that effect
  8. 1 point
    On a positive note the loose light switch was bugging me so swapped it out for a good condition 2nd hand one. Undo one screw underneath and it will pop out. Switch action is now tight and positive! For $10 easy win.
  9. 1 point
    Ended up removing the transmission myself which wasn't too bad. The corroded starter dowel holding on for dear life and transmission dust over bolt i forgot to undo were the only issues, but my mate brute force sorted those bastards out. The replacement ZF went in very easy and even easier to bolt up with all the extra space in the tunnel. Given we are RHD, i routed the required clutch signal wire (using a ex transmission wire) and reverse light wires through the clutch line hole, made sense to me as its less wire to run and they need connect to the clutch module and instrument cluster respectively. Reverse light wiring runs runs under the heat shielding prior to going in the hole. Also made my own brake switch-clutch module adapter out of old plugs and wires from the donor car to keep it tidy, even got some Tessa tape. Swapped a pin from the EGS to DME for clutch signal then used PA soft to recode DME and IKE for manual and realigned the EWS. Car started and ran with no issues. Will follow up with NCS at some point to change the checksum to manual to complete that side of it. Few more hours finishing off then i should be driving tomorrow begin breaking in the clutch.
  10. 1 point
    Ive sold my dd 318ti because i never used it as much as I thought I would. My M135i was fulfilling all the duties very well - something your 335i wagon probably does for you also. Ive also thought about the idea of an M3 and my thoughts now are - I want a car, 1 car, to drive to do everything. I dont want to mess around with 2 regos 2 wofs 2 maintenance. etc. so for now I am sticking with what I have and putting aside the M3 dream for another day.
  11. 1 point
    you_got_a_friend_in_me.mp3
  12. 1 point
    yep no point bothering with M20 unless its for a specific racing class, you just want to keep the car "more original", or you want the cheapest option to get the car back on the road. M30 is dinosaur tech and boat anchor. was the engine of choice for decades when M5x engines were over 2/3k, but no point doing that now. i have done a bunch of M52 swaps, its easy to do and my engine of choice. just do plenty of reading, and read through a half dozen build logs and take the average of suggestions as the fact, dont rely on any one person. Bear in mind two things, 1/ most of the logs will be in American which means they are left hand drive (important when it comes to exhaust stuff, steering, and clutch control), the pinout tables are not correct for your car, and also 2/ most of the threads if not all are outside of NZ, where rules are generally a lot laxer and do not require the certification process we have. thus you will need to think about things like drive shaft hoops and bump steer tests, possible be forced to upgrade brakes etc. worth looking through the LVVTA Threshold guide as a starting point. also i recommend swapping to stock E36 steering rack at the same time, they are cheaper now than they used to be, and cheaper than having to make up custom power steering lines to adapt the e36 pump to the inferior E30 unit. use the holden barina / opel corsa linkage youll see mentioned, e30 nuckle on top and e36 on bottom. also means you dont need to recert later down the line when you do it anyway. having said all that, if i do another swap in the future, i think i will use the M54B30.
  13. 1 point
    Realistically you're not going to have much more fun in the M over the 135 (unless perhaps you're Scott McLaughlin) and it's going to cost way, way more. There are very few environments where and E9x M will be better than a F20 135i (although in those environments the gap will be vast) so you really don't gain much. However, it would look good at the coffee meets and we'd all love to see it and it's your money not ours so... To be honest, you'd be far better off getting an E46 M3 and pocketing the change if you're looking for a weekend driving experience (but again, it's not going to be leaps and bounds better than your current car). IMHO.
  14. 1 point
  15. 1 point
  16. 0 points
    Mentally accepted I have to say goodbye to my boyhood dream car. Last week Wednesday I was cut off by a driver who proceeded to dead brake Infront of me to avoid a speed camera van fine so naturally I dead braked but as I did I veered to the left to avoid impacting him. Long story short my baby is now a write off. Met with a concrete barrier and bent the chassis front and rear without the chance of repairing. Looking for a replacement will be impossible because as far as I know there aren't many 325i baurs in NZ let alone mtech 1 variants. Hoping to buy it back from insurance and possibly buy a vert or another baur to replace and replicate this vehicle. It had every option from the maplight mirror to factory tweeters. No I will not be parting it out to sell.
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