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Showing content with the highest reputation on 05/04/19 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    Hi Team Very long time and no post. Alot has been happening as to why i haven't posted. Today is a very sad day but also good and exciting. For you all that have been following this build know i was going to use the Green e46 sedan as my platform for the v12 build. After some serious thinking i couldn't give this opportunity up. I am the new proud owner of this rolling body M3 ( thanks paul ) Some of you may hate the bodykit but its slowly growing on me. Well see you how we go as i may convert it back to factory. which has meant that i am selling the green sedan. I have just sold the red coupe and have also purchased the v8 wagon ( thanks eddy) Great work horse as i have more space for parts now. So again ill be adding the wagon build to this thread just so i dont have a million build threads going. Wagon e46: currently has M60B30 v8 motor and auto in. Plans to convert M60B44 supercharged manual. I purchased a M62B44tu a few months back Also pulled the M60 heads of my spare car ready for the M60B44 build So thats pretty much what has been happened in the past few months. Now that the new M3 car has the whole rear end included, so I can now use the other M3 rear end for the Wagon supercharge swap which works out perfect. Now also all the parts that were intended for the green sedan will be used on either the M3 or wagon. I will be install the XYZ adjustables into the wagon tomorrow. Will post pictures if i get time. Thanks Richard
  2. 2 points
    Because you asked so nicely just for you
  3. 2 points
    There's no coincidence, Nick. You realise that you were instructed to build a shed, because next time you have an oily parts boil-up on the stove, you'll be sleeping in there?! ?
  4. 2 points
  5. 2 points
    While doing the vanos, my valve cover which I'd painted in crinkle black hadn't held up. Got it blasted Casting is pretty crap Ground back the worst bits Got it powder coated. You can see the imperfections, but its a lot better than what it was. While doing that, figured I should get the front subframe done too. Had that blasted, reinforcement plates welded in, and then powdercoated. While doing all that, found that some moisture got around the rubber that holds the front sway bar. Some interesting corrosion there Sway bar was powder coated, and replacement mounts were ordered.
  6. 2 points
    Tidied things up enough, and went out for a track day at Hampton downs on the Club Circuit Sadly no videos or photos of it in action as I went by myself. Learnt a few things -My 3-4 year old tyres aren't really up to the job -You get thrown around a lot in the stock sports seats -Power isn't everything on the small track. The little 1.8l MX5 fell behind me on the small straights, but was right up my behind every corner. -Brakes weren't up to the challenge Found that after a few runs by brake pedal was feeling a bit spongy, so called it a day. So with that under my belt, I was keen for some more track time. I went along to the E30 Race Series scholarship day to see what racing was all about. Ended up starting the day in a hot lap in an E30, which within a few minutes of the track opening had managed to flip itself in the sand. Fortunately everyone was alright. Cages are there for a reason. After that lovely incident I hopped into an E46 M3 for a hot lap, and tried not to sh*t myself in a car with double the HP. At the end of the day, had a new appreciation for racing, as the guys race very closely. Then the rest of the year was pretty uneventful. Wof guy noted that my exhaust was rubbing on my rear subframe. Tried to tweak the angle a bit, but it's still an issue. My central locking unit decided that it didn't want to talk to my remotes. I found that during this, someone had replaced the drivers door lock with another one, and didn't swap over the tumblers. So meant I had to lock/unlock passengers side until the lock rebuild kit arrived. Had to take out the passengers lock to get the initial key combo (and I took the ignition barrel out for good measure) So with the first 8? (I've forgotten) tumblers matched up to the passenger door lock, I just made up 3 remaining tumblers for the rest of the drivers door lock, as they are used for the deadlock function. Got a key cut to the tumbler codes, and everything worked smoothly (including glovebox), so pretty happy with that.
  7. 1 point
    Just popped back up on the Tard.. nice project, cool theme. https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/specialist-cars/competition-cars/auction-2046336605.htm Still a lot of work to finish it off but will be O for Orsome when done.
  8. 1 point
    Something definatley doesn't look right in the rear end. The way that bumper fits. And the huge arches around the rear wheel. Otherwise it looks nicely done. Get yourself some E46 M3 running gear. And you will have a quick car. Since it's a rep I wouldn't bother with an S14.
  9. 1 point
    Less than a month to go. Selling a car here can be hard work. I'm glad I am leaving my US phone number behind. The amount of Robocalls and spam txt's you get is just insane. I will probably get what I paid for the car I think. With all the maintenance done.
  10. 1 point
    Its bloody gorgeous as it is. Im not even usually an E30 fan, but damn what a looker.
  11. 1 point
    Hey, I was wondering if you were able to do me a massive favour? Are you able to measure the length from end to end? My cert guy wants to know the length vs an oem E30 one. Good luck with the sale!
  12. 1 point
    Auxiliary water pump hose was a bit fried and leaking so replaced that and the lower radiator main hose while I was at it, not to tricky but full radiator out to get to it. Luckily I could get around the aux fan and didn’t need to remove it
  13. 1 point
    And the Tards / experts have arrived in the Questions section. ok, it’s not perfect, but it’s cool if that’s your bag and you can always negotiate on price, but some people... jeez.
  14. 1 point
    Jeez I'd love a garage. Keep the posts coming, Nick! Great journey!
  15. 1 point
    At the same time as doing the heater core, I thought I might as well do an electric sunroof conversion. I ended up cocking this up quite substantially. I drilled through the holes in not quite the right places, so the motor would only be held in with 2 bolts. I'll be doing this properly later on, but for now you can review my cock ups. So you need the electric motor mount. These are riveted into the copper bracket that houses the wires. I just drilled out the rivet heads. Electric on left, manual on right. I found pretty quickly that the electric motor needs a bit more space, so cut a section out of the copper to match. Now in theory, you are supposed to be able to just bolt the black mount back onto the copper plate, and then just screw in the motor. For whatever reason, this didn't quite work for me. But I thought I had done rather well considering I had the front of the touring headlining hanging down so far during all the work. Ended up just dropping the headlining and removing it. It now lives on my back wall I continued to struggle with this. Ended up rounding out the electric motor gears as I didn't disengage them properly when manually winding it to test the sunroof opened and closed. This is the unit mostly apart And of course some classic sunroof rust. After this I just left the sunroof in place, and there is nothing connected to move it currently. Will come back to this hopefully later this year.
  16. 1 point
    Eh I don't have any interest in these models of BMW anyway. I would never buy one new. I guess we will just hang onto the ones we like. Hell the E46 is seeing a huge bump here in the US at the moment. Especially the M's and ZHP's.
  17. 1 point
    Since I had the car back together, there was no better time to take it apart pretty much the following weekend. I figured coming into winter (2017), I should probably have a heater again. I pulled the dash, and swapped the HVAC system for an AC one in preparation for an AC retrofit, and replaced the heater core with a new unit. I had a PFL and a FL AC HVAC cores. The PFL had a different connector loom, but I was able to use it for spares. Old system looking pretty grotty Took everything apart and gave it a clean Found a few of the flaps had had their tabs broken off. Apparently this is rather common. But fortunately I had some spares Used some draft stopper stuff to replace the old foam. This has actually held up very poorly, so if anyone has some recommendations that would be awesome. Looking nice and clean And back in the car with a new seal
  18. 1 point
    Gosh, it's been 2 years since I last updated this, so there will be a few updates coming in. Since no one ever chimed in to my previous post, I ended up doing a lot of my own guesswork and have made some assumptions since, which will come through in updates over the rest of the year.I finished swapping in the 2nd engine, and vanos was definitely not kicking in properly, as I felt I had lost low down torque, and when holding the accelerator steady, I could feel the car surging just while cruising at 50km/hTo celebrate the car being back together, I put some weaves on and took some photos.
  19. 1 point
    pretty cool although it looks rather involved for those of us without an electronics background! next project replace the kombi for a kph only one?
  20. 1 point
    Leaving a client meeting today the iDrive was dead, and I had a drivetrain and adaptive headlight warning on the KOMBI. Luckily I knew exactly what was causing this. When I initially removed the Bimmer Retrofit adapter one of the CAN2 pins popped out of the quadlock, causing the exact same set of errors. I stopped at an electronics store on the way home to buy a couple of things, and as soon as I got home I checked my CAN2 wiring. The pins were secure, so I checked the splices on the CAN2 lines at the CAS. Bingo! Turns out the wire I used to connect the NBT to the CAN2 network was not thick enough, so the scotch locks did not cut clear through the sheathing, meaning very little splicing was taking place Removed the wire and taped up the CAN2 lines at the CAS and re-spliced at the ZGW using 18AGW wires. Also took the opportunity to do some cable tidying behind the headunit. All in all took around 45 minutes, and a test drive after confirmed everything is working as it should.The journey continues...
  21. 1 point
    So basically everything in a newer BMW then?
  22. 1 point
    1 May 2019. 173665kms 1. Fuel Filler Cap: replaced. The fuel filler cap seal was badly cracked. And (as mentioned in my initial posts on this thread more than two years ago), was missing it’s leash. I’d experienced a ‘lockout’ recently on my e46 (same cap), where I was unable to open the cap to fuel up, and needed to resort to soaking with penetrant to ease the seal. So I sourced two OE replacements (one for each car). I couldn’t see the value in Genuine BMW for this, was happy with OE product. It’s a three minute job to replace the cap. Seal not available as a separate part (referring to RealOEM). From this... ... to this Job’s a good ‘un.
  23. 1 point
    26 April 2019. 173xxxkms 1. Active Steering Rack: replaced.Jon at Auto38 had done the diagnosis and analysis. My old rack was clunking. Jon had pulled back the rack boots and found rusty grease, and significant wear in the rack teeth. Sadly wear is not covered by my Autosure MBA. So we were onto repair options. Sounds easy, right? Just get another good rack, and swap it in. The Active Steering Rack is a big-ticket item, with a bunch of sensors all over it. And it's a bit of a sh*t to fit, by all accounts. Being so large, subframe comes down a long way. A new one from BMW is not an option for me. That would ruin my Christmas. So good used options were sought on my behalf. Jon & Keren sourced a suitable rack, Jon pulled the old rack and swapped over all of my existing electronics to the new (used) rack, and installed/initialised/calibrated in the car. An alignment to top it off. [“nice rack!” Said nobody last week in a spectacular Newtown workshop. My well-worn rack, along with the ancillaries from the new (used) rack.] It's great to have the beast back, and it's steering nicely. Smoother than before. And after a couple of weeks away from the 545i (it was Easter and ANZAC, and I wasn't in a hurry), I'm reminded of why I like this car so much. It's very talented, and does it all. As ever, I'm very pleased with Auto38's service and professionalism. I'm sure you will be too, if you take your car there.
  24. 1 point
    I wonder if you do go and have a look if you'll drive up the driveway, see the car sitting there all nice and clean and then the owner will open the garage and go "ta-da!" and the second one is sitting there for you. Two 3.0 M3's for $38k seems about right.
  25. 1 point
    Managed to score some genuine low mileage replacement tail lights for $50 each. Bargain really. Nothing much wrong with the old ones but certainly not as dull and in better condition so they can move to the parts cupboard.Some before and after pics.
  26. 1 point
    Engine swapped in without too many issues, aside from me putting one of the mounts upside down. But figured that out pretty quick, and didn't manage to break any parts this time Old engine colour New engine colour The dinosaur that my mate hid in the engine mount when I put the old engine in. Have given it a few drives, and have a few issues. This engine is giving me error code 212: VANOS Jammed. Have tested the solenoid, seems to work fine, and swapped to my previous solenoid also with no difference. So sounds like the Vanos needs the seals replacing? Had this weird sound coming from the intake when the car was cold, which I found was the CCV that I had replaced about 4000km ago. -Removed the oil cap -Put a glove over it -Glove almost got fully sucked in :/ I take it that this is not normal and the CCV needs replacing? I performed the test with an old CCV I had, and the glove gets pulled in, but not like it's going to actually disappear into the valve cover. While replacing the CCV, I noticed some milky sludge on the end of the tube leading into the dipstick return, and also at the end of the line connecting the valve cover to the CCV. Nothing under the oil cap, and the oil looked pretty clear in the sump. And lastly, getting some smoke out the rear of the exhaust, but mostly when I'm at WoT This was taken with the engine warmed up, reving and holding at about 5.5k rpm https://goo.gl/photos/o2XkymTnD1LzoU3VA Just wondering what everyone's thoughts are before I start jumping to too many conclusions.
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