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Showing content with the highest reputation on 06/12/19 in all areas

  1. 1 point
    The boot struts are a nightmare to replace. The ones that open the glass- which is what Gaz is thinking of- are trivial.
  2. 1 point
    Thanks heaps for you help Pramod, life saver, I was about to torch the fecking thing Ended up being a butchered coding from Carly app, reflash to stock by @promo via the magic of the interwebs and I have tail lights that behave themselves now.
  3. 1 point
    I won't even ask how you even know that is a thing... Back to the car in question. Not sure the performance of a 328i coupe is going to back up the aggessive look of the car, really needs something special under the hood to justify the wide arches and rubber. As MEAN said, looks dumb not to have flowed the arch flares around into the front and rear bumpers.
  4. 1 point
    Fixed the thread title for you mate Great cars, shame buyers in NZ are obsessed with SUVs.
  5. 1 point
    One of these is on it's way. https://www.crazysystems.co.nz/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=184 (They're cheaper on TradeMe, from the same supplier.) Apparently they are pretty much plug'n'play... Which just leaves the small matter of getting to the back of the existing kit to sort!
  6. 1 point
    My 2.0L Z3 with a M52TUB20 engine (same as the M54) and 112,700 miles (182,600 km) had the dreaded VANOS rattle really bad. Anti-rattle rings were installed in the VANOS pistons when the seals were changed. This provided an improvement but there was still rattle at idle. Today I changed out all major VANOS spline parts and the rattle is gone. Parts changed were: · 11361744263 Sprocket inlet · 11361438306 Tooth sleeve exhaust · 11361715027 Double spline cup, 2 of Do not attempt to replace or alter the spline on the end of the cam shafts. You’ll totally loose your timing with no way back if you do. You need the double VANOS timing tools to do this job as you upset the timing when changing the parts. Timing instructions are in TIS and are easy to follow. The difficulty of the job is the same as replacing the VANOS seals, so if you are tool handy, you should be able to do the job. The hardest part was getting the plastic bung out of the crank lock hole and fitting the crank lock pin. I did this with the Intake manifold in place (right hand drive car) by reaching up from the bottom and feeling my way around. Very pleased with the results.
  7. 1 point
    tool32 wont flash it for you. only recovery is by eeprom programming. 021 0894 1411 if you need help
  8. 1 point
    Game of Thrones edition dildo ?
  9. 1 point
    fingers x'd. I found I'd missed some spots on the brake shields with the wet top coat (there's a dusting only). Hey ho, can do that another time. Was planning on cooling hose replacements, but unable to make it swing this week. Hopefully they're sound enough for the trip (top and bottom main hoses already replaced with genuine BMW). It's scheduled for tomorrow, we'll see if it's ready to rock by Friday arvo. I have a very kind offer of an alternate vehicle if Grey Thunder isn't ready. Well spotted on the other rubber. That's for the SS Commodore in a German Suit, will go on soon.
  10. 1 point
    Bit of a fail not to widen the bumpers to match the rest of the kit... especially if you've spent 30k on mods.
  11. 1 point
    I only came here for the noise ?
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