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Showing content with the highest reputation on 01/14/20 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    Thought I'd share this with the group as it may spark some nostalgic interest. Was given to me from my neighbour. Twelve A2 art prints from the '80s or '90s im guessing. Now to find a wall to show them off on. Oh, wine bottle for scale too.
  2. 3 points
    Jesus rides a horse and has chosen not to drive a BMW.
  3. 2 points
    Better the devil you know... unfortunately all of these M5s will need this work done at some stage, I was lucky I got 160k out of mine with no crank damage, but some with half that mileage will be toast.
  4. 2 points
    The thought has crossed my mind - and there's some reasonable options like this: https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/bmw/auction-2418435201.htm - my preferred colour combination and including a 3yr MBI - for $24K. But the MBI approach of 'fix it when it fails' with cover up to XX per failure doesn't work so well if you need a V10 engine rebuild and you're only covered for $5-$10K. Replacing one 15yr-old high performance car with another old one of the same type also carries the risk of trading or repeating sets of problems. And what do i do with the current vehicle? Jon's had an M5 in with 60KMs and much worse bearing wear - so KMs is only an indicator. The FB group shows that the bearings can be worn at all sorts of ages - or not. Without going into the engine you don't know if the crankshaft is actually OK. In actuality the fault list isn't huge at present... small coolant leak - every BMW gets leaks stuffed mirror glass - relatively minor fuel sender - an annoyance worn bearings - expected Common sense - if you need/expect cars to have fewer problems, don't buy BMWs, don't buy M cars and buy much newer vehicles. This is a bonkers 2005 500HP supercar that cost over $200K when new and is only worth $20K now ... which makes it cheap, but not really. I remember when i was looking at buying an AMG E55 each airbag suspension unit was $1800 to replace, and they're a common failure item. Colleague of mine was faced with a Merc CLK convertible power arm replacement costing $7K. ?
  5. 2 points
    Hi all, Have just purchased this car within the last few months, I don't have much information on this car and would like to gain as much knowledge on it as I can. First owner in New Zealand with around 84000kms. Was wondering what I could do as preventative maintenance. Car is manual
  6. 2 points
  7. 2 points
    Due to a lingering engine issue(loose PCV hose), exhaust swap hasn't yet happened. I have only driven the car a couple of times since purchase(to get the new tyres, and to the mechanics) so was stoked to finally get the car back today. It took a while to diagnose the issue and get it sorted, no fault codes were showing up but was fixed at no cost to me, since it was replaced recently. At the same time the new MAF sensor was installed and service done. Sourced a tool for the roof racks so that was the next job I tackled. Really easy to remove, 2 screws at each end and they lift off. Car looks miles better without them, but was quite grubby underneath so gave the roof a thorough cleaning once I had them both off. Much happier with the cars look now, no more racks/eyebrows/silly badging. But removing the rack did uncover this... One of the tabs on the left hand side has broken off. Apparently you can't buy the tabs themselves as they come as part of the trim so I'll be looking for a trim piece to replace this one. Hoping to have the exhaust swap done shortly, and an alignment/paint touch up on the wheels. Both this week would be sweet. But its great having the car back and being able to drive it. Such fun!
  8. 2 points
    Passed the first cert inspection???
  9. 2 points
  10. 2 points
    Took the M5 in to Auto38 today ... now on ~146KMs I've been getting a warning related to tyre pressure loss pretty much every time i take the car out - check pressures, they seem OK and reset pressures via iDrive - and off we go. Jon identified a valve leak on the right rear and has sorted this. It failed the WoF due to 2 things... both of which are annoying and unexpected expenses but I can't really argue either point the passenger wing mirror is defective... chromatic mirror (option S430A, LCD) has failed and the LCD is draining. Doesn't appear to be any way of fixing these... and options are buy new M5 heated chromatic mirror glass - Winger - ~$1800!, Schmiedmann ~$900ish buy new M5 heated non-chromatic mirror glass via Winger for $500, Schmiedmann ~$350ish so I'm going for the $500 Winger option, taking advantage of the BMW Car Club parts discount. The chromatic/auto-dip isn't really that important IMHO. despite passing many warrants previously, the windows were identified as being tinted at twice the legal level (70%!). I thought they were factory tinted but this is not the case. So this means getting the existing tints removed (carefully!) and applying new ones at 35%. I've contacted Window Magic here in Wellington who come highly recommended... we'll see what this costs. Hopefully it isn't too bad as I'd like to get tints on the F30 too... Jon is sourcing a part to remedy the small coolant leak - glad there weren't any issues when I drove it in this morning We're pricing a replacement left fuel sender as i would like to get the annoying fuel gauge issue sorted. When I drive off it shows half a tank, and then the fuel increases to reflect the actual fuel level. The right sender has already been done back in 2018. Jon has done an oil change and I'd asked him to check for metal particles - and yes there is some visible. At this point I need to decided if I bother with an oil analysis, or put the money I'd spend on this towards just getting the rod bearings done as a preventative measure, just as @aja540i did with his E61 M5 Touring (such an awesome vehicle!) Turner Motorsport and ECSTuning recommend bearing replacement at 60-80,000 miles On the Facebook M5 owners' group - the consensus seems to be 'get it done' Now my issue is finding who can or will do it for me in Welly! Any advice here? Seeing if Jon is willing to tackle it - and will ask Mike Page European and Winger too. Feels like an expensive time for me, but for me the M5 is a special car and I can't see what I'd replace it with. ?
  11. 2 points
    What a great thread revival. A+
  12. 1 point
    All this 130 talk makes me want to buy a manual one and modify it haha. Good work everyone.
  13. 1 point
    I'd also recommend the rubber seals under the bolts too, if they havent been done. +1 for genuine seals, the Victor Reinz one i got at one point just didn't quite seal as well as the genuine one I also used.
  14. 1 point
    Sweet, it's yours. As simple a job as it is, it'll probably be the weekend so send me a PM so I can find you quickly, I'll likely lose track of this thread.
  15. 1 point
    Passenger side roof molding with the two roof rack flaps intact, in ALPINWEISS 3 aka white. No 3 in the picture. Also need the screw in part of the aerial, similar to the picture. Will need to work out what part no. it is.
  16. 1 point
    The question is: Will your M5 also rise on the third day? ?
  17. 1 point
    Picture's are about a month old. Badge is now gone i hated the look of it just could never be bothered to take it off.
  18. 1 point
    Everyones trying to be as cool as me! Its good seeing all these 130s snapped up, welcome. Car looks good, xenons/manual/sunroof - Good options. Pull that ebay M badge off the grill though ? https://www.mdecoder.com/decode/ps89205
  19. 1 point
    The actual aerial itself? The stubby "sport" one is 65 20 2 296 761 - mine just arrived yesterday. Assuming my swap goes to plan you can have the carbon fibre one I'm removing, it works fine but is not in perfect condition.
  20. 1 point
    Bugger about the tints @TermiPeteNZ ?. I thought they were factory too. Pretty crazy that after many years of attaining WoF's it hasn't been an issue until now. I've used Window Magic a couple of times to do previous BMW's - Greg is very good at what he does (not just cos he's got a cool name haha). In fact, reminds me I need to book in to get mine done. I think rod bearings is probably a good investment, as I agree, the E60 M5 is a special car ?. Good luck mate, it will all work out!
  21. 1 point
    A pair of brand new Ali-Express specials, kidney grills for something that's not an E87. Looks more like E90 grills to me. Free to good home, pick up I also have an E87 front undertray "recreation" from ABS plastic, that with some hole drilling will fit to E81/E87. I paid $150 for it (real tray is $450 from BMW) but ended up finding a used part. Is taking up space in the shed so will take literally anything for it. Also have a set of BMW OEM roof racks and the tool for them, that came off an E87 130i. I assume it would fit on most 1 series of the same shape. Not sure what they're worth, make an offer. Everything is pick up only, based in Welly.
  22. 1 point
    Took the car, and the Family around Hampton Downs international circuit this past weekend, as part of the BWM Festival, sponsored by the BMW Car Club NZ and Coombes Johnston. It was a cool event and the kids (4 and 11 months) loved going out on the track, for 1 lap, then they both fell asleep with 3 to go... Car handled well, with no sign of spongy brakes of the past. I manged to wind 3rd out a few times despite the crowded cruise session. With radio off (and kids asleep) its nice to hear the 3 liter sing. onlything i can think of that would make it better (it is a family car in M Sport trim after all) is better tires. the Altrenzo (yuck) and old Eagle F1s offer different handling characteristics and once they are up for replacment i'll be looking at all 4 - something sporty yet quiet.
  23. 1 point
    So with the track day over, and Mega Meet just over a month away, better get that exhaust sorted. Just for reference this is what I was running: M52 headers (front modified), into a merge, then 2.5in through 2 coby's into a magnaflow muffler Went to TTT Auto Engineering off a recommendation from the forums to get a new exhaust made up. I ended up taking them another set of M52 headers, a mid section off a 135i, and a custom muffler that I had done by Manawatu Muffler Centre, and said make it fit, and specified where I'd like the V-bands. I think I've only got full photos while it was being tacked up: And here it is on the ground Back to the sump and the mid muffler being the lowest points on the car. Really impressed with the job on the exhaust. It is quieter across the board. Don't have the popping noises as I decelerate anymore (though I know some of you love those) But annoyingly, hasn't resolved my cabin resonance issue at 2000RPM. Put a new genuine IS lip on, as I smashed the fibreglass one I had over a year earlier reversing out of a driveway (Not mine) And sorted out my sunroof. This was inside the 'rust free' sunroof I purchased Mmm yummy. I split it at all the pinch welds, took it to a panel shop (Not the one that did my tailgate, though I did actually take it to them to be done with the car originally) Where it then got acid dipped, then rust protectent applied to the inside, and pinched back together and painted. This is what my old sunroof left in my drains: I then converted my sunroof to electric. There are a few ways to do this it turns out. But the easiest way is just to take the full electric system out of a working car, and swap it in. I tried the drill/cut method, but I just made a mess, and cross threaded the motor mounts. Only really need the brass rails and everything inside the cabin. You coupe/sedan people have it easy, as you don't have to pull your whole headlining out to do this. Purchased a recovered Tech 2 wheel a while back, so put that on as well. It is a larger 385mm, but I prefer it to a 370mm for cruising as I can actually see the speedo. Then went down to Megameet 2019. Had a couple of issues 1. My car decided that it didn't want to start during the whole weekend, after driving and then being parked up for say 20 minutes. Suspect either heatsoaked starter, or dying battery. This lead to me becoming a pro at push starting my own car. 2. The rear V-Band clamp fell off on the trip down after I gained some air. This was definitely on me, as I had removed the rear muffler to polish it up a little, and I didn't tighten it back up enough. So still needed the earplugs I had in the car. And it made GREAT noises driving through the tunnels. Fortunately managed to find a shop open on Saturday that had V-Band clamps in stock, so after that the earplugs were no longer required. Was great catching up with a bunch of enthusiasts. Especially @_BRS_ and @Olaf Compared my brakes with Olaf's as he reckoned the Hawk HPS pads were great for street use. So both cars Hawk HPS pads. (Though drums in the rear of the little 316i) Could lock Olaf's wheels up at 80km/h no worries when I slammed on the brakes. Mine, I slowed down, but couldn't lock up even when smashing the pedal. Suspect either cooked pads, or stuck caliper(s). So some progress there. When home via Taupo via Okau road. Google reckoned it was a faster route. What it didn't tell me, was that it was mostly gravel. Still, there was no one else on the road, and it was reassuring to have the LSD.
  24. 1 point
    Schmiedmann Christmas order arrived (no GST). I added the free mug because it reduced the shipping cost by US$20. ? Matt black grills (replacing the tatty CF ones) BMW Performance Alcantara steering wheel cover (to match the shifter and boot) OEM stubby aerial to replace the naff carbon fibre one 3.5mm + USB aux 'switch' - requires quite a lot of wiring and coding I think, might never go in. I also received another package from the US that I'm a little bit excited about but I need to work out if it's a win or fail before I release the details (which I will do regardless of whether it's a win or fail). I want to install it all now but I'm on BBQ duty! ?
  25. 1 point
    I installed an R32 VR6 ?. More complicated than a catch can... but very effective ?
  26. 1 point
    Productive day. Ls sump that I've ordered is 50mm to high. The Holley one would be here in 2-3 weeks. Would fab mounts, relocate ABS pump, look at steering shaft and start Ls in the ground....that would get the eager & excitement juices pumping?? 20200106_183556.mp4
  27. 1 point
    Project_01-06_HD 720p_1.mp4 Project_01-06_HD 720p_1.mp4
  28. 1 point
    Hi, got the car this week, Sally from European Car imports was really great, and I had a very good experience. Thanks for the pointer. I can highly recommend their service and professionalism. If anyone is looking to import a vehicle from the UK, do get intouch with Sally. Loving the new car as well!
  29. 1 point
  30. 1 point
    I owned this about 12 years ago. Had it for 3 years then sold it to Ross @ BM Workshop. The present owner bought it off Ross. All BMW enthusiasts. Genuine unmolested example.
  31. 1 point
    OCD aren't unique, all places I've heard of charge a ridiculous amount for it. Yes, prep is critical but if you've just paid $750 for that, you shouldn't be paying another $750 for $40 of product. You could always get some place to detail your car and then apply the coating DIY and save $700. Check on eBay, sort by price and have a bit of a laugh, they have all brands there, some even selling the same product for $400 that others are selling for $40. I suspect they all come from the same, or similar factories, in China. Yes, they are hydrophobic, yes they repel liquids for a while and yes, they're not worth $750. As for scratch resistance, 9H or 10H is bug level scratches, not stone level scratches. They do make your car or wheels or whatever easier to clean for a while though. I'd love to be convinced some are worth 10 or 20 times more than others, with science, not marketing BS.
  32. 0 points
    Update... Tints Tints for F30 = $480 ; tints for E60 = $460 ; removal of old tints approx $100. May take the F30 in to get sorted soon. Takes 2 hours to do a car. Mazda (you don't care but I do) Having to get all 3 remaining brake calipers rebuilt on the wife's Mazda - LF was done last time, now RR seized and Driscolls advised that RF was not working properly either. So if doing 2, better do three as brakes kind of matter from a safety perspective... M5 Enquired about bearing bearing replacement for the M5 to Winger, Mike Page up the coast and BM Workshop in Akld. Both Mike and BM Workshop have actually worked on the car in the past. Winger are looking into it Mike very politely and sympathetically declined, and recommended Guido at BM Workshop in Botany BM Workshop were very helpful indeed but have also scared the $h1t out of me too... it is of course important to be aware of the possible outcomes. To paraphrase: prepare for the worst - and don't drive the car until it has been checked it is entirely possible that there is crankshaft damage (scoring) - they have seen this in a car with no metal in the oil and a lot less KMs If your crankshaft is too badly damaged then it is a rebuild and the job will be $20K+ big-end bearings can be done in-place ; high-pressure Vanos feed hose should always be done too and job cost is around $6K once you have metal contaminants in the engine there is risk of premature wear on the bearings - BM Workshop aren't keen on doing bearing replacements when this is the case. Funnily enough this is when most people will want their bearings done. They are prepared to lend the tools to a Wellington specialist such as Mike - which is very good of them. Don't expect anybody to warranty a job like this I've been reading up and using the super helpful BMW M5 Owners Club on Facebook - the two experts are Jim Colley from the USA - and Steve Lewis (FB: Mr Vanos, https://www.mrvanos.com/) from the UK. These guys are awesome. Jim Colley has a workshop that repairs crankshafts and he uses aftermarket bearings "Top secret weld repair and regrind. I usually then take off an extra 1/2 thousandth to add oil clearance and then avoid OEM bearings at all cost. For cranks that have all journals ground down, I use VAC coated bearings at OEM size. For non-reclearanced cranks I use BE Bearings. All cranks are then hardened after machine work and rebalanced for OEM rods/pistons/ring sets... I'm just not a fan of the harder surface layer on the OEM bearings now. I like as much delta as possible between crank and bearing hardness." "I have the cranks ground (removing bearing shell backing material, weld built up, then ground back original size and polished, finally hardened. This allows using OEM size bearings." "Because when I take an engine I built with larger clearance bearings apart after 5134 miles, 10k miles, or 27k miles, it looks better than the one BMW did from the factory? No one has yet to open an engine with bearing that provide the same oil clearance engine builders have been using for years and seen the same premature wear patterns that the S65 and S85 exhibit. Sometimes, even BMW thinks they are smarter than they are and make mistakes. For the engines following the S65 and S85, they oddly went back to the same clearance thumbrule they've always followed before." "As a former nuclear engineer turned engine builder, the only factors that extra clearance would play a role in are .00025 inches further stroke of the rod which is will within the piston crown to head clearance of .005". Since the oil pump maintains a constant output pressure, the increased flow from clearance would have a negligible effect on flow to other components aside from increasing main bearing oil flow which is also a good thing. There was a Powerpoint presentation that leaked out a few years ago detailing how BMW used some predictive mathematical modeling on the S85 crank design to reduce the amount of real world testing needed. IMO, they relied too much on what the model data yielded and less on conventional testing with historical data to back it up." "The only bearings I would consider using are BE and VAC. I prefer BE because their QA far exceeds VAC (VAC bearings are kind of like a box of chocolates), but will use VAC if I measure every bearing individually." "You can't change the other bearings (mains) without removing the engine. Might as well rebuild it at that point. As for other things during a rod bearing change, do the vanos line. If old style (pre 12/05 build), change the vanos drive gears on the pump and crank. Piston skirt oil squirters were redesigned around 08, huge improvement and better piston cooling. I've seen a couple of motors pop ring lands on a piston due to overheating on the top ring." Steve Lewis uses new BMW crankshafts (~£3K) and BMW bearings "Not had any issues with BMW bearings and a 5w40 Motul race oil. Bearings come back out looking like new. Presumably your resizing the mains to suit the extra oil flow needed to feed the rods?" "Once a bearing has spun the rod end is scrap. You need to change the con rod which is engine strip down. The only way to do it properly. Out of all the v10’s and V8 M3’s I’ve built with spun bearings not one crank has been reusable." "The cranks are really soft which once the bearing touches takes a fair amount of material off. I’ve measured over 1.6mm material missing on some engines. S54 cranks when bearings spin might take 0.25mm at worst" Views after a crankshaft/bearing replacement "Unless it’s had piston rings fitted it doesn’t need running in. Oil change after 50 miles wouldn’t hurt to make sure the last of the metal is out the engine from the failure" So I've asked Jon at Auto38 to inspect the crankshaft and we will make decisions from there... so the M5 is off the road until further notice. Fingers crossed I just need to do bearings - and will plan on doing the BE Bearings like @aja540i used ; and will likely do the other items recommended by Jim Colley. Another aspect of E60 M5 preventative maintenance is the clutch release bearing... advice from Mr Vanos (Steve Lewis): "Well, this was a surprise for us and certainly the owner. The known problem of the clutch release bearing on this car being made from aluminium has bitten this car, hard. The bearing gauled up on the gearbox input shaft, damaging the clutch and flywheel. This didn't seem too big of an issue until we discovered the crankshaft moved in the block backwards and forwards 11mm. Engine out stripdown reveals the damage as shown. Basically the SMG has the power to actuate the clutch no matter what and as such it has pushed and pulled the crank against the thrust bearing, destroying it and splitting the block in half. I have seen this before but the clutch had been changed by a other garage so I didn't get to see the cause of the damage. Top and bottom of this is, get your release bearing changed ASAP to the newer teflon bearing that won't stick the shaft. We can do this for £350 all in. The engine is this car is destroyed, along with Vanos solenoids, oil cooler, oil filter housing and anywhere else the huge amount of metal paste has got to." Once I've dealt with the bearings issue (and depending on what happens ) this might be next on the list...
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