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Showing content with the highest reputation on 04/26/20 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    Just had another excellent experience with him. He's fantastic.
  2. 1 point
    Yeah so that was my next option to try. I have bypassed the clutch switch. I think I need the signal sent from the clutch switch to pin23 on the DME. Apparently this signals the DME to cut the revs when the clutch pedal is pressed. I have ordered the correct clutch switch. Will try this. If not it could quite well be the light flywheel .
  3. 1 point
    I'll let others chime in but I'm pretty sure 98 wont make any difference over 95.
  4. 1 point
    Thanks man. Spur of the moment setup pic..and doesnt she look might fine??. But...I aint impressedwith those headers. I should have made another set before doing these..to get my procedure thought about and planned. Also...I need a proper welding station, the machines feed at lower end either goes too low or high..variable knob is stoofed, a metal table with adequate clamps, much better lighting and a few more hours with a gun in my hand. The end product..is..OK...I will do some proper mandrel bent ones in december. That photo shot says it all though..pleased with all the work up to this point. Electronics, cats fitted and rear welded without muffler..to start up in 2 weeks..
  5. 1 point
    Great work. It will be interesting to see if there is a difference after you replace the fuel filter as I bet that old one is pretty blocked up.
  6. 1 point
    Check clutch switch is wired and operating correctly, and also remove the viscous and pusher fans, replacing with the proper manual puller fan.
  7. 1 point
    Did a spot of cleaning on the E39 today. Inspired by a mates efforts on his M3. Rear lights were removed, exposing several layers of gunk. Cleaning was done by Chemical Guys all purpose cleaner, clay bar, detailing brushes. Finish protected by Chemical guys wax, and quick detailer.
  8. 1 point
    Weird, I swear mine does it too, not when i'm driving relaxed or flat out but when I'm accelerating and shifting around 75% pace... could be user error but 6 months later still does it at times. I feel like I have to be very deliberate with taking my foot right off before engaging the clutch. Manual converted when I got it, ZF, assume standard clutch and flywheel but no idea really.
  9. 1 point
    So far, so good, got the Vanos seals, oil line and oil filter housing gasket all done. Not too hard at all really, even I didn't cock it up! Hardest thing was actually getting the old seals out from the vanos pistons without scratching the edges up, but would have been easier with a scalpel. I smoothed out a couple of scratches with 2000grit. Difference in 'tightness' in the cylinders with old vs new seals wasn't as massively different as I expected? Car feels strong, guess I'll take a while to break in the seals with the lockdown in place - definately easier to take off smoothly with less throttle input. Want to say it pulls a little cleaner from down low (placebo?) but car never felt weak with the 3.38 diff. Next step will be fuel filter and a fresh tank of 98 ? (had been using 95 up until now as I have a Z fuel card but have since given it to the wife). Pulleys and tensioners seem to be on the way out as well so another FCP order coming up ? VID_20200425_115911.mp4
  10. 1 point
    CJ in Hamilton (especially) are very good. Pro-active, won't sell you a line. Fabian in parts is one of the best.
  11. 1 point
    Agree with the suggestion of Coombes Johnston - by far best main dealer I've dealt with.
  12. 1 point
    Interesting i had a similar experience years ago, had a pre purchase inspection done and the headlight pattern was off on one side. Shop owner told me it was a bad aftermarket headlight and i needed to buy one from him for $1000 or something. I just flicked the lhd, rhd lever on the headlight which fixed the pattern. Dude just walked off after that lol.
  13. 1 point
    Hey Team hope you all had a nice Anzac day of remembrance. So keeping busy in lockdown and trying to make the most of this free time. I had a pre 98 e39 pedal box that i thought the pedals would work as the part numbers match but for some reason it wouldnt work with the x5 Brake bracket. So with some left over bits from a e87 pedal box i manage to make something that will hopefully work. Cutting the x5 brake pedal down with a cardbourd template. Just a rough test fit to check if the clutch pedal clears the foot rest and luckly it does as the e87 pedal hangs to the left as you can see. Brought another Solid Mount Shifter from BM speed shop ( trying to support local businesses) for an e46 and mounting point work, Just need to lengthen the e39 selector rod. Pulled the motor out and stripped it to change all the gaskets and timing chain guides but looks like they were already done as they looked brand new. these are the bits of the old timing Guide after removing the upper oil pan. Gave the block and all mating surfaces a good clean too, took the outer c.v joint off the shaft to be reused and repainted the valve cover. and saw this too that the block had a b44 stamp on it. BMW must have just reused the 4.4 blocks and bored them out a few mm. Also thought id give this a try, placed a whole electric e46 fan and shroud inside the x5 one. Plugs are the same so hopfully can get it to work. So now just waiting for all the gaskets to come from FCP euro.
  14. 1 point
  15. 1 point
    Got a week off work now (Managers and specialists encouraged to take 4 days AL in April...) so have a few projects to keep me busy. Vanos seals and oil line (Got the X8R kit with all gaskets / bolts etc) Oil filter housing gasket Fuel filter (current one 19 years old) MTF and diff oil change Looking forward to the challenge (to date Valve cover gasket is the 'hardest' thing I've done) and hoping to not break anything else while I'm doing it ? Wish me luck!
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