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There has also been a few Land Rover Defenders and Discos listed for sale from Central Otago tour operators.

You might want to hand back your petrolhead credentials preferring a turbo 4 to an NA inline 6...

https://blog.fcpeuro.com/first-times-the-charm-bmw-e46-m3 DAMN!!

Id just go grab a replacement exhaust from the manifold to the back box from a wrecker, there will be a few of them out there and I doubt it'll cost much.. Id say less than $300 (I suspect they're not that sought after, apart from people in your situation) And then with some new gaskets you can bolt it in in the driveway, and it'll sound like BMW intended As modelled by the dog -

Expensive. (Controversial, I know.) An auto sedan would need to be mint for that price, and this one is far from it.

That looks fantastic man well done.

Have you driven one? Whilst they have a mediocre amount of power. The engine doesn't feel like it was made by BMW at all. It just drives so weird. Soulless. Like a modern Mazda.

as Tom Jones sang, "it's not unusual...". Years ago I had Tony's Tyre Service make all sorts of excuses as to why they could not produce an alignment printout for a re-alignment... then told me that rear axle (non-BMW) was not adjustable. I replied yes it was, it had been done many times, and I'd left the factory alignment procedure and specs in the glovebox for them, if only they'd bothered to read them! Nek minnit they were under the rear of the car squinting and arguing amongst themselves ? I suggested they keep the bill (eg give me a refund) and I'd find a shop that could actually do an alignment, and we settled on that. A lot of places don't do the rear as a matter of course, sadly. Not to mention the latest kit has a screen with pictures showing where, how, and towque specs for the specific car to the operator during the procedure. No excuses.

I saw Fb ad with a Marlborough rental company selling off what seemed to mostly Ducati Scrambler's (various types)... so if you're in the market for a Desert Sled or similar you could be quids in!

P&S automotive or BM workshop Grey Lynn are also good places to go

@Michael cheers! I’m pretty fussy so tend to go overboard on builds... re exh wrap I tend to agree. Usually I HPC on my race and drag cars. But as a road car the cert man wanted it as a heatsheild for the steering column so I’ve had to do it. It might not stay on there long term

Wow what a beauty. Seems like a fair price all things considered. Best of luck with the sale!

I remember going for a ride in a 528i F10, I was amazed at how four cylinder like it felt in a cheap way. Definitely didn't give off that quality BMW feel of old like an E39 525i would have, even if it's slower. Can't beat the harmonics, vibration and 120 deg power stroke interval a straight six provides, it's 180 degrees per power stroke in a four cylinder, significantly more lumpy!

what do you (people) do with the hardtop if you want to take it off on a nice day?

Nice. They're awesome cars "Have plans this year to go FBO and stage 2+" I've done this and wish I stopped at stage 1+. I'd recommend sticking with stage 1+ and enjoying it as a street car. Otherwise with the added maintenance, repairs, possible future WOF issues with going catless... you'll wish you just bought an E92 M3 or even an F82 M4 instead

I'm a sad sack and track the M5 market... this vehicle was previously advertised with 'tuned to 680HP' ? Necessary? No. Good idea? No.

Back on the road post-lockdown. As per last post I was having a challenge bleeding the clutch. Tried pumping clutch method (till my son and wife got fed up), reverse bleed, vacuum bleed and power bleed (thanks Nick from Weitz Ind. for the loan) but just couldn’t get all the air out and good pressure. So I ordered a replacement slave (waited a week from FCP), installed and still no improvement! So ordered new flexible hose into the slave, master cylinder from FCP (another week) and inlet hose and connector locally (Level2). Once I got the master out it was obviously toast with gaiter torn and weeping. Followed an excellent diy on how to replace the master and clean/re-lube the pedal assembly https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?785827-Clutch-Master-Cylinder-Replacement-amp-Creaky-Pedal-Fix-DIY It is a real fiddly job in an awkward place. Having the drivers seat out imo made it a lot easier. Used the power bleeder, so easy to use just put a bottle of Castrol Dot4 in container, Connect to reservoir, pump up to 20psi, connect hose and catch-can to slave, open nipple, wait until fluid comes through and no air. Done. While waiting for parts I had collected some replacement door cards from Pick-a-part. They were from a 98’ coupe in grey, had a crack but otherwise great condition with no separation and pockets sound. Plastic top rails were broken but I had sourced some alloy replacements ex-Turtle Labs. Cleaned, repaired and painted the cards. Once we got to Level3 I was able to drop off to Master Trim here in Hamilton. I also dropped in the drivers seat which was well worn, separating and shabby. I sourced the material out of Arizona when I was in SoCal last year. While I had the seat out I removed the passenger seat as well and gave the carpets and seats a good clean. Master Trim had them back to me inside a week and what an improvement. Turtle’s recommendation is to place the top rail in its door clips apply the adhesive to the rail and I used Ados High Performance Adhesive Sealant which is flexible, handles heat and similar that used for mounting windscreens. Based on my research should do the job. Interior looks great now and even has that new car smell. Makes such a difference.

Got some faceballs messenger requests about this, so have a video.