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Got 3 hours to chuck her in and first start up

If you like to gamble https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/bmw/auction-2586419893.htm?rsqid=12c9cf1f91ef4afbb93faa80ce048943-002

in 1:43 scale?

Fixed ?

Sorry to randomly hijack, but is this the same car? Can only make a few letters of the reg out and looks to be the same given the description of the paint etc.

Or vastly different climates and driving conditions. I'd be chucking aside a big wad of cash if that work hadnt been done already at those kms.

Maybe we just drive the cars 1.6 times harder.

155km on an N54/N55 with no history of turbo, hpfp, injectors, coils or trans service. Lol, good luck.

Case in point. Just today I paid $27 for a pair of 'wash pump strainers' (9 on the pic) tiny little plastic cage with a rubber grommet attached. They are listed all over the world for about $3 each. They had them in stock and the service was good which is some consolation. The dealers in the UK were not cheap by any stretch, but still wasn't a steep as here. That said, I've had some success here cutting the odd deal or two when it was recognized that the pricing may be a little bit wide of the mark (timing chain tensioner! and a few other odds and ends). The dealer I've used here is actually nice and polite with good service, whereas almost every dealer in the UK I ever went to was arrogant as hell and pretty much laughed as they took my money in glee. Then strangely other things like DOT4 LV seem priced like 'normal'. Mileage definitely varies.

Nice. I have a Porsche Cayenne Turbo of the same era with a failed timing chain. Its not cost effective to fix, so I'm parting it out. I believe the Q7, Cayenne and Touraeg share a lot of parts. If you need any parts the three models share, drop me a line. I often used a Q7 V6 diesel rental through Hertz when holidaying in Australia. Great long distance runners. Typical Aussie highways at 110kmh will see 6.2l/100km and I'd usually average mid 7s the whole time. Awesome economy for what the car is.

^ reasonably hi-spec hi risk hi reward item. bargaining should be possible in this climate.

https://www.trademe.co.nz/Members/Listings.aspx?member=2526756&cid=347

I had RE003s on the E39 - great but were expensive at the time. I put LK01s on the M135i and drove them for months, then changed wheels and put on RE003s and felt no noticeable difference tbh They are the made in indonesia version of hankooks. Road nose, dry weather grip both excellent. Wet weather grip - absolutely fine but Im no racecar driver. I did have to drive through the Karangahake Gorge during a torrential downpour with wipers going full speed and i had no issues at all. For half the price of RE003s, you could try them out and see if you like them. If not then flick them on (to me) and go get some PS4S or something :p

+1 close this thread and move on. we have better things to discuss

Can you do 225/245 on the rim widths you have? Next sushi cafe meet need to swap keys for 5 min and compare setups

They are good but as Dave said, can be quite loud on the road. My absolute best budget tyre recommendation is the Laufenn LK01. around $600 for a set of 18s or $500 for a set of 17s is way too good of a price

I know I'm biased, but the Z3's are great fun. Especially a 3.0L even in auto. High smiles per miles factor. There is 1 Z3 3.0L manual in Auckland somewhere. Its the only one I've seen in 6 years of looking. All the rest are auto's.

A 130i with some $$ to spare for a decent LSD would be the sweet spot for that sort of money in my opinion

thread needs more links https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/bmw/auction-2636584223.htm?rsqid=48d2593e7b2b4380a74d77fb1a2ee47b-001

After trying some Hankook Ventus Prime 3's I put a set on the back of my E36. They are a touring tyre rather than an outright performance tyre but they are progressive as they start to let go, braking performance is pretty good and they are good in the wet. I got 2 x 245 40 17's for less than $400 from Cannon Point Motors in Upper Hutt. I normally just look for the deal on RE003s as they are a really good tyre for the money but I had 3 vehicles to buy tyres for so the Hankooks won the cheque book race.

Plenty of tyre stock in the background there for "testing".

@HalfJobHarry makes a good point though, and I can see both sides. Learning to do the work on your own car is rewarding and a money saver, as long as you do it properly and with proper parts. Then there are some jobs best left to the professionals. And finally, there are always idiots out there like Glenn and others have given examples of.

Without more info pretty hard to suggest any model but an easy recommendation these days is the E87 130i hatchback. Otherwise an E91 325i wagon is also a nice all rounder. Or an E90 330i sedan. Always go for an M Sport varient. If you want something quick and have deep pockets for repairs/maintenance 335i coupes can be had for around 10k but budget another $5k in repairs for the next year just incase. If you want something bigger, something like a tidy E39 530i is great if you can find one otherwise an E60/E61 530/540/545's are a great option, diesel options also available.

Yes it was. Modified too with heaps of special accessories......Battery cover delete, unsafe battery jumper leads, a bottle of peak coolant and 2 bottles of SAE40 engine oil. I also forgot to mention that the repairer had also mislaid the lock nut

Sounds a bit like a situation we had - Woman comes in wanting a headlight bulb replaced which we do for $20, but turns out she can't pay but will come back next week to pay it instead. 3 weeks later a car drives onto the premise at lunch time and parks in the middle of the driveway for a bit but everyone ignores it due to the break, so it pulls into the workshop and beeps the horn instead. Boss comes down and recognizes the woman, tells her this ain't a McDonalds drive thru service and we are on our break. She ends up wanting a quote for some other work, but when brings up the $20 she was suppose to pay 3 weeks ago she has all the excuses in the world. Boss tells her to keep the $20 and never come back. Daughter leaves a bad Google review saying how rudely she was treated. Just ringing around finding parts and getting the part prices etc can actually be quite time consuming (especially multiple parts). In some other professions that would be the equivalent of a short consultation and they would probably charge you.

Fair enough, although there's 2 oil filter housing gaskets and it's a fiddly wee job trying not to spill coolant everywhere Doesn't cover the cost of fixing other people's laziness or inability to complete basic servicing for free, especially when they never purchased anything from the dealer. It's a weekly occurrence, "had my car serviced elsewhere a d they cant make this light go away, can you do it for free?" Dealers will survive on warranty and service plan work. It's the middle of the range workshops that will suffer, just like all the building and civil sub contractors that fall off because people want the cheapest price on stuff

Nice. Ms4x flasher is a lot nicer and user friendly. I don't think galletto corrects checksums automatically, could be the problem of your full write error. Ms4x flasher is better anyway. What was the end result ?

After alot of trial and error I have finally got it sorted. I managed to get galletto working for the 64k file quite easily. But writing the full 512k caused me abit of problem. Alot of the flashing tools out there are seen by windows 10 as a threat. In the end I downloaded ms4x flasher on my phone , then transferred the file to a laptop and then changed the settings in "Windows Security > Virus & threat protection." To allow the exe file to be opened. If you dont allow the file in "windows threat protection" windows deletes it everytime you open it. Anyway I have now had a good play with both a ms42 and ms43 dme. I got a couple dme's from wreaked cars as I was a bit worried about bricking mine. Used my sons 320i as Guinea pig, got access to a friends dyno over the lockdown and began the learning processes. I was pretty happy with the end result.

Just thought I would post this up for all you DIYers. I compiled this a little while ago. It doesnt cover everthing, however it may help someone out there. Diagnostic Overvue I have compiled this overvue to help DIY repairers and Profesional people alike. The diagnosing of repairs can vary dependant on the actual fault, however this is a procedure that most should follow. In most cases specialist equipment is required and most DIY people don't have access to this type of equipment. It is also likely in most cases that professional help would be needed to sort out problems. This overvue can be used on any vehicle…not just BMW's. Not much can be decifered on pre '88 vehicles without the 20 pin diagnostic plug, without the use of a scope and gas analyser, dependant on what the fault is. After '88 things get a little better untill you get to about '93 and then things get better and continue to get better as time goes on. Generally there is not much that the average person can do when a fault occurs, apart from open the bonnet and check for the obvious, broken induction & vaccum hoses, spark plug leads, fuel leaks, loose connections etc. etc. All fuel injected vehicles rely on manifold vacuum as a source for DME function. Regardless of it being MAP, AFM or MAF sensored. Therefore, manifold vacuum is critical for the engine to function properly. Air leaks from hoses, gaskets, crankcase ventilator valves, tight tappets and burnt valves will effect the manifold vacuum, which inturn creates a problem for the whole system. The first thing to do when approaching a problem, is look for the obvious, and try and think if there is any relation to what has happened when you last drove it ie: did you just fill your car with petrol (diesel ???) sounds stupid… but it does happen. Did you drive through a 500mm puddle at speed ?? Things like that, because they could have a bearing on what you need to look for. I grill customers all the time. This helps me help them. If the car stopped while driving it generally is a fuel problem, crankshaft speed sensor or a cambelt. If the car has an irregular driving fault, diagnosis of the problem should be approached in this manor: First do an under bonnet check of all induction hoses, vaccum hoses and check crankcase vacuum by checking how much suction there is when you release the oil filler cap. If vacuum is excessive, it will be a crankcase ventilator valve problem. Check the obvious, spark plugs, leads, distributor cap, rotor etc etc If there is nothing obvious, I would then get it scanned before fiddling. ( Fiddlers are our biggest enemy) Check engine compression If compression is not within 5% check valve clearances Compression should be a minimum of 11 bar Check for spark at the spark plug Then check for spark at the coil (coils) Fuel pressure 2.5 bar with vacuum 3 bar with no vacuum Flow is also critical, you can have pressure without flow Check injector pulse signal On all injectors Manifold vacuum Minimum of 16 and stable If manifold vacuum is not correct then check: Check for air leaks A can of engine start can help find leaks Cylinder leak test All cylinders should be within 95% and should not vary by more than 5% Check camshaft timing Should not change on chain driven engines under normal conditions unless this fault has occurred since work has been done on the engine Make sure TDC mark on front pulley is actually TDC Confirm with flywheel lock tool or a piece of wire down the spark plug hole. Especially with front pulley crankshaft sensors In most cases the above checks cannot be done by the average DIY'er because you wont have the tools or the knowledge to use them I might add also that some so called professionals don't either These above checks are basic for any engine , Timing, Compression, Spark, Vacuum & Fuel. However it must all come together at the right time. SCANNING First I'd just like to say that a scanner is just a very useful tool. Some are good, some arent so good. Some are better on Japanese cars, some are better on Euro cars. This isn't going to be a scan tool buyers guide, however I will say that scan tools are friggen useless, unless you have the mechanical understanding and a brain. You will also need precise vehicle data to make accurate assessment of the data your reading. You will also need to understand what you are reading and relate that data to the driveability fault you are dealing with. Putting it into perspective, I repair doctors cars because they can't fix their cars. Put me into a doctors surgery with all the necessary tools and data, could I repair you ?? I think not.. A lot comes down to training and experience. That’s why there are good and not so good technicians out there. Most fault codes relate to actual sensor faults. ie: Camshaft position sensor Crankshaft position sensor Camshaft position sensor (inlet) Camshaft position sensor (outlet) However, some fault codes are the result of something else wrong, causing a fault code to come up from a sensor that actually is doing it's job properly, but has gone out of scale (trim). Air mass sensors are a prime example of this occurance. An air mass sensor will not normally come up as a fault code unless it fails completely, and the car won't go. If it is reading incorrectly and out of scale, you will get an oxy sensor fault code relating to fuel trim limit reached. Driving the car with the scanner using live data will confirm this. Blocked cats will give you the same problem because the engine can't breath, so will collapsed crankcase ventilator valves and broken induction hoses. Most of these faults will register an oxy sensor trim fault. Oxygen Sensor (Heater coil) would either be the relay or the oxygen sensor itself Engine missfire cyl (1-6) can be many things Igntion coil missfire cyl(1-6) is normally a spark plug, faulty coil or wiring fault Combustion missfire cyl(1-6) on M52tu & M54 engines normally indicates hydraulic lifter fault Again, live data must be checked, particularly engine dynamic balance. Measured differently on most scanners. Remember this is only an overvue. Most individual engine models have their own idiosyncrasies and I can't cover everything on here. However, this should help or give you some idea of what is involved in checking faults PLEASE BE AWARE.. OUR BIGGEST ENEMIES ARE "FIDDLERS" Never fiddle, or replace anything unless you have properly diagnosed the fault first. You will waste money and time. If you don't have the ability or access to the right equipment, consult a professional.