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Date: 10 Jul 2020 Distance: 261xxxkms 1. Cluster Service. It's fun removing the cluster from the car; even more fun stripping it down. Remember which screw goes where. Brake Pad Warning Lamp Re-flow soldered the contacts on the cluster circuit board that causes the Brake Pad Warning Lamp to go on intermittently, or stay 'hi'. Barry had kindly hidden this with some black tape as a temporary blind; it was time to fix it. If you want more details, a handy guide is here on e30 Zone. Odometer Gears. Barry had done this before, so I held the tools and assisted where I could. We replaced the gears just in time, they crumbled as we disassembled it, and installed a new set of Garagistic metric odo gears for the VDO cluster. Naked cluster, packet of Garagistic VDO km gears awaiting install. Old gears crumbled in our hands. Tacho retro-fit I attempted to fit a tacho in place of the clock, but found my povo-spec cluster lacked the right contacts. I also tried putting my speedo into the spare (earlier) cluster board, and then putting that into my own casing - but they were incompatible. The spare cluster had been damaged in transit (note to self: always inspect freight when it arrives!)... so I ended up re-fitting No tacho contacts there, then! I had to run to REPCO for some 5-minute Araldite to repair my lower dash panel above the pedals - I'd missed the 'middle' snap screw. Reinforced it with araldite, just like a bought one. Big shout out to @Autoglym, we had fun applying these fixes. 2. M42 Prep. I picked up a big box yesterday, M40 upper and lower oil pan and pickup, engine supports, dipstick and tube. Today I unpacked them, sprayed on a s#!t ton of citrus degreaser, and then steam-cleaned them. Flash eh? M40 parts after a scrub and steam clean. Lower Oil Pan (left), Upper Oil Pan (right), M40 engine support arms, and (Enis) the dipstick. After steam cleaning, 3. M40B16 experiment Prep. Most will file under 'why would you bother', though Jon and I have wondered aloud a few times if running the M40B18 intake manifold, throttle body, (and boot), might elicit just a little more 'go' from the 1600cc M40B16. The larger-bore throttle body might help with HP, and the longer runners might help with the torque. It's worth a crack, anyway. These parts were included in the big box of M40 parts. Should I do it? Well, when you've only got 102hp (assuming none have escaped over the years), a few more would be most welcome! I'll have a try soon. Big shout out to Cam @Southerner, legendary Bimmersporter if you're trading, and he packages very well - thanks mate!

Eliongater to the rescue! All the pics should be there in glorious colour now

Thanks guys, I picked these up last weekend from the same guy listed above, seems he knows wreckers and sells on Recaros that come up, doesn’t ask the earth for them either, got these for $500 no rips or bolster wear

Had some time today, so swapped in the rest of the coils. Seems like it's running a bit smoother, and pulling more through the rev range. Might be placebo effect ? Old coils I tried to date and looks like they were not originals but definitely at least several years old from what I could get from the manufacturers numbers on a couple of them. The rubber boots on the new coils were much softer and flexible so a sign they had been in there a while. I also took the time to clean the engine bay plastics since I'd been in there a few times in the last month or so, hopefully this is the last time for while that I'm in there. I only took a photo of the engine cover which I cleaned first, the back half that's normally covered on it was particularly bad, cleaned up quite nicely.

get a room fellas

Just an update with this. Thanks for all the interest, an offer has been accepted subject to viewing/collection this weekend.

should be possible to replace the rear lower plate surround panel on the boot lid (saw this on M539 Restorations on YT) for the full euro-spec experience. looking good!

Yes, more local storage is the solution for @Driftit and once the VM is built it can be distributed (responsibly, for redundancy and backup purposes only, to be tested regularly). Remote support is easy these days should it be required when building the image.

Paddle wiring was delayed until next weekend to ensure we have enough time to complete, without competing priorities. So instead, today I added a euro number plate surround to the front bumper plate carrier. I also installed my brand new air con tube, once and for all removing engine bay smells from the cabin.

Thanks a lot to those who have replied so far! Re: My car is a NZ new, bought from my local dealership. I knew that there was a retrofit option but if that's the case, then the configurator is hella inaccurate... I've included a screenshot of the NZ configurator (configurator page is redirected straight from BMW NZ's website) which doesn't call it a pre-wiring/preparation option. Cheers!

Sideways Sid goes hard

I was thinking we keep it 10. https://www.bimmerdiagnostics.com/ do a one click install that works on all platforms for 15 quid. Though I could imagine all the different cables could cause an issue. I will have a play around and see if I can get it working locally first. My VM knowledge is limited though.

On Fanshawe?

Next one is 1m. PS, that was me 'braaap' past you just before?!?

Maybe you could message this guy? Look to be in very good condition so well worth the price!

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