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Showing content with the highest reputation on 08/16/2018 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    I beg to differ, Kyu. Freight forwarding is fairly straightforward, so one should naturally expect a range of service running from ‘good’ to ‘great’. These threads are useful to establish how far outside of that range some of the operators are. Not everyone enjoys my favoured provider, MyUS. I’ve never seen a bad word in print about shipitto. On the other hand, the regularity of people reporting disfavorable - or even plain dreadful - Service from YouShop is impossible to ignore. As you say - know what to expect? In closing, I’d suggest nothing about standard freight forwarding is special, unless there’s exceptional service. 🙂
  2. 2 points
    Jebus you will argue about anything, won't you Dave? You're getting as bad as Ron these days. You need to chill out a bit eh, can't be good for your blood pressure. That blue one has the rare ///M fabric interior. MUCH better than full leather IMO The yellow one has been through heaps of owners in the past year or two, including iirc Brent. Last i saw it was forsale down here for about 20k before it was stacked. The wheels on the grey one do it no favours, they look so weak on it, and the lowering on the silver one makes it look a bit dumb. The blue one would be my jam.
  3. 1 point
    Here's is a link to Part 1 http://bimmersport.co.nz/topic/43521-m3-evo-32-1997-hackar/ So here's a reminder of what I'm up to Dec 2014 My baby up in the garage on my Christmas present to myself (QuickJack 3500) Motor supported At this point the jobs not done, but thanks to Google and BMW forums thing are moving along. I'm not in a hurry but here's the progress so far. The gearbox is out, Clutch and Flywheel as well. Perfect timing, while I'm at it I'll replace all the gear shifter bushes as well. Can you guess what these are. Big thanks to Rockwell for saving me so close to Christmas Bolt layout and sizes, I spent 3hrs with torch on head, mirror in mouth lying on back towards the rear of the car trying to get the top left bolt out (miss info from net on size) The 14mm at 9 o'clock was pain 5 shops and I couldn't find a wobble head to work. Had to really lower the engine even more. Looking up her skirt Secondary air pump oil leak (gone now) Rod bearings replaced and ARP bolts installed, the old shells had approx 100k on them but looked fine. Dismantled the oil pump, no sign off wear. Don't forget to pack it full with vaseline so it's primed if you don't it may not pick up the oil in the sump. Remove fuel pump fuse or remove coil pack so the car won't fire/start. Starting the car for the first time was the most terrifying part, turn the car over for 5-7 seconds approx 6-10 times and breath again when you see the oil pressure get to a safe level.(remembering I have an oil pressure gauge installed) Lower chain tensioner wear, decided while it's open I'll replace it. while waiting for the new part to arrive. I grabbed front and rear reinforcement plate kits I had and welded them in. Below the old and the new, as well as the tool I made for removing and installing the clip shown. A piece of flat bar, shaped as you see to remove, slotted on top to install second picture down. On the net the DIYs say that the front cover has to be removed. I did mine from underneath, it is tight up there. Here's the trick the metal springs/lever is actually two levers separate them and have a look. Put it back together, but. Leave the low one out 60% but so it's still under the other. Install the bracket on the pin and manipulate/slide the upper lever into place. Once the upper lever is in place you just have to push the second lever up and it's guided into place by the first lever............... The will make sense I promise Feb 2015 Dual pickup fuel pumps, along the lines of the Pumpkin setup. This pump sit in the passenger side tank with the engine return feeding into the filter. This pump then feeds fuel to the engine pickup pump sump. Finished product, does it work as of 2017 I haven't had a chance to see. Just some notes after multiple attempts at trying to get the fuel gauge to work constantly I gave up. It works most of the time, but now I also use the trip meter as a back up. Brought a 20 ton press New Ball joints for my front control arm, they deserve them after 170km Nov 2015 235 x 40 x 17 R888 (god I love the smell of new rubber) Jan 2016 Made myself a String Alignment Box, why New Tie Rods Digital C/C Gauge w AccuLevel™ and Quick Set™ LW Adapter Bottom line ..... if I had a pit it would be great, my car is to low for me to adjust the toe without jacking. Easier just to take it to an Alignment shop. Jun 2016 After my weak performances at Hampton Downs in Jan & Feb driver training, I gave up trying to diagnose the problem. Booked into Gavin's he's the man, he did his magic and now we've cracked the 200 (ye baby) 2017 update got a chance to get back on HD now because of conditions no lap records were set but, I ran out of 3rd gear leading up to the big sweeper and changed into 4th only a quarter of the way up the hill on the front straight. But interestingly still only managed 193km at end of the front straight taken from GPS (speedo read 200km) Package from Ground Control, upgraded to adjustable Race inserts and a pair of adjustable rear control arms. Now you know why, both the front and rear passenger side shocks were leaking During the changeover I found this a small crack, I believe it is from me adjusting the camber and with the camber plate sitting on that weld it gave way. I've ground down the weld, but I wasn't allowed to do the repair welding as the expert didn't trust me. I found my old tower reinforcement plates and modified them to allow for full camber adjustment. Why didnt do this previously I don't know Aug 2017 RallyRoad front strut bar and rear end Black Powerflex bushes. RallyRoad strut bar installed not the 5 min job I thought. Needed to order the special nuts and had to trim them as they sat proud. (sorry the part # for the nuts is missing forum change platforms and lost most of my writeups) Rear end removed, time to install the Powerflex Black Bushes Tried the drilling out.............smelly and messy Went back to the 20 ton press, gave up the first time because of some of the fun angles and packing I tried seemed dangerous. Second time was just as scary, I hid round the corner a few times. When fitting the GC adjustable control arms, I needed to adjust both the lower bush and the control arm opening so it didn't bind. Replaced my boot loom, don't remember what I had in the write up sorry. Thanks to Dave (M3AN) as I said to you didn't need to provide me with a new loom but it is appreciated. Sep 2016 I know it's not Christmas or did it just come early. But these were listed on Trademe for the second time this time I had to have them. Recaro CS Sportsters full leather, heat........................ Weight saving only 12kgs total As these are not standard BMW E36 M3 seats here in NZ you need to get any modification Certified, including my rear adjustable control arms. The first certifier I went to was a total num nuts. His requirements, required me sending numerous emails to recaro germany, spending days fabbing up slider releases (which I got to work) But I was still 15mm short of exist distance on the drivers side and germany wasn't helping with the other request removal of airbags. In the end I rang Wellington spoke to LVVTA, then went to another certifier all the above was a waste of time and stress. If it doesn't sound right just call Wellington it's worth it. Just for the record no 95% of aftermarket seat mounts/sliders are not certified, which means you cannot mount your safety belts to them. All modifications Certified, I got my little piece of paper and cert plaque riveted in my engine bay Below give you an idea of what's required, you will need to go to LVV site download the H template and instructions to work out your individual seat belt receiver location and height. Lower/Upper Plates were from Auckland Seat Belts, in Glenfield. They sell them as a kit. Needed a spacer H points marked Airbag occupancy light removal: no dash light, air bags are always active. March 2017 During regular maintenance back 2016, I came across some oil in my Plenum. So for Christmas I got a ECS oil catch can So decided to remove the plenum, check the throttle butterflies and install the ECS oil catch. (You may also notice the Power pulleys from ECS as well, but they manufactured for TMS which don't fit Euros. Well the power steering does and is now fitted.) On inspection 1-2-3 were dirty but 4-5-6 butterflies were a real mess. Throttle body cleaner and toothbrush to the rescue. The vanish in 4-5-6 was impossible to remove. Location of catch can I cleaned the IRV and oil separator, replacing the hose # 5 as it was very mushy. As you can see I have left the OS in place and have just added the catch can inline. Routing the hoses was fun setting the hose clips, so they didn't rub or impede putting the plenum back on took a couple of tries. This was a resolute of plastic fatigue not a hose clip for a coolant hose on the back of the plenum and me having too much spinach. Many thanks to Aronn for sending up his spare. Means I'm driving my baby 7 days early. Installed, will update after a few Kms, late April update I have not removed the lower canister, but after approx 700ks and a driver training day there is no sign of oil on the dipstick. At the last monthly coffee meet, I mentioned to the guys that even though I loved the sound of my car. I was driving like a nanny because it drew to much attention. Here's my first attempt, start with the tail pipe got some silencer packing cut it to fit the inside made a cage and slipped it in. I couldn't get the cage to fold nicely around the ends so just cut out a panel and fitted it in. Result: did take the edge of the exhaust tone. UPDATE..... April 2017 driver training, blow the cage and packing out of the tail pipe Next idea, now I know that Scorpion exhausts are guaranteed for life but mines dated 23-99 so I thought maybe the silencer/sound packing had maybe disintegrated. I did some research ordered 3 x Acousta-Fil Boa bags from GB @ $18 each NZ, $100 with delivery.(once again NZ company did themselves out of a sale $69 a bag) A bag of 35mm stainless steel plugs and borrowed a mini camera. Here's where I'm going in I couldn't believe how much packing I got out, took a couple of hours. I had to make up some hook tools. So much for the silencer packing being disintegrated Used all three bags, inserted the plug with some high temperature silicone. June Was looking at CAE & RTD shifters online a month ago. Then blow me down a RTD was put up for sale on here... Couldn't help myself. Spent some time trying to contact the manufacturer. So I could buy the RTD DSSR ,spoke with John he recommended just going with UUC. Installing was a PITA only because I know better than most (right) and installed both pieces with the exhaust and drive shaft still in place. It's tight under there and the tolerances are also amazing. I needed to remove the gear selector input shaft joint and sand the bush slightly to get fit the DSSR to fit. Reinstalled the DSSR, then spent a couple of hours trying to get the DSSR and RTD lower arm to match up for the connecting pin I could get it within 1.5mm I ended up making a temp pin approx 0.5 smaller with the leading edge chamfered. Got it back together went for a drive but got the first base location wrong couldn't get into 2,4,6th. The bolt on the hazard light end of the base only just catches the base plate. The OEM knob sits slightly skewed to the left. Time for a drive up around the bays, interesting totally different from standard very precise you need to shift quickly when I shifted at a leisurely pace I'd get lost Drivers training in 2 weeks need to work on the muscle memory till then Driver training after a dozen emergency braking exercises I once again lost 2nd, 4th and 6th gear. On inspection I cannot tell if the units base has moved. I'm guessing as the fixing locations are maxed out, once things hot up it moves outside of useable tolerance. July Keeping to my philosophy of there must be an easier way............... e.g. not removing exhaust, driveshaft etc to remove shifter Tools I adapted to reach nuts from inside the cabin. With the base in place. Marks on tunnel not centred misaligned offset to the left I forgot to take photos, one day. So the plan was as above extend both top slots and angle them slightly to centre base, just slotted them as above. Didn't extend the sides but extended the rear nose (now a closed in slot) and have had washers and nut bases welded together to reinforce the tunnel sheet metal. Upsized the nuts and bolts to from 6mm to 8mm. Also made reassembly from inside the cabin a breeze. I have only cruised around Devo, but changing gear, finding gears is much easier. But won't know if the reason I did this works till some spirited driving is done. (see update below) Dec 2017 Coolant flush and new thermostat. 29th Dec driver training. Good stuff first, RTD shifter is superb. I love it . As always 1st session was just a shake down, second session pushed a little harder 1.19:5 but then sad to say only lasted 1/4 of the 3rd session before this happened Damaged my radiator, rad shroud, fan and oil cooler lines. Waiting now on parts These arrived today Vibra-Technics BMW362MX Removed Poly Engine mounts Well a picture or two are worth a thousand words: No heat shield to speak of (top right), the poor old passengers side bolt & plate have moved under the strain. New parts in waiting, over the top heat shield for drivers side engine mount. Think I'm going to have to strap it in place. Feb 2018 Installed finally, engine mounts, uprated heat shield drivers side, oil cooler pipes(4wk wait) radiator including mounts, vent pipe, fan and shroud. As a precaution after the failure of the engine mounts, I loosened the gearbox cross member and gearbox mounts and re-adjusted them. May New Crankshaft sensor August Driver training on Sat 11th at Hampton Downs was existing to say the least. New Best Lap 1.17.7 On the next lap this happened at the turn in of Turn 4, poor RacingBrake.com couldn't handle it. The RacingBrake front rotor exploded.
  4. 1 point
    http://bimmersport.co.nz/topic/51595-m3-evo-32-1997-hackar-part-2/
  5. 1 point
    My bar and wiring kit may be coming up for sale in the near future if you are interested. The tongue i've got is the inch an seven eigths size, but you can buy a 50mm version for it if that's what you need.
  6. 1 point
    Nice. Love a Techwan, IMHO Tech I > Tech II. Car has a couple of non-standard parts, but listing says he has the spoiler, wheels, etc. to put it back to factory standard so that's no big problem. Would love to add a Tech I 325i to my garage, but no room at the inn, bugger.
  7. 1 point
    Fair enough, I usually end up paying a guy for most of my stuff as well. No shame there.
  8. 1 point
    Another in the theme of 70's Concept Cars, check out all this goodness of the decade of decadence... More info and pictures in this article here... https://www.motor1.com/photo/3173468/1972-bmw-turbo-concept1972-bmw-turbo-concept/
  9. 1 point
    the interior on the blue one is nice, have seen it in real life and its special indeed. The black one would have been nice too but the welds on the subframe cracks look weak. the lowered grey one I think looks nice to me but also dont like the lowering on it. factory height is best.
  10. 1 point
    pretty rare , i use a local bumper shop to fix them ,
  11. 1 point
    There is a good chance some of the owners dont actually want to sell their M3, and being vague with the TM listing is a good way of buying time while keeping the other half happy!
  12. 1 point
  13. 1 point
    Quibble, quibble, quibble. You should hop over to the Facebook market place, you’ll have a field day!
  14. 1 point
    These kinds of posts are pointless because each case is special and it certainly isnt going to be enough to deter anyone to use it. Just use with caution and know what to expect. I personally had a bad experience with youshop as they (without my knowledge or approval) combined two shipments from the same supplier that I ordered on two separate days one for myself one for a friend and they taxed me on the total value despite both orders being under threshhold if calculated individually. On the flipside, I know another who has saved hundreds of dollars on multiple small shipments costing only $10 to land with youshop rather than the usual $40-50 on UPS etc. Would I use youshop again? yes, I would. But it would totally depend on the value of goods, supplier, urgency, and other factor before I decide so.
  15. 1 point
    Damn, I still kinda want one as a weekend toy, but I'm too deep into the 335i to switch now. M3 for the weekend and a cheap commuter car for the week would be nice.
  16. 1 point
  17. 1 point
    2013 M3 PURE FIVE YEAR OWNERSHIP Stumbled across this post and figured I could add my two cents worth. Took delivery of my new M3 Pure, one of twenty, in 2013 and sold it a short while ago to avoid Phil Goff's tax. In deference to Tom, who obviously knows these cars well and much better than I do, I've made a couple of further observations of my own after running the car for 5 years. First, the good stuff, the engine... It can well pull the skin of a milk pudding and make a decent noise doing it in pretty damn fine comfort. Some reviews bagged the stereo, can't imagine why, never used it when driving and it seemed perfectly good at standstill. Honestly, if you rate this car on the stereo, you've got the wrong end of the stick completely and should get a Toyota Camry. It's certainly a smart looking vehicle without being too ostentatious or blingy, so you won't feel overly self-conscious driving around in it, although it's pretty intimidating at full noise. Seats four comfortably with a pretty generous boot too, skis through the middle of the back seats, which can fold down completely as well, so it will take lots of gear. Now some of the Ok stuff. The DCT does a wicked gear change, you couldn't do a manual change quicker, however it does clonk quite a lot along with the rear end (never bothered me, the manual refers to it), particularly at low speeds (e.g. intersections and parking manoeuvrers). After discovering the little rocker switch below the shift selector wasn't the stereo speaker balance, I always put it on 3 bars around town for pleasant tractability. Sure, it used gas, however I managed much better than Tom with 10litres/100Km on a 4,700km (ave 75km/h) trip around the South Island. Overall, I still got around 11.5 including city driving over 5 years and, believe me, it got the occasional caning. Besides, the entire thrill of this car is booting it from standstill and out of corners, not the theoretical top speed. Incidentally, trick for new players, the speedo goes in 20k increments to 120k, then 30k to 150/180 where you can find yourself in a remarkably short space of time! Tom's gas consumption might come from permanently using "M" mode, which has those funky gear change lights etc., but I found it mostly just used more gas and turned the steering leaden. I only used it on special occasions and on deserted roads, so not much, three bars was usually fine. Drivers who don’t bother manually changing down to overtake (i.e. most of us) will discover the DCT takes slightly longer to change than you would like, often causing a slightly alarming torque lurch when it does. For best results, change down yourself, but then you have to decide whether to indicate or not, so do what all euro drivers do and flick the wipers on instead. Finally, the bad stuff, the engine... this really is the worst thing about this car. The conspiracy theorists (American of course) have it that these engines are preprogramed to self-destruct within hours of coming out of warranty. Well, I can vouch for the fact that that is pretty much when the engine in my car started making disturbing noises, which got progressively worse over the next eighteen months. No problem, got a FIVE year extended warranty, haven’t I..? Well, it is a problem actually, because unless the thing actually blows up... they ain't going to fix it. Oh, they tried and tried for months with it in their workshop to fix it, but to no avail. I think the final conclusion, based on the combined wisdom of all the experts, was that it must be my fault... so take your car and sod off..! So, I did and, like Tom, I got rid of it. I totally echo Tom's sentiments upon trading in his M3 V8..!
  18. 1 point
    The only way to get your oil temp lower is a bigger or extra oil cooler. I have tried the BMS valve all it does is open earlier its not fix for multiple laps on track days.
  19. 1 point
  20. 1 point
    Is it true you own, or have owned, one set of every style BMW wheel ever manufactured?
  21. 1 point
    Well as per the picture above, my sump is not *quite* like the one in your pic. But the second hole on mine (the one with the 10 mm hex) looks remarkably like your Plug F. So as an update, I took that plug out. I was a bit unsure about it at first as some ATF came out when I first took it out, so I screwed it back in straight away for fear of losing even more fluid. But it turned out to be just a few drops left from after I had drained it via the other plug D. Anyways I tried my Plan A, which was to fill the Tomato Sauce bottle (with nozzle), then jam the nylex tube on the nozzle [see pic] Then push the tube up into Plug F, making sure it has some 'curl' on it, so it loops over. Then invert the bottle and squeeze. A couple of times you need to gently pull the nylex off the nozzle to allow some air back into the bottle. It only took about 1.5 litres so I might need to run it through the gears then top it up some more.
  22. 1 point
    Poke a hole in the lid of the ATF container and poke a 2-3 meter bit of hose through the hole (make the fit as tight as possible). Poke the hose in till it touches the bottom of the container. Poke another small hole in the top of the container somewhere and pressurise it with an air compressor, magically ATF will come out the end of the hose. Don't apply too much pressure or you and your garage and everything else around it will wear it. Best to do it with an air duster and just pulse the trigger. you only need a little bit of pressure to get the fluid pumping. If you manage to blow the container up you're an idiot and shouldnt be allowed under a car and make sure you post some photos so we can laugh. While filling be ready to pull the hose out of the ATF fluid to stop the flow. Pretty rangi but its heaps faster than a syringe.
  23. 1 point
    Your Jatco transmission needs G3 full synthetic. I would also suggest you replace the filter and pan gasket as well. After removing the filter, let it drain for at least half an hour to get most of the oil out of the torque convertor and valve body. You will need between 4 & 6 litres and a hand pump to put it in the gearbox. After filling it (while the car is running) run it through the gears and recheck level. Then road test and recheck level. The process is best done on a hoist or on 4 axle stands
  24. 0 points
    Today, Thursday morning on the cycle path under the Mangere Bridge
  25. 0 points
    Well guys Driver training on Sat 11th at Hampton Downs was existing to say the least. (More photo on my project page)
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