Jump to content

warrenp

Members
  • Content count

    26
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

3 Neutral

About warrenp

  • Rank
    1st Gear
  • Birthday 01/21/1975

Previous Fields

  • Name
    Warren Preiss
  • Location
    Featherston, Wairarapa
  • Car
    2003 530i Touring

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://
  • ICQ
    0

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male

Recent Profile Visitors

743 profile views
  1. I've labeled the wires that go into the amp from the mute box, they are the same colour as the ones that attach to the cut off wires that originally go into the amp. I should add, they didn't piggyback, they cut the wires and directed them to the mute box and then back out to the amp. They are in pairs: The unit's white and white/black stripe wires go to: yellow/red stripe and yellow/brown stripe The unit's green and green/black stripe go to: yellow/purple stripe and yellow/gray stripe The unit's purple and purple/black stripe go to: blue/purple stripe and blue/tan stripe The unit's grey and grey/black stripe go to: turquoise/red stripe and turquoise/brown stripe I've sellotaped the colour codes to the wires as well (the ones that go back into the amp). Then the red fused wire to the unit (the mute box) piggybacks to the thick red/green wire going into the amp (same group plug as the other wires) The black wire (with the metal crimp connection) going into the unit (mute box) piggybacks onto the thick brown wire going into the amp (in the same group plug again) If you can't figure out where to connect the blue fused wire let me know and I will get in under the CD stacker and see what it connects to. All the best for wiring it up!
  2. I am labeling with sellotape each wire in the bunch of 8 in and 8 out with the dual colour code of each wire it piggybacks onto. If your amp has the same coloured wires as mine this should make it fairly easy to install.
  3. Hi Brent I'll just post some pics of the wiring here so you can give me the all clear to cut the unit's wires that are piggybacking onto my my 'amp in' wires before I send it to you. Which wires connect to which looks very complicated to me but maybe you know more about this than I do! The unit seems to be getting power by the blue and red (red being connected to the amp) fused wires, with the blue one coming up from behind the CD stacker (I can trace that one back to see where it is coming from if you would like). The unit sends its audio signal into the amp via jumping onto those other wires going into the amp. If I can, I will cut the wires so you can see which colour wires they are piggybacking onto, but I also need enough wire to reconnect my original wires back into my amp. If this looks too much of a nightmare, no worries if you'd rather not buy it! Otherwise I will pm you my bank details for $60 including post. Up to you!
  4. I just pulled a Parrot CK3000 kit from my 2003 530i touring that I just purchased. I can show you exactly which wires to connect it to if you have the same car. Includes all the parts. Main box, microphone, wiring, connector to where it wires up on the amp, little button piece that clips onto your dash. I cut the wires in the middles to save pulling the car to bits to get them out so they would need to be soldered at the point I cut them. $50 plus post sound fair? Or make me an offer. Going on trademe new from $175 to $249.
  5. Thanks Jared. I did it with an old handsaw. It had a hole in about the right place at the end so I anglegrinded an indent to about the same shape as the OEM tool. Worked like a charm. If anyone in Wairarapa region needs it let me know.
  6. I was thinking of making the tool with a piece of metal and an anglegrinder and drill etc.. Is this how you would do it? The hammer approach didn't work. I think this nut has perhaps never been removed.
  7. Which means I turn it clockwise (top of spanner moving to the right) when facing the engine correct? Just to be sure!
  8. warrenp

    Official Tools for Hire Thread

    Thanks Gabe, I made the tool out of an old handsaw. It had a hole in about the right place at the end so I anglegrinded an indent to about the same shape as the OEM tool. Worked like a charm. If anyone in Wairarapa region needs it let me know.
  9. warrenp

    Official Tools for Hire Thread

    Anyone able to lend/sell the water pump (pulley pump?) holder tool for m54 and other engines? I could collect anywhere between Hutt valley and Masterton. https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Iron-32mm-Fan-Clutch-Nut-Wrench-Water-Pump-Holder-Removal-Tool-Kit-For-BMW/332381663617?hash=item4d637db181:g:upIAAOSw6AlZvLq4
  10. I'm trying to get the fan clutch bolt loose and need to hold the water pump in place and I'm failing with using screwdrivers jammed between the bolts etc. Anyone in Wairarapa or Upper Hutt have this tool I could borrow? Cheap on ebay but will take weeks to get here. https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Iron-32mm-Fan-Clutch-Nut-Wrench-Water-Pump-Holder-Removal-Tool-Kit-For-BMW/332381663617?hash=item4d637db181:g:upIAAOSw6AlZvLq4
  11. warrenp

    M54 vanos seal upgrade needed?

    Thanks for the tips. I think I will go with X8R. Beisan is out of my price range. Murray, I see they sell a kit without the gaskets and just a tube of instant gasket sealer, so presumably some people re-use the original gaskets along with the gasket sealer? Would you strongly advise against this? $165 for the kit with gaskets you linked to down to $85 without. https://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-DOUBLE-TWIN-DUAL-VANOS-REBUILD-RATTLE-SEALS-SET-KIT-FIX-3-5-7-Z3-Z4-X3-X5/162547855430?hash=item25d89b7046:g:yXEAAOSwa-dWiz7D&vxp=mtr
  12. warrenp

    M54 vanos seal upgrade needed?

    Any reason for Beisan Jared? Their seals are $60 US, the two rattle rings another $60 US which is over $200 NZ including shipping without even new nuts and washers. Teflon (PTFE) isn't expensive to manufacture and the rings are just hardened steel. I find it hard to justify this price without some strong evidence they sell a far superior product. http://www.beisansystems.com/products
  13. warrenp

    M54 vanos seal upgrade needed?

    Thanks Nathan I don't know if you're allowed to say on here, but which seller of the kits do you go with? Hong Kong free shipping deals from $30 for the 10 PTFE seals, 9 x nuts and washers and 2 x rattle rings. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Double-Dual-Seal-Rattle-Ring-Repair-Kit-For-BMW-Vanos-M52TU-M54-M56-11361440142/362100419807?epid=2236983454&hash=item544eddecdf:g:VJIAAOSwdDtZt3we&vxp=mtr vs $85 from XR8 who say they are high quality but essentially the same things right? https://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-DOUBLE-TWIN-DUAL-VANOS-REBUILD-RATTLE-SEALS-SET-KIT-FIX-3-5-7-Z3-Z4-X3-X5/162547855430?hash=item25d89b7046:g:yXEAAOSwa-dWiz7D&vxp=mtr
  14. warrenp

    M54 vanos seal upgrade needed?

    I've looked at the DIY for the vanos seal upgrade. I'm up for it, but looks like it will take me a day and a half so I'd rather only do it if I could first know that the engine needs it. I've just bought the car. 2003 530i touring, WBADS62040GL81691. Has 147,000 km, and (apart from the thermostat obviously needing replacing as the gauge went down to quarter mark on downhill runs) it drove like a charm from Auckland to Wellington and did about 11.5km/L for the trip (I drove with the slipper down a few times too). The idle is smooth and consistent, what looks like 650 or 700 rpm according to the tacho. Seems to have good pull right through the rev range. I've never driven another so have nothing to compare it with but it feels like 170kw to me. Even with 250kg of family and dog in the car it still overtakes effortlessly. I can't hear any obvious loud rattling sounds coming from the vanos area. Would you guys do this upgrade anyway? Any more precise ways to find out if it needs it? Previous owner didn't do it, but who knows if the one before him did it. Car was imported in 2010 from Japan with 80,000km. Thanks in advance for any replies.
  15. warrenp

    1999 318ti Manual, NZ New, $3,700 ono.

    SOLD. Second 318ti still available. $1,700 ono 235,000km WOF and reg
×