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About User Name

  • Rank
    2nd Gear
  • Birthday 05/12/1987

Previous Fields

  • Name
    KB
  • Location
    Levin
  • Car
    528i 1987 (3.5 swap)
  • Mods List
    TBA

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Interests
    Mechanics / Engineering , Blacksmithing , Motorbikes, BMW's , Random vintage stuff

Recent Profile Visitors

2,541 profile views
  1. Hi All, Long time since an update, but after some health issues that have stopped my life for last few years. Finally getting back on track with the car, Updated V5 or something of the manifold is a few weeks away from being all welded up. Once its back it home i will need to run the pipes down from the twin wastegates and finishing plumbing up the exhaust (downpipe for turbo already done)/ intercooler. Then re-pump fuel system for new surge tank .... and then the engine crusade will begin (glad things have got cheaper and more available in last few years)...
  2. Hi All, So a long time ago i had a nose to tail accident (no frame damage) but the left front inner quarter panel and front left face have damage. I have done some work to get this worked out but without actual measurements from another E28 or a reference guide its not going to sit right with me as i don't want to do a bog job. I did find a few frame reference materials online but nothing that really helped or showed me parts of car i needed. Updated pictures, As you can see it is passenger side inner quater panel and took picture of middle as front face is damaged. Thanks for Posts Update: Thanks to people who responded next time i am in wellington you might get a hassle
  3. Awesome, I actually might consider doing mine instead of swapping out for another type of seat.
  4. Just saw the post. Brent at BM World has lot's of info/knowledge and quite a few others. I have done a lot of research into M30 B34/35 Turbo and currently building a High HP engine for my e28 and thanks to help from people on the forum made leaps but life has kept project on slow mo. From the research i have actually done the older M30 blocks are more resilient to boost (make of cast materials) vs later model ones, the difference is the heads are better as time goes on. When considering the B35 vs B25 and block size handling more boost, that all comes down to sleeve strength and size and other variables. My interest would be the weight difference as if you could net similar gains to an b35 in reference to displacement you may actually come out better off if they weigh less. Ultimately what i say it comes down to what you want to do, doing an M30B25 would be unique and done right would net you good gains boosted. Also if you go NA swap rather than boosted its about 300ish for a megasquirt that will run the car so no need for a BMW ECU and its tuneable without issue Good luck and PM me if you have any questions you think i could help with
  5. Hi All, I'm based in lower north island and wondering if anyone has an old M30 cylinder head laying around (pref b35) Doesn't matter if its cracked or missing all pieces, needs to be flat and have exhaust side studs so i can get my custom manifold finished ASAP. Thanks
  6. Hi All, I had no clue which thread to actually put this under, anyway long story short I have a 95 750il (M73B54) if i remember correctly, The engine decided to take a nose dive after ironically after i rebuilt the starter as the inside bushes had given out. After some checking of sensors manually, no matter what i did the car would go into "failsafe mode" and not keep running, So got myself a cable and found the INPA software. Now here is my problem, i am able to read the EWS and other installed devices but not the DME i get a communication fault. i have had a look around and found that there seems to be two versions of the DME installed in the cars DME404 (pre 1/95) and later DME (cant remember version). My problem now is i don't have any clue which version my INPA has and have been unable to source the older "ipo" file which i believe might be needed to read DME to check fuel sensors etc. Please correct me if im wrong, or have any suggestions. I have considered taking to a shop but no-one local has software to read it that i've found. I am based in Manawatu and its not worth my money to transport it to somewhere like Palmerston north to have it looked at. Thanks anyone who reads this and have a good day
  7. Very nice, mines same color but not in that condition to much time in a messy garage, although stupidly i took off front bumper and it got taken as scrap You could always consider an late model m30 swap, very simple to do, but then again a 350 v8 small block drops right in, used to be one in wellington. Like everything its about how much you want to spend vs upgrade. As more power you want the more you will need to spend so the car can actually still handle.
  8. Hi All, Figured i would post before i go out to buy any diagnostic tools etc, as i have heard the V12's need slightly different software to diagnose problems. What happened... Typically ran car every few weeks off my Ute battery with no problems, until one day it started misfiring. So decided to check Rotor and caps to which i found quite dirty and one of back internal covers was broken (figured that was misfire) so cleaned them up. (would love new ones but not in my realm of budget due to some health issues after a knock on the head but that's life) then on first start the "starter" decided to take a dump , i rebuilt it myself. Car now turns over great, but burbles soon as it sparks and stops...or i get a engine fail safe mode warning on dash. My thinking is a sensor has taken a dump but would like thoughts before i purchase any diagnostic tools or waste money i don't have. Thanks for any responses....also located in Levin (if anyone around has the tools and wants some gas money or beers) always down for new connections
  9. I always thought that was creme lol. I'm going to be swapping out mine soon enough, still have a good set of what i would call grey, example below if anyone is interested. weirdly enough my drivers seat is that colour as came out of 525e. Good luck anyway
  10. Hi All, Should be a simple one, the internal dizzy cap cover broke (probably why misfired) Ideas on how to get the rotor holder out, Eg off end of cam so I can put replacement cover on. Centre bolt removed and wd40 + Some penetration oil seems to have pushed alot of crap out but still won't budge and can't afford to break it. Have considered standard size gear puller but means I need to take radiator out for enough room safely. Thoughts??? Will post picture when I get to a pc later. Thanks
  11. Hi Guys, Hopefully in right sort of place, After ideas on replacing my E38 Dizzy caps as they are completed stuffed and i thought i had an ignition sync problem....I do its missing firing 3/4 cyclinders. Now i understand you can use the ones of E28's and a few other models. Does anyone have a good used pair or know where i can get for cheap. Its a only a burnout machine for now until as its de-reged...so any help is appreciated
  12. Hi All, So the weekend was depressing as the timing case broke on my UTE just before the rebuild (more wasted money and hard to find part)...So in my searches on the interweb i came across a local who had a gem sitting in his driveway ready to be refresh or re-purposed. Its an 95 750il w 162k on the clock, its missing a few items but nothing that i am sure i would be able to find here or from our sponsors. Its currently de-registered, so that's where i am un-decided, so thoughts would be awesome as when my engineer finds out about me spending more money on other things i may need somewhere to hide Plan:???
  13. Hi All, Have some spare M30 exhuast flanges sitting around from my build. The ports are slightly off by about 1-2mm on on side due to design change (company side) and wasn't worked out till 2nd set was made. Totally fine for stock or light turbo as runners could be put on outside. They cost me around $100 each at time but ill sell them for $50 each, Ask questions as have a lot of respect for the users on this forum and don't want to screw anyone over or around. x1 = 14mm mild steel x1 = 10mm stainless
  14. I have no idea where my spec sheet went with the details and exact part number 63mm/67mm .85 A/R (Sounds about right) Think HX40 with a bit of magic added from Steve Merc. I believe the ATJ Drijt (D1 NZ) boys are running them in there cars and at the moment using hx35 for mock up
  15. Hi Team, I know this has been discussed in another thread by me but as time has progressed and turbo setup has changed i had to make some extra space and wanted to see if people think this will pass or if i am better just making a new one Orginal: e28 Mount attached to block via 6mm plate (wasn't space friendly) Current: M5 Mount + 10MM Steel Plate attached to e32 block ( i have put threads in the plate so it threads all way through) Or Do i use the spare 10mm steel i have and just create one (welded or just heat up plate and bend then tread) basically be reserve of M5 mount
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