hotwire

As Dan says - very straight forward BUT only if you have ALL the parts.

It is practically plug & play

You require:

Gearbox - complete with shifter linkage/stick & mounting bracket

Front section of driveshaft - to suit G260 E30

Clutch plate, pressure plate, release bearing, flywheel & circular shim plate. All associated bolts. As Dan says - insert a spigot bearing 

Master cyl, slave cyl, reservior/bracket, clutch line & hoses - pressure & reservior to master cyl

Manual pedals & the matching longer bolt or a complete pedal box.

It is easier to change the pedals rather than swapping the whole box. Remove the auto pedal & insert the two pedals with the longer bolt.

There is a perferated panel on the bulkhead - push this out & mount the master cyl to the pedal box (pre existing mounting holes)

The clutch line pipe clips into pre existing clips along the bulkhead & down to a mounting point on the L/H inner guard/rail - where it connects to the hose to the slave

Reservior bracket mounts to the battery tray, hose leads through an existing hole in the bulkhead onto the master cyl.

Remove the auto shifter assy. Underneath is remove the auto trans & cooler lines, fit a new spigot bearing into the crank, fit the clutch, gearbox & either swap the driveshaft or split the existing & replace the front section (rear half is the same for all).

Make sure your box mounts, giubo, hanger bearing & u joints are all good - replace if not. Also shifter linkage bushes, they are best replaced anyway.

You need to bridge the inhibitor switch wiring in the plug that connected to the shifter. Green /yellow to green /black for start & green /yellow to blue/white for reverse lights.

Note: if the G260 came from an E30 then all above applies. If it came from an E34 then several parts need swapping. I can fill you in on that if need be.

Yep seen that. pretty cool!

I have the NT644 & confirmed it will not reset the service schedule (inspection anyway) on analogue system in the E30 but does read codes & show current data. It shows as having done reset but doesn't action.  That said, nor does the much more elaborate Autel tablet scanner at work. I need to use the older Hanatech work scanner to do so.

^^^^^^^^^ This is an eleven year old thread. What is the point in dredging this up?

I would apply a Rust Converter to treat it if is only surface rust.

We have a customer code at work to quote to Repco for any parts we ( mean I ) may require - since we are classified as an essential business. Repco Te Awamutu is closed though, call forwarded to Hamilton & parts couriered to work.

Our other parts suppliers are available for trade too

On 2/23/2020 at 4:12 PM, B.M.W Ltd said:

Who even want's to work on them anymore ??

Yep I'm at that stage too!

Nup you can't sorry.

You will need a total monitor retrofit which will require rear mount radio tuner, antenna amplifier + video module or nav unit (for screen graphics) & the harness assy. The 16:9 monitor is just a dumby (apart from the tape deck) - all the modules are remote to it in the rear of the vehicle.

Also - is the 16:9 monitor a specific X5 unit? Many are sold as fitting E38/39 & 53. The X5 unit is different as the screen pixels are set for the different viewing angle in the X5

So, either a lot of work & cost to retrofit the 16:9 or  - go back to original radio (will plug into existing plug) or another Chinavin unit.

^^^^  got a set of Factory sport option Billy's for the E12 a couple of years back out of BMW AG

Yep agree to all above. I did everything including thermostat housing in one hit on mine. Fit & forget. Radiator is the only part not replaced as yet.

You should scan it with live data to see what is happening. Internal module faults can cause all kinds of rogue fault codes.

I would bet the module at fault.

On 12/3/2018 at 8:39 PM, Gaz said:

Chains are more of rattle than a click per say. Remove the oil filler cap you maybe able to see broken chain guides but depends on where and how bad they are broken

No better than the C180 Benz at work at the minute. 117000km, totally clean well serviced engine & the timing chain has jumped the exhaust cam sprocket 1/4 turn. Teeth on both cam sprockets severely worn.

To add salt to the wound, Benz want $4.5k for parts to repair!

9 hours ago, balancerider said:

Ironically most of the N46's were made in Hams Hall engine plant...

https://www.bmwgroup-plants.com/hamshall/en.html

Yes but they only assembled. The problem is the design

santa - get a 6 cyl version - a much better car

Those ignition coils very rarely fail, even at age. Ironically they are usually the first thing to get blamed for poor running.

But - the new one is shiny ?

Yea and the 3 are up near retail to offset the 1 free offer. in this case  - 1 at retail to offset the 1/2 price of the second. 

Marketing 101

Great progress Jon. So be ready for 21/22 season huh?

8 hours ago, gjm said:

Could be mouse poo. No sign of any damage to anything, fortunately.

Rodents in cars. Have seen untold over the years & the little shits cause heaps of issues in eating through things. Often wiring is eaten inside inner guards etc - where it  cannot be seen but suspicious electrical gremlins & signs of rodents is always a give away.

Looks like a nice score by the way.

1 hour ago, Gaz said:

Unless the lock is faulty also but flat should not affect the door. You do have to turn it quite hard 

Yep, the lock should still turn regardless of battery voltage. I have picked the locks on several E9... series cars

^^^^ This. Japan has humidity just like Singapore. I have seen, worked on plenty of ex Singapore BMW's that are no worse than from any other market.

Certainly the same can;t be said for Mercs - with their wiring degradation along with all the external trim plastics.

Certainly going to be interesting on how it will work & be policed.

That said, I don't have a problem on paying GST, what has really pissed me is (unless flying under the radar) $399 has cost just that. $401 (if picked) has cost about $520 ish - with the other associated costs added. So it will now cost $461 - as it should.

I would suggest fixing yours or putting a new unit on. A pain to change it only to have it fail in six- 12 months.

Actually had a similar fault on a VW Tourag at work a few months back, Front right brake intermittently grabbing. Turned out a faulty ABS sensor. Not open circuit or shorted but about twice the resistance of spec & obviously confusing the ABS module.

Tech 2 just plain wrong on a pre shell, even more so a replica AND no door pods to create the flow.

Inside does look nice but that price......

Saw this on facebook a couple of months back. Thought the guy had done it as a keeper. Nice car but...

Don't need OEM (Varta) although they are the best battery out there.

Just one the same size - DIN 63/66/92 - whatever it has. AA or Hella Endurent batteries are probably the next best to OEM.

You still need to diagnose that the starter is infact faulty though. Does sound like it though - I have been there with these at work before. Plenum needs removing to access the starter.