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M3AN

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M3AN last won the day on August 8

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About M3AN

  • Rank
    7th Gear
  • Birthday May 17

Previous Fields

  • Name
    Dave
  • Location
    Auckland
  • Car
    E36 M3 3.2/6M
  • Car 2
    E36 M328iA
  • Car 3
    None
  • Race Car
    McLaren P1 GTR
  • Race Car Number
    51

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    Male

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  1. I took my mm back to JayCar and the swapped it no questions asked. We tested the new one and lol it does the same thing (A reading doesn't correlate to mA reading) although I could complete a 10A circuit with the new one. Girl who helped me (who knew what she was doing) was equally as confused as I and both of us will look into it further. All said and done I can get an accurate reading so armed with the above info (thanks all) I got to it. Baseline draw = 152mA Remove fuse #7 = 122mA (30mA draw) Remove fuse #9 = 110mA (12mA draw) Remove fuse #31 = 55mA (55mA draw) Remove fuse #33 = 24mA (31mA draw) And I think 24mA is a reasonable steady state draw. So, to the fuses and of course nothing is simple. #7 = Central locking, Radio remote #9 = Radio #31 = Aircon, clock, gong, immobiliser, cluster, onboard computer, external temp sensor #33 = CD changer (not present), lighter socket (nothing plugged in), door lock heater, interior and luggage compartment lights, left side light (indicator?), reading light, parking light, phone (not present). #31 has the biggest draw but they're all factory components, most of which will have some draw when the car is off - but if I add the 55mA to my optimal baseline of 24mA I still get 79mA and isn't that too high? #33 again, all factory and no lights were on when I tested so how do I narrow down that draw? #9 radio is aftermarket and has a seperate amp (although amp is connected directly to battery), I'll check ground connections etc, anything else I should look at? #7 not even sure what radio remote is, who would I test central locking? I'm open to all thoughts, ideas and suggestions, cheers.
  2. I'll add this in from @3pedals as well, for some reason his comment didn't automatically show in this thread.
  3. M3AN

    good affordable workshopsin auckland

    Glenn's correct Andy, take it to BM Workshop,
  4. Bump before Trademe. I'll entertain any offer.
  5. M3AN

    What car to upgrade to from 540i?

    So much this. Really, if you love the E39 then do as @BreakMyWindow suggests and take a serious look at the M5. A good friend of mine had a lovely 540 manual years ago and used to drive a fair bit, he tried an M5 and blew his load, it ruined his 540 for him. Many years on he now owns an E39 M5. Of course, with a cool 50 your options are endless. Buy Tom's E46 M3, save and invest 20k, drive it like you stole it and get something more responsible in a couple of years?
  6. M3AN

    E30 Race Car - Jim Richard's JPS M3 Tribute.

    Yeah, put it back together, run and have fun and then you'll have a great project to look forward too off season with no time pressure.
  7. The Jatco in my 328 is flaring when changing from 2nd to 3rd and I believe this is due to low fluid. When I replaced the radiator I drained the trans cooler (~1 litre max) and the problem presented after this. It’s not a big issue and doesn’t do it in ‘Sport’ mode but over time this slipping will kill the box. I went to a reputable BMW independent here in Auckland they quoted “around $600” to do fluid, filter and gasket. They indicated that it was a 2.5 hour job (which seems reasonable) but that the parts were the expensive bit (this surprised me). Assuming the parts list is filter, gasket, 4-6 litres of D3 fluid and a couple of sump plug washers then the total parts bill is less than $200. By my reckoning this makes it a ~$450 job and for that I’d absolutely pay somebody to do it for me. At $600 I want to explore my options because I can get an entire gearbox for $450. I couldn’t find any complete details out there on how to do this (apparently common) Jatco job which also surprised me. So here’s my stab at a DIY and I’m looking for thoughts and comments on options and accuracy. Option 1 – Top Up Fluid Only Obviously the least expensive option and if it didn’t work I’ve probably only lost $25 worth of fluid (assuming I then move onto Option 2 because I’d be dumping near new fluid at that point). But there are some people that say not to do this. They say that I should be replacing the filter and as much fluid as possible because, well Jatco and it’s going to fail eventually anyway. A new filter and fluid would (“could”?) extend the service life. I’d need: Fluid (DEXIII 2l - $25) Fluid transfer pump (Basic - $25) Sump fill plug washer (BMW - 24111219539 - $1.80) Is this correct? Procedure: Get car in air and level Run car until trans fluid is 30*C – 40*C (measured in DIS) Leave car running in N or P Remove filler plug Pump fluid in until it overflows out of filler bore Move transmission through all gears, 30 seconds per gear Pump fluid in until it overflows out of filler bore Move transmission through all gears, 30 seconds per gear Pump fluid in until it overflows out of filler bore Replace filler plug with new washer Is this correct? Option 2 – Filter, Fluid & Gasket This is the more involved option because you need to remove the trans sump but it’s not significantly more complicated, it really just adds time to the job. Unless I don’t know something so if you have any experience with this I’d appreciate your insight. I’d need: Fluid (DEXIII 8l - $100 – probably won’t use it all) Fluid transfer pump (Basic - $25) Sump fill plug washer (BMW - 24111219539 - $1.80) Sump drain plug washer (BMW - 24111219541 - $2.10) Transmission filter (BMW - 24341423109 - $50) - can save a little going aftermarket Sump gasket (BMW - 24111421809 - $50) - can save a little going aftermarket Trans cooler line O-rings (BMW x4, two at each end, I have these already) Is this correct? Procedure: Get car in air and level Run car until trans fluid is 30*C – 40*C (measured in DIS) Undo drain plug and drain sump Remove sump Leave to drain/drip for 40 – 60 mins Remove filter and replace Remove gasket and replace Replace cooler line O-Rings Replace sump (if you can install the sump already nearly full of fluid you can save some time later) Replace drain plug with new washer Remove filler plug Pump fluid in until it overflows out of filler bore Start car Move transmission through all gears, 30 seconds per gear Stop car Pump fluid in until it overflows out of filler bore Start car Move transmission through all gears, 30 seconds per gear Stop car Pump fluid in until it overflows out of filler bore Start car Run car until trans fluid is 30*C – 40*C (measured in DIS) Leave car running in N or P Pump fluid in until it overflows out of filler bore Move transmission through all gears, 30 seconds per gear Pump fluid in until it overflows out of filler bore Replace filler plug with new washer Steps 12-20 are precautionary to ensure fluid gets to all moving parts without high loads because during these stages fluid levels are very low. Once fluid levels are at minimum operating levels the proper top up procedure can be following from step 21. Is this correct? Thoughts or comments?
  8. M3AN

    The importance of Full Cover Insurance

    Okay, well now that you've got it, strip it of anything valuable and get a quote from the likes of Brent or Ray to take it away - if they'll pay you more than $4k take their offer, if not then make a claim and get the $4k from AA. Not ideal but you now need to minimise your loss. Pursue the difference from the other driver through the courts if you can be bothered.
  9. M3AN

    Racetech RT1000 reviews

    Won't be a problem with the harness, the belts can run up anyway but it might be an issue with helmet clearance if it's already tight. That may be mitigated by mounting the seat lower if there's space to do that.
  10. M3AN

    WARNING WARNING WARNING

    YouShop did that too? Kiwishipping certainly did it and I got caught up in the middle. Thank God my purchase was from Amazon who have some of the world's best customer service. As a result of the monumental cock up I did get an Eibach Pro Plus kit of springs and bars air freighted to NZ and my total cost was GST on the cost of that Air Freight (~$40) and customs clearance (~$60). I didn't pay for the kit or the shipping and because the kit invoice now said US$0 there was no GST on that.
  11. M3AN

    The importance of Full Cover Insurance

    I think this is where 3rd party works in your favour. You still own the car, you can do with it what you want. AA are not a party to the car because they weren't insuring the car (comprehensive) they were insuring the driver (3rd party). Even if you have already made a claim, as long as the loss hasn't been assessed (AA's responsibility) then you can still get the wheels (and any anything else you've added). Their $4000 offer isn't "insurance" and it's not based on the value of your car. It could be a Ferrari on 19's or a Corolla with 15's and they'd still offer $4000. So by swapping anything out whilst ensuring it's still complete you're not ripping anyone off. Once an assessor has valued it you can't touch it so get in quick.
  12. M3AN

    The importance of Full Cover Insurance

    @qube - where is the car now? Unless you've specifically declared the wheels on your policy (no because it's only 3rd party) then go and get them and swap on any old rubbish. Same for any other valuable accessories. You want to get the value down as much as possible. And get a labour-only estimate for the repair and get a spare parts list from Brent or somebody and, unless it's chassis damaged, that might get the repair cost down enough? Or you might have to top it up but it's better than walking away with nothing. Sorry to see this mate, glad everybody is okay.
  13. M3AN

    Heaps of E46 M3's on TM

    2003 I think: +LED tail lights +Different trunk lid handle And not much (anything?) else.
  14. M3AN

    M3 Evo 3.2 1997 (HACKAR) Part 2

    Dude, that rotor! I bet it gave you a hell of a fright! Did you have any duct tape with you or did you have to flatbed it home?
  15. M3AN

    What'd you do to your BMW today?

    Where's this project page? I looked at the end of the thread, not the beginning.
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