M3AN

Yep. And I'm glad they did.

That dude is my new hero.

Cover your windows with a towel... ask me how I know that's a good idea!

Cleaning them is a real PITA and can break down the grease in the mechanism. Consider using silicon spray - fully extract the seatbelt and spray both sides of the first metre or so with silicon spray, slowly fully retract and extend the belt 4 or 5 times. Wipe both sides of the belt with a cloth around where it passes over your shoulder down to your lap to prevent any excess silicon transferring to your clothes. Profit.

Wow, they're both stunning and the silver one looks close to concours quality. But they can't plausibly be worth 30k+ each.

How do I tell if I've got the internet?

I left VTNZ the other day due a the queue that wasn't moving as I saw staff pack up their bags and end their shift. Went to the Post Office, took <5 mins.

"...do you know where and by whom?". ROFL

It better be a damn fine car!

Great post, thanks.

Took one for a long test drive when they first came out, made my passenger cry like a baby. Much, much fun to thrash.

Lipstick meet pig. You simply can't make an X5, X6, or any of the stupid oversized "coupes" look good. Total style fail.

Ultrasonic cleaner will work - cheap ones on TM for as little as $20 but $60 should get you an okay one. Tray size is important, you don't want to have to do every bolt individually.

Someone's pinched your springs!

I'm loathe to say that it suffers the same problem as the E36 M3 (especially in sedan form). It looks like any ordinary sedan. The E30 M3 looks quite the opposite.

The Merc looks terrible. Even for a 1980's car.

If it has a Pac-man connector under the hood I can probably do it for you also.

TBH I have very few ideas but hate to see an E36 cry for help go unanswered... so here's my 2 cents worth... Could be a bad ground but I doubt all of the above uses a single, common ground. Nevertheless, worth checking. Some general electrical diagnostic advice here: http://www.pelicanparts.com/bmw/techarticles/101-Projects-82-Electrical-Problems/101-Projects-82-Electrical-Problems.htm Final thing from me: the wiring loom that goes from the main body into the boot lid is notorious for causing weird and random electrical glitches in these cars... might pay to pull (or cut) the sleeve back (left hand boot hinge) and check for shorts there. See: https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?79896-Attention-ALL-E36-owners-beware-WIRING-PROBLEM Let us know how you get on.

Interesting. I actually thought you could only code the mileage on new/blank modules. Seems to defeat the entire system if mileage in used modules can be re-coded! Hope it all works out as planned.

I get you (lol) but I was really just confirming that you knew the highest mileage in the two modules will be used, you don't get to choose.

The highest mileage of the two right?

Yeah, well if it's not in the cap Audi's will still have a release valve somewhere which you might be able to use. Alternative you could tap a separate valve into the top of the reservoir somewhere - just get the correct pressure which I think is written on the top of the S50 cap. S50 is closed loop though, you may need to factor in a relief valve return line also.

Maybe ghetto but does the BMW cap (which has a valve) fit on the Audi tank? You'll need good thread engagement. Alternatively maybe a suitable Audi cap?

Can't help much myself, you seem to have found as much information I could offer. A 6 speed box will be mighty expensive, yes. They're out of ///M cars so ///M tax.

Where are you getting pressure release from with that reservoir? Doesn't look like that cap blows does it? Fits well though.