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Everything posted by M3AN

  1. Possibly. Don't start a job that you don't have time to finish springs to mind.
  2. What'd you do to your BMW today?

    Cleaned and polished (!) a whole bunch of suspension bits (nut, bolts, spacers, caps, top mounts etc.) whilst waiting for the required new parts to arrive. Will save over $300 by reusing serviceable parts (top mounts are most of this). Donanted M3 suspension will be going into the 328, I'll be starting at the rear (parts ordered) before I tackle the front (much bigger job).
  3. +1 Seems like somebody upgraded the software then forgot to open a browser and check to see if the upgrade had actually worked properly.
  4. Hi there, I have 4 used shocks, 2 x E36 M3 front Sachs, 2 x E36 M3 rear Boge and 2 x E36 328is rear Boge, all of the shafts take some pressure to push in but two hands is all that's required, none of them rebound back out at all (i.e. they stay entirely within the shock body unless I pull them out). No obvious signs of any leakage on the shocks but they've all done some miles. Is my compression/rebound test valid for checking their function? Should the shafts come out by themselves (Youtube seems to say so but my RC car experience says no)? Are they viable? Is there a better test? Do I put them in the dumpster or can I make something of them? If they were of use 4 of them would go into my 328 which has pretty dead suspension. I need to weigh my options against getting a set of new Chinese shocks for $360. Cheers.
  5. Yep, and it certainly help when you get a little nudge in the right direction from places like this to set you off. And yes again, I'll do it properly but hopefully without over-capitalising on my $2k beater!
  6. Quick Questions

    None sorry. Give them a call in Aus and ask, maybe they'll know? http://www.loctite.com.au/2956_AUS_HTML.htm
  7. Okay, armed with my new knowledge from above and some extra reading I took my box-o-shocks to George Stock to see what they had to say. Well worth the trip. A friendly gent in a suit pointed me to the workshop and told me to talk to Russell. I wandered through a maze of corridors into a massive warehouse and a pristine (and empty) workshop and found the man called Russell. Big bloke, difficult to miss. Russell came out to look at my box-o-shocks and immediately declared that the front pair I have are fine, I just need to remove the plastic dust covers and clean out all the perished bump-stop that will be in there. They're hydraulic, have no leaks and have clean shafts. Win. All four rears are gas-pressurised hydraulic and, whilst the gas has mostly gone, they're perfectly fine to use because they're not leaking and are supported by springs anyway (aren't all shocks - apparently not!). He said use the bigger bore ones (the M3 variety rather than the "motorsport" ones) and I'll be away laughing. No real benefit in testing them and replacement rear shocks are a dime a dozen these days he says - if they fail, just get new ones. He was concerned that I shouldn't put them onto the M3. I assured him they were going into a lessor car and he was happy. As we parted he complimented the M3, I'm glad I drove that instead of the 328! Now I need to order all the ancillaries to mount them - by the time you consider top mounts, bushings (for sway bars), bump stops, reinforcements and ancillary hardware it's still not an inexpensive exercise! Thanks for all the advice!
  8. 14 May 2017 - Because DropBox is crap they've made all my images private & broken all the links. I'm moving everything to another host but it's a massive job - if you need pics in the meantime hit me up with a PM. So I thought I'd start a plog to document some of the things I'm doing to my car now that I've decided to return to NZ for the time being. I'll probably end up needing this thread to remember all the things I want to do. I was going to call this a "Tidy Up" thread but euroriffic already took that for his cool thread here which I took much inspiration from. Vehicle is a 9/96 Estoril Blue on Lotus White manual coupe, 3.2. Years ago now it picked up a Remus exhaust, carbon intake and BBS 18" RC's and I'm very happy with the combo. She also has aluminum doors from the Lightweight model as well which is a bonus. It's in "tidy" condition but far from mint and I want to see what I can do to bring her up to spec. In no particular order I want to (or have completed): Get the wheels stripped, smoothed and refinished. (done, finally!) Paint needs a touch up in some spots and the clear coat is coming off a corner of one door Restore/recover front seats (some fixes applied) New shocks (done: Bilstein B8) Uprated sway bars and springs (done: Eibach Pro Plus) New OE front swaybar end links (done) X-Brace (done) Front strut tower bar (done) Vibra-Technics engine mounts (done) 3 spoke steering wheel (done) ZHP shift knob (done) BMW USB charger for lighter socket (done - waste of time) Braided clutch hose (done) New glove box (done) Drivers door side molding is cracked (done) New headliner (done, including rear shelf and all pillars) Replace slider clips for front windows (preventative) VANOS seals and rattle kit (have required parts and tools) (done) Suspension reinforcement plates (done - Rally Road RTAB and sway bar reinforcements + Z3 rear shock tower reinforcements) Rear side window weather stripping (done) Rear window weather stripping (done) Rewire stereo (done, new head, amp and speakers) Fix aircon control capacitor (done) Fix aircon itself, doesn't blow cold, need to diagnose... Potentially a different ratio diff... 3.61 or something perhaps... $$$ Or just diff seals, plugs and bolts. (done) Poly RTAB's (done - SuperPro) Laser alignment (done) Replace plastic panel under wipers (done) Fix/replace slow retracting seat belt on drivers side (done) New leather shift and hand brake boots with ///M stitching (done) Fix loose front door cards/clips (done) Replace spoiler stop light, original is cracked and leaking (done) Braided brake lines (done) New belts (done) Tensioners and pulleys (done) New water pump, thermostat, lines and gaskets (done) Quick ratio steering rack (done) New steering tie rods (done, including adaptation for E46 rack) I've already fixed some other bits and replaced various tools, screws, caps and covers so the car's pretty complete but there's still lots to do. I've also purchased a code tool and cable so we'll see what that turns up to add to the list. Most of this stuff shouldn't be too expensive and I'll be seeing how much I can do myself over summer because I'm not likely to be working for a little while. Have lots of parts waiting in NZ for me and I am bringing back this collection that I picked up from Germany (should be enough panel clips to last a lifetime).
  9. M3AN E36 M3 PLOG (Project Log)

    Update on the radiator... I took the alu one out of the 328 and replaced that with the OEM one, all good. Cleaned and flushed the alu one and even spent 30 mins straightening out all the bent fins; put it in the garage. Got the old rad out of the M3 a few days later which was easy as I have no fan or cowls, three hoses, two clips and uncoupling the oil cooler. Lost only a few mils when draining so I could reuse the (expensive) BMW coolant (it's only a year old). Dropped in the alu rad and got it settled into place no problem. Got underneath to hook up the oil cooler and... no go. The brackets are there on the radiator but the actual radiator design makes it impossible to fit the cooler, there's simply not enough room - it's a lazy design oversight. No amount of fettling, hammering or even pounding was going to create room for it to fit. Do NOT buy a Redline Performance alu radiator for an e36 M3!! Fit's fine in the 328 (no oil cooler) and should fit in the M3 but it's miles off. Avoid. So I had a beer to consider my options. I'm glad the cricket was on the radio. Didn't take long for me to work out my only practical option. Drained the 328 and hauled the OEM radiator back out, slotted that into the M3 and hooked up the oil cooler no problem (of course). Filled it (NB: make sure drain plug is in rad before filling!) and made sure everything was tight. Self bleeding cooling systems are the biz. Put the alu radiator back into the 328 and faffed around with refilling and bleeding that again... :-/ So, I could have: 1. Taken OEM radiator from box and put it in the M3: 90 mins max. What I did was: 1. Drain and remove perfectly good alu radiator from 328 and replaced it with an OEM one: 3 hours 2. Drain and remove old radiator from M3: 30 mins 3. Fit alu radiator to M3 and wank around trying to get it to fit: 60 mins 4. Have beer and decide what to do: 10 mins 5. Drain and remove OEM radiator from 328: 60 mins 6. Install OEM rad in M3: 30 mins 7. Reinstall alu rad in 328: 60 mins How to turn a 90 mins job into a 6+ hour job. Nice. Anyway... one change I made on the M3 was to install a lower aux fan temp switch (from the E30 I think) into the M3. This one operates at 80/88*C (low/high fan speed) as opposed to the standard 91/99*C. I've kept my 88*C thermostat. The reason I did this was because I'm not using a clutch fan at all and wanted to provide some extra cooling as soon as the thermostat opens. The front (aux) pusher fan is really powerful and should be enough (unless you blow a fuse, ask me how I know). My oil temps (measured using the dash gauge) have dropped 8-10*C (!!!) as a result of this change so I'm quite happy. Aux fan comes on far more frequently of course but that's not an issue at all.
  10. Don't worry about being trated differently about the scan results, I've spent thousands at BMW and have never been 'entitled' to any scans. That contributes to why I've not taken my cars to BMW for over a decade. I'm glad it worked out for you in the end even despite the sting in the tail, I expected that. Next time get it towed home (insurance will cover it from there) or to one of the places recommended here, we've got south, east, central, north and even further north covered.
  11. Quick Questions

    Allan's right @Jacko, for the sake of a few bucks do the seals whilst it's out.
  12. *HELP* e46 318i 2000 BATTERY DRAIN?

    Did you test voltage with the car running? It's not clear. Alternator test: start car and use positive terminal & good ground with a multimeter and you should get 14+ volts. Anything less and your alternator is on the way out. If the above passes only then move on to parasitic loss tests: not sure what you know already but you really want to use an auto-ranging multimeter (or know how to use a manual one properly), only ever use the ground side of the battery, not the hot side (i.e put your multimeter between the battery and black cable, not the red one), make sure nothing is in an accessory socket and all doors are closed (ideally the trunk will be closed too if you can access the battery from the rear seat), establish what the draw is then start pulling fuses until it drops off. Remember you'll always have some residual draw (antitheft, ECU's, clocks, radios etc) but that should only be ~30 or 40 mA. Do NOT try and start the car, turn on the wipers or headlights or anything with an amperage that exceeds that of the fuse in you multimetre or you'll fry things and start fires. Good luck - if a good battery is draining in four nights then you'll find the draw easily enough, it's massive.
  13. That's helpful, thanks @3pedals - I don't know if these are gas and/or hydraulic but they sound hydraulic and the Boge ones have "gas under pressure" stamped on them. I'll look into this further armed with the above info, cheers.
  14. Owch

    I suspect he's being processed now... might not have internet access!
  15. Yeah, $90 to fit all 4 which isn't bad. Add an alignment and I could walk away for $500...
  16. That reminds me, I do need my spring compressors back... Do the shafts on the shocks you have sitting around bounce back out? The "Chinese" ones are actually from a local seller on TM (https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/bmw/suspension/auction-1566287429.htm) - considering no shocks are made in NZ then these are probably as local as they get!
  17. Hi folks, here's an opportunity to grab a bargain if you're looking for one of these in particular, the retail prices on these are just crazy! Slip Rings 1 x 32341162804 - Perfect Condition - $75 + P&P 1 x 32341162111 - Stripped Wire 2nd Pic - $60 + P&P Airbags 1 x 32342228015 - Perfect Condition - $75 + P&P 1 x 32341092762 - Perfect Condition - $75 + P&P Steering Wheels 1 x Three Spoke - Frame is fine, leather is terrible - $10 + P&P 1 x Four Spoke - Frame is fine, leather has split - $10 + P&P If you buy a slip ring or airbag you can have a steering wheel of your choice for free. If you buy a slip ring and airbag you can take $25 off the price and have a steering wheel of your choice for free. I'm also open to offers. Pickup in Ellerslie if you're so inclined.
  18. Steering wheels gone, slip rings and airbags still available... All offers considered.
  19. A "quick look" isn't a proper diag so your options won't become clear until that happens. Did they plug it in or just stand there, look at it and go umm, err? Or were you drinking free coffee when they checked it out? If it's a coil or plug or some other (eventual) consumable then the dealer's not liable unless they knew about it or should have known about it BUT, it's worth giving them a call, they may be willing to work with you and you won't know unless you ask. Insurance, unless they're mugs. won't replace all the coils if only one is bad unless BMW insist they're all done together (and that's a conversation between BMW and Provident, don't get in the middle of it). BMW are unlikely to insist they're all done together. But in the end if they're not all bad you don't need them all replaced. If more go bad you've still got nearly 3 years of coverage remaining. I'd: * Check that Provident will pay for a proper diag - BMW won't do this for less than $100 and a free "quick look" is worthless tbh,. * Once you have the proper diag see how much insurance will cover. * If there's a gap between what you want done and insurance will cover then give the original dealer a call and see what you can negotiate Keep in mind that replacing a coil (either yourself or at an independant) may actually cost less than your excess.
  20. Quick Questions

    Para Rubber sell fuel grade hose? Interesting. My answer would have been: any hydraulics shop.
  21. Quick rant thread.

  22. Forgot about these, clearing out the garage. Make me a silly offer before they go in the bin.
  23. Euro Plates

    Yes, I got mine from germanplates.com (on multiple occasions actually - I have 6 or 8 of them). NZ law states that plates must be manufactured by a government approved supplier (of which there is only one) therefore any other plate (including stickers some people use) are technically illegal (but just try fitting a standard front plate to a LaFerrari or countless other cars). It doesn't matter what features or dis/similarities any non-offical plate has. I've never disputed their (il)legality but I've also never had a problem with them. I've been using them since 2002. My brother used the car occasionally when I was living in Europe and got pinged twice. Go figure. The probably I have with the current system is that the retail price for personalised plates in NZ is propped up by an artificial monopoly created to fill government coffers - it's a vanity tax which is BS.
  24. What'd you do to your BMW today?

    It's encouraging to see some people still doing it properly, nice one. But I bet that hurt... $$$... !