Allanw

That's probably the best advice, right there! I worried about that too, as ours is a Singapore import. I didn't have much choice though - not many manual E39's around! As it turns out, Singapore's average humidity is within 2% of the humidity here in Whangarei, year 'round. I can't see why they would have the problems and we wouldn't. Other parts of NZ would be similar. The cars from the salty areas of Japan can be REALLY bad for rust - Had a couple in a rental fleet a few years back, and even the trans cooler pipes rusted through! There are a LOT of Singapore imports. Many of the facelift 525i's and 530i's seem to be Singapore. Singapore spec cars are the same as the Euro versions (mostly), few minor differences like Hot climate version etc. They have the wide number plate gap, like the NZ and Euro cars and have radio and sat nav that is the same setup as the Euro cars (on the stuff I've looked at anyway). I can actually set my radio etc to Gulf states, Australasia, Europe etc. Japan isn't there, as they're often completely different (although some of the very late E39's from Japan can be set to our settings). There are a LOT of E39's around, so you can take some time to find the right one for you (unless you want something rare - I wanted manual, so was limited!). My M54 2.5 goes REALLY well, after the Vanos seal repair, and I imagine a 3.0 would be impressive. Before doing any towing, I'd be looking at trans cooling, and making sure the engine cooling is up to snuff - It's the weak point. The thermostat is electronically controlled, and if the electric element in it fails, the engine runs extra hot until you have the fault codes scanned and see the element has gone open circuit. It does NOT bring up a check light! The cooling system has other issues, such as plastic water pump impellors wearing, radiators exapnding along the bottom etc. I'm actually going to fit a conventional thermostat to mine. I imagine the 3.0 would be quite a bit quicker than the 2.8 - It may not feel like it, because of the broad, flat torque curve of the 3.0. The double Vanos seems to make quite a difference ( it was on the M52TU 2.8 as well though - most 528i's seem the be single Vanos M52 though). Be aware that the Vanos seals will need replacing on whatever you get. Mine were totally poked at 116K (Vanos Seals Thread) and they make a MASSIVE difference to the torque. People get hung up on servicing - I know from the Lease cars I've had, they get the BARE MINIMUM servicing in NZ - even at the dealers - The lease company spends as little as they can on the servicing and specifys what they'll pay for, so a NZ new example isn't always better serviced. Plus lots of kiwi's do it themselves on older cars and don't get it right (The correct oil for a M54 engine is NOT cheap). The BMW specified 20K+ oil change interval is probably a bit long for a lot of drivers too - lot's of city driving isn't good. I bet most still wait for the lights to say it's due, when there is usually a maximum time specified (and ignored). As stated above - the condition and a prepurchase inspection (somewhere GOOD!) are a good start. There are a LOT of diffrent spring rates and ride heights etc. Realistically, as soon as you need new shocks, they'd probably the generic type anyway. The motorsport suspension is a lot firmer and more "jiggly" ours has it, and is stiff. There are 4 main types of E39 suspension: two types of motorsport suspension, a rough road verson and an eastern european suspension package - the last two are 22mm higher (done with a spacer on the strut tops) and some other minor differences. I don't know the difference between the two Motorsport types though. Maybe one is for the V8's only, because of the extra weight??? Dunno. The Touring will often have self-levelling rear airbag suspension. If you get really serious about a car, it may be worth whipping off the rocker cover and make sure it's all sparkly clean under there. You can't see in through the oil cap properly, and the rocker cover gaskets are prone too leaking anyway, so may as well be replaced. Some have been known to sludge up on the wrong oil. The service indicator lights are based on oil meeting BMW's specific specs, and not all oil will last the distance! Also the trans and diff are "sealed for life" which in BMW speak means don't service them at all, and then throw them away when they die. You'll want to have them serviced, again, with the correct fluid (not as easy as it sounds, the fluid specs aren't simple!). Good luck! They are great cars, considering they're all old now!

All sorted, Gone! You're too late!

It's of absolutely no use to them anyway, and it could be considered a security risk. Either they give it to you, or you watch them destroy it - REALLY destroy it - grinder, vicegrips, gas torch etc.

only E39 sorry...

I was I'm actually hoping that they'll sneak through without GST being charged on them, as they are being couriered privately, not from a business. Unlikely, but I'm hoping! I don't really want to spend the money on them, but they're taunting me! I've kinda got my money back on the old ones, by sorting a deal that works for me and the buyer, although more for him... Oh well, At least I'll have bling bling lights . The orange indicators actually are correct for my car, and I actually prefer them with our paint colour. Shame the shipping is so much! They're HUGE freakin boxes (as you know, Shane), and this has the self adjusting retrofit kit and loom in there too. Mrs was in the UK a couple of weeks back too... I also out her about 3kgs over the baggage limit because of the VW driveshaft I got her to bring back - the headlights probably would have caused a divorce (plus she's 6 months preggers and the bag was kinda heavy!) If anyone is keen, PM me asap, I'll probably paying tomorrow, so no deal after that. Dude doesn't have any other models either They are genuine sets, but are coming from Germany, via the UK this time. Not local. Cheers,

Will be interesting to see their response... As I say, I'm not familiar with the ordereing etc, but You should be able to have the remote key. The prices sound about right for the dealer. I have a sneaking suspicion they have ordered you the wrong one and they proably want to sell it to you anyway

Anyone interested in buying a genuine Hella retrofit kit??? I'm thinking of getting one, and there is still one more available. Has EVERYTHING, including self levelling included. has ORANGE indicators. Works out to $1380 inc GST and shipping. Let me know ASAP, will probably be ordering next 2 days, and there was only 2 available when I asked. Cheers,

not sure pic showed it on a pre facelift, possibly in gold, with the spoiler in white. All i remember

I guess there's a possibility that he does or does not know what he is talking about. How much did they charge? The cheap key price? You'd hate to pay the remote price for the cheap key! Does the button do anything? I think remote locking was standard, but some Jap imports were infrared, instead of Radio. I'm not knowledgable in the area, but I'd think they've stuffed up your order - not the first time it's happened with keys!

There was something similar (in fibreglass) on tardme recently.

I thought it was kinda cool how it looks like it's abandoned If you want, I'll try yours out, so you can see how cool it looks

Prolly!

Some motivation.... (could use some new rear tyres though... see 2.21 on) Motivation...

Ah... the $1 reserve one? Looks like a good base for my fave BMW project... M3 touring

Drove Whangarei to Warkworth. 1.5ish hours, 7.0 L/100kms Even with the AC on. got up to 7.5L/100kms by te time I got back, after chasing mates around on a stag do

It's 5 stud.... weren't 2002's 4x100??? Interesting.............

Fixed that for you

Is it flat from being parked on for the last 6 months, or is it from a lock up? If it's from being parked, they will often disappear fairly quickly.

There is usually a bunch on eBay, not sure if the Jap ones are different though???

Yup... even the factory consumption figures in the handbook show the 320i auto is the hungriest around town, actually MORE than the 325i! The 2.0 is a bit gutless and works harder = less efficient. May as well get a 325i or a 318i - the 318i is even cheaper to buy often too! Plus the 318i is probably as fast as a 320i around town, just less torquey for open road cruising.

Awesome! Keep up the encouragement! maybe encourage an M60 AND crunchy

I was just thinking the same about the boot lid...

If you have any issues with the new one, complain like hell! It should work at least as well as your old one, before the "loss" If you had an accident which damages a tyre (or 4), would they replace them with linglongs? I mean, they do the same job. Maybe any issues with THEM are down to installation too??? BTW: You got a heavy foot??? http://mefi.us/images/fuelly/sig-metric/115568.png

or two...

If the pulley spins under the belt, get another hand to squeeze two sides of the belt, thereby tightening it - hold the pulley a bit tighter A couple of good hits will usually do it anyway. Once I had a long enough spanner, it was easy as.