Allanw

P.S. I like how BOTH car are parked in the driveway, charging 😁

Also... if its raining when you weld up my muffler, I'll be able to stay dry while I watch you do all the work! 🤣

They actually charge you a year at a time and charge in advance. If you pay monthly, they are financing you (and charge interst, FYI!). If you look at the monthly payments vs the annual, there is extra charges for monthly payments. I just pay mine annually, because I'm tight! 🤣 Technically, they are correct to charge the additional payments... because you have insured the car for the whole year at a time... but it's really just good planning on their part to minimise their loss! 😉

Excuse me! It's a Bosch! A german one! I stopped buying F&P years ago, when it took them 18 months to replace my stove, and the brand new one was faulty too - Never buy F&P crap again 😉 I just built brand new front struts for the R32ran in the dining room this week though. She didn't even roll her eyes 😁

You can buy ALL the parts now!

^^^ Actual swear words??? 🤣 I fitted the TPMS reset switch to Moniques Touran, after she had a puncture repaired... ...the switch doesn't work!😡 I didn't actually swear though - I just cracked open my keg of Rum 🤪

It that rust on a South African built car? They suffer from rust in the weirdest of places!

I've got four of this style... although 2 are dads. His 2 were in professional use for about 50 years, then my brofessional use for the last 20 years and I trust them with my life regularly. I'm SO over chinese sh*t... It's so rarely worth the cost, even though it's "low". I wouldn't go as far as buying an English car... but my Toaster, Cooker and vacuum cleaner are all British made by low-standing old companies and have all the parts available for purchase and have been built to be repairable. Granted, combined, they cost more than my car... but you only have the capital outlay once! Research... then pay decent money, get a decent product and get on with life - you'll soon forget the extra you paid, when things just work, are easily fixed, or just DON'T try to kill you...

I'm pretty sure that ANY capacity increase requires a cert anyway - regardless of power output.

SMG would automatically rule me out... See what I did there? 🤣

If you take that tail pipe off, the rear should rise up 100mm to level it out too🤣

Such informed contributions....

Yeah, my spacer just slipped over the studs on the top mount. It was much thinner than the rough road version. Once you have the long studs in there, you can adjust thickness easily... but it just takes a bit of time lower the shock/spring assembly after removing the rear parcel shelf. Entirely from memory, the rough road version raises it 22mm??? I also raised the front of ours, which was a 10mm alloy ring, tapped so the studs were replaced with bolts, bolting the top mount to the spacer, and the extra length of the bolts from the studs to bolt it to the shock tower (plus I had a cheap strut brace to reinforce the soft shock towers). You can't get away with that on the back though, I don't think the bolt heads fit? I also wanted to make it all, before stripping the car anyway. You *may* be able to find replacement studs the right length, but the knurled part isn't always a standard diameter. I don't have a pic of the back, but this is the front, same basic idea, just slightly different execution: And this one is of it raised, which I don't think I quite achieved 20mm from original:

Nah, it makes it easier: You can buy "rough road version" rear upper shock mounts, with longer studs fitted (you can also fit longer studs, but why not replace the mount). BMW had factory fitted spacers on the top for rough roads. I machined up a plastic spacer to go on the top, to lift our E39 with the Mtech suspension. Be aware, that you probably only want a 5mm (maybe 6) spacer to lift it 9mm though??? rough enough is probably OK anyway - it's always going to be a bit either way, depending on load etc. I think I used 10mm spacers and got maybe 16 or 18mm of lift??? - the suspension pivot is about halfway between the outside of the wheel and the inner arm mount - mathematically, you'll get double the lift for the spacer thickness, but the leverage reduces it slightly.

I can't see the pic - Google images sucks for that. If the engine temp sensor is reporting the engine as cold, it'll inject extra fuel. The temp gauge and the ECU have different signals, so they don't see the same values. I can't remember if the late E30's use one sensor with 2 outputs, or if it's 2 sensors though? Certainly worth checking. I'm assuming the gauge is reading straight up and down at "normal" temp after running a while.

I really like how the Potenza re003 fitted really squarely on the 15" weaves on Dads E30. I have Continental MC6's on my VW, and they fit nice and square too - some other brands I have used are narrower, even though the size is supposedly the same, and they look a bit gash because they look stretched - not at all how an E30 on weaves should look 😎 Car looks awesome BTW!

http://www.bidbud.co.nz does it for you 😎 Used it for years. Plus its a more practical interface than the standard trademe one.

Different if it was a factory manual... The difference between autos and manuals is big. The auto E30's are just LAME as a collectable. Then, for me, it has to be original to be worth decent money. I want the build sheet to match what it is. I've been thinking about Dads old 325i SE. We sold it for $8500 in early 2016... but wish I hadn't - I knew I'd regret it! We're thinking about selling his 1929 Ford Model A which is probably worth about $30K, so wondered if paying $20K to get his E30 back would be silly... I probably would though - especially since it's HIS money 🤣! It was a "collector" who purchased it, so it's probably in similar condition to when he sold it.

https://www.supercheapauto.co.nz/p/sca-sca-removable-standard-towing-hitch/553480.html#q=hitch&lang=en_NZ&start=5 https://trojan.co.nz/Fixed-Towball-Mounts/6728-a5aba53d-5c4d-4df2-877e-39965b103d87/ It might need extra holes drilled for the length, but it'll work for the weekend (probably!)

I'd be surprised if it wasn't already happening on every outing!

Although... they make it so restrictive to get in... but do it so half-assed that it doesn't actually work properly. Family members who paid for quarantine had several "accidental" interactions with other quarantiners, that simply should never have happened!

Having a ticket does NOT significantly increase your chances of winning anyway

I love Steel Blue! Our old E39 was that colour. Looks amazing on a gloomy day, or in direct sun, yet totally different. Nice.

This thread explain the gauge readings. I read the EEPROM from my cluster, and changed the gauge to read more useful numbers. The gauge readings were 100% waste of time - like the lights in modern cars.

It's still being considered 🙂