rogan

Ive got the sub out of phase. It was cancelling out the underseats. Im still doing the odd tweak but happy with where i’m at. need to figure out an enclosure for the sub. Current enclsure is solid but doesnt work practically with the boot space. In future i may move the tweeter from door sails to bottom of A piilar facing up into windscreen.

Bought the dongle and a bimmercode licence. Changed to hifi, changed to sa_audio_variant1. Didn’t affect the headunit output level - and there was no option for internal /external amplifier. There’s 4 eq options: default and sa_audio_variant1 to 3. All have slight differences but none are spectacular. At the moment i’ve settled on variant1 with a slight amp gain increase on the underseat speakers. I need to have a better play with the sub to get it blending better - thinking lower crossover and reduce amp gain. Really happy with Bimmercode. Simple to hook up and use. Made the normal changes, and have changed a few things on the wifes car. Trying to figure out how to increase the indicator flash from three to five. My options are “einmal” which flashes 3 times (!!!) or custom value. Tried “04” but that did nothing. Might have another play.and try “dreimal” which is 3 flahes on some other models. On the wifes F10 those options are in English and numerical: so much easier.

Thanks Olaf & Neal. Bimmercode or bimmerutility?? I downloaded bimmercode and opened the demo. When I go to supported coding options for F20, audio needs hu_nbt, but I think mine is hu_champ Price wise, by the time I get a BT dongle thingy, I’m most of the way to the bimmerutility licence but then need to get the enet cable. Regarding phase changes, I tried flipping both teeeters out of phase, flipping a midrange, flipping an underseat. All sounded better wired in phase. The kicker key amp has a one auto set up button. There’s no way to adjust TA/dsp manually. Realistically I can only use gains to adjust the fader between underseat and doors. The door components have a basic passive xover with 0/-3db option only. Have them at -3. Although the amp has very limited tuning, I’m quite happy with that having spent endless hours tuning previous car stereos. Inability to tinker will hopefully cure my upgraditis.

Found this relating to a 2014 F10: https://www.diymobileaudio.com/threads/bmw-audio-coding-non-most.437890/post-5939879 “There is one setting delivering a useful output: Coding: Hifi, internal amp, audio offset on, audio var 2, audio profile 1” Still trying to find something on a F20.

Long time since I’ve posted. 2014 NZ 116i CIC headunit with base audio. Door 4” and underseat 8” were powered directly from head unit. Likewise rear 4”. i’ve upgraded the door speakers to Focal IS BMW 100L ( ie 4” and tweeter). Underseat speakers upgraded to Focal isub 4. underseats and door speakers are biamped off a Kicker Key 200.4. Rears still running off the head unit. Image Dynamics IDQ12 in the boot powered by a Kicker Key 500.1 with remote in the ciggie lighter socket. Both amps use the hi level front output from the headunit. The Kicker 200.4 has onboard DSP - auto time alignment, eq, crossovers but there’s no flexibility to customise. Sound is good with auto eq but it’s a bit tweeter heavy and the mid bass / midrange is a bit out. From what I’ve read the base audio has boosted treble to make up for the lack of tweeters. Looking for someone in Auckland who can code and adjust the setting to remove the treble boost. At the same time I’d like to get the start-up legal disclaimer removed. spoke to Audiocity but they didn’t inspire confidence. Spoke to Autogravity but although they could code, they needed me to supply the codes to change. Any recommendations. Any help much appreciated.

In that budget range, I'd be looking for something like 1998-2001 Corolla liftback bugeye Like this but find a private seller http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/...n-634866867.htm

Aaahhhhh. That's the one. I was so busy vomitting in my own mouth I couldn't remember what colour it was. I think it has fluoro mags as well now

Nothing could fail like the fluoro pink and white 7 series I was unfortunate enough to see at Harvey Normans wairau Rd the other weekend. Would make a Multipla look good.

what part of Ak?

Looks like the FM step isn't adjustable on yours. Bummer

Find the user manual and check radio settings. Some have a menu system where you can select continent. Sth America or Europe work here IIRC. What Pioneer model?

Happy AMI customer here. Agree you need to watch what the agreed value is, but they tell you that every year and all they've asked for in terms of a valuation was something from a car dealer, not neccessarily some kind of specialist valuer. Benefit about AMI is they are the best firm when it comes to paying out on a claim that might not quite fit within the policy wording. Had a claims on house & contents recently (ie 2.5yr old smashed the 46" tv); they've been excellent. Only issue we ever had was when our first peoplemover got written off. We wanted 3 x new baby seats at $500ea. Claims clerk tried to tell us that figure was included in the agreed value when policy stated it was on top. I set the wife on them and they soon accepted they were wrong and paid it over the top.

The cam belt and variator are the big ticket items. If mine had been manual I would have loved it; selespeed is a money pit with no upside Having pulled most of the interior apart in mine, I can say the inside is a hell of alot better put together than the e46 and older 3 series models. Apart from selespeed, cambelt and variator they're great. Italian something in Otahuhu Auckland is who I used for servicing. They had lots of parts availability too being Alfa wreckers.

Think it's been fixed now

Trying to get hold of the site admin to fix it, but don't put your life on hold waiting. NZicemag used to be really active. Pretty much dead now but bargains do come up cos the market for 2nd hand in NZ is terrible

FYI, he's on east Coast Rd, just south of Greville

FYI just waiting for Hennie to get back to me. My bad, I forgot to PM him earlier

He done a heap of VWs so he's familiar with euros. Don't know of he's done any e39s. He knows his stuff, does a good job and he does it as a side hobby so guessing his rates are less than a shop. I'd get work done by him and I'm fussy. Best to jump onto nzicemag forum and PM him. Goes by the forum name GLIDN. Tell him I sent you

If you're handy to the Upper Harbour Brideg I'd recommend a guy called Hennie who lives on east Coast Rd Browns Bay. Otherwise don't know anyone out west.

Remove the arm rest from the back seat and replace it with a sub and enclosure. An 8 might fit in a small sealed enclosure. Without the ski pass, a sub in the boot is very muffled. HK needs an aux input into the headunit. No idea if you have one or not or can add one. For install, what part of Ak are you in?

HK drive and play is a standalone system. Then only requirement is an aux input into the factory system

I don't see the point of investing $1500 in car audio for 6 months use. Sub: Having said that try adding a sub first and see if you're happy with just that. E39 are painful for subs if you don't have a ski pass. Check behind the armrest to see if you've got a solid metal wall or whether it's precut - some are precut with the plate tack welded in. If it's precut you can knock it out and still have a road legal car. If it's not precut then you can't cut a hole without making it illegal. Without a ski pass, I'd fabricate a small box that fits into the arm rest void - you should be able to fit an 8" or similar size sub in there and it sounds like you'd be happy with that level of bass. Use the BSW subwoofer install guide to step you through the process cos it tells you which wires to tap into for signal etc. Battery is in the boot so power wiring is a breeze. If you have a ski pass then a 10" sub in the boot would do the trick. Front and rear Speakers: And if you go butchering the wiring (which I'd expect if you don't understand audio or electronics as you stated) then resale value drops. So I'd get the BSW speaker kit; actually I'd save some cash and just get the fronts for about US$320 - they only replace the midbass and tweeter, not the midrange. It's plug and play so you can uninstall in december and sell on separately. I wouldn't bother replacing the rears, especially not in a 6 month car. Importing: GST kicks in if value of goods + shipping costs more than NZ$400. So over $400 you pay GST on value and shipping. Under $400 and there's no GST. There's no duty on car audio either so GST is the only thing you have to consider.

I'm not a fan of the X series, and without a front amp and some work on the door enclosures (e39 has plastic pods) nothing is going to sound overly good. I'd go for a more midrange 5.25 components.

lol. I one had to plan an enclosure around a stroller. How priorities change. Nice work BTW. It'll now be another 6 months before you get another uninterrupted day to work on the car.

This comes up all the time on BMW forums. For some reason some of the aftermarket harnesses use the electric aerial wire to turn on the factory amp. You need the remote on wire to do this. Usually just a case of swapping over the blue and the blue/white wires in the harness.