sweetm3

Hi-TekStandard no - suspension-brakes-R888's etc I'm going to start a project tread with mods done

Had a great day, got home in one piece set a new PB 1.18.31

Anyone else going down tomorrow ?

Thanks Glen

Hi Guys looking to install a Water Temperature gauge. Looking at the parts detail drawing in the area circled I have a Hex nut next to a sensor. if I remove the hex nut I'm thinking I could I fit my new sensor in that location. Am I right Cheers

Hi Rich Hope this helps these quotes are from 2010 when I was looking round for a BBK I went with Racingbrake US. Changed to 8" rims up front with 10mm spacers had a couple of hickups but they sorted it out for me. And once I had figured why the first set of pads were toast after one track day they didnt get up to temp (these front rotors dont require any cooling) I have had no problems. They great. What ever you choose check the US for racing pad prices I found them a lot cheaper PM me if you have any questions I may help with Mark Quote from Race Brakes NZ front only AP Racing Front 330mm 4 pot kit (17†wheels) is $3830 plus gst = $4308.75 Up-rated Pads Cost $ 806.62 Slotted Rears Cost$ 253.12 Total $ 5368.49 XYZ NZ 330 x 32 floating rotor/6 piston brake kit with sprt/race pads Cost $2490 Slotted rear rotors Cost $339 pr Performance pads $118 Total $ 2947 Floating is now not available. The fixed rotor kit is $2390 Massive Brakes 332 X 32 6 pot calipers front only $1700 US $ 300 US shipping Total $ 2000 US = $ 3193.92 incl GST still have to add pads and rear rotors but would be cheaper than below as the rear rotors would only be slotted one piece RacingBrake US 328 X 28 4 pot calipers front + full floating 2 piece rears +pads + shipping +gst = 4556.01 The other problem with Massive and RacingBrake as I require 20mm spacers to fit them under my 7 1/2" street rim but they work fine with my track rims and my 10mm spacers

$7700 to have the wife’s Hyundai Sanfe reconditioned. That’s with me dropping out the motor & gear box and helping putting it back in. I’m going to be checking her oil from now on. The only positive is I now have some leverage when I want to spend some money on my car for something “I want†not need. I have to say she knows me too well as her first comment when hearing the costs was “it’s not dollar for dollar†bugger

Merry Christmas everyone

My standard 3.2 dyno's at 184.8 Kw, hope you dont mind me butting in BrettMark

Micheal PM me your email address and I'll send a couple of photos to you

Kerry just like car motors, outboard motors require regular servicing usually on hours done or once a year. This can cost a couple hundred for a basic service, but at 500hr and then 700hrs you are looking a mayor costs. I haven’t hit those kind of hours yet but a mate has and it wasn’t cheap, basically a recondition. Some things to think about, Bigger is better, in a 14 footer unless you’re a diehard fishman you won’t go out any weather over 10-12 knots max Lighter is better, less power required to get on the plane, cheaper to run, easier to launch Alloy up to 6mtrs , can be launched by one person off a beach or ramp, can be parked on a beach for a picnic or if you get into trouble Fibreglass, nicer finish, nicer ride (but I still wouldn’t go out in anything over 10-12 knots) As for motors, check the service history, also spend some money on having an inspection done. Unlike a car if it breaks down you cannot just get out and walk home. Hope this helps Fair weather fishman Aka sweetm3

Had some quality time with my bimmer at Hampton Downs

Check this out TM

Hi Guys finally attached spoiler to spare boot lid and fitted to car. Looks good from a distance

Visa currency exchange fees a % I thinkGST on total cost; product, shipping if over $400NZ Niether have ever stopped me from buying as it's still always cheaper

Agree totally with Allan

My thoughts exactly

Reason for project I wanted to try out a high rear spoiler wing at the track to see if I could knock some more time off my laps. So I brought a 2 piece low GT CF spoiler and a boot lid off trademe a month or 2 ago. The project was to try and turn the spoiler into a high 4 piece spoiler. I tried to make the risers myself starting out by forming the risers from foam not very successfully so I gave up and just cheated, brought a pair of risers from the states. I then had to figured out, how to connect the pieces together. Done Now this was my first attempt at CF and I have never done FG either, so it was pretty ambitious to say the least. With multiple angles, curves, sides and a join, laying out was fun. But the real fun started when trying to wet out the fibre. Here’s my process for what it’s worth Cut CF to approx size Mix 4:1 resin with a bit of black pigment added, for the first coat for depth Wet out riser, Lay down CF over riser, attempt to trim to make a nice join (never happened) Wet out top of CF x 3 approx 15min between coats, pour and brush coats on, turning the piece multiple times to try and stop runs and drips (as a dried drip has an air bubble under it) Hit the piece with a blow torch between coats to remove air bubbles (only mildly successfully) Let dry over night and then sand with 180, 400, 800, 1000 and 1200 to smooth Another top coat of resin to get the last ripples or low points out Let dry Sand 180, 400, 800, 1000 and 1200 Things I did wrong or didn’t work for me When first wetting the form piece with black pigment resin don’t over wet or it seeps between the CF weave and you loss the pattern Don’t have any joins They say to dab the resin coats on with a paint brush, I tried and caught the weave Heat gun didn’t work on the air bubbles it didn’t get hot enough I think Put enough top coats down so you don’t sand down to the CF when trying to smooth out Conclusion If it’s your first time CFing and it’s a smallish, simple piece your doing, go for it. If it’s a complicated piece and for show give it to a professional Or if you’re like me and don’t mind that it’s not perfect because you hope you will be going so fast no one will see it or maybe the rest of the spoiler is not perfect either go for it. I purchased Carbon Fibre and resin from NZ Fibreglass. By the way the extra boot and spoiler will only be fitted when I go to the track Project remaining items Clear coats and working out an easy way of disconnecting the wire loom in my boot.

Had a go at laying carbon fibre won’t be giving up my day job

If you are in a BMW and driving it properly it shouldnt be a problem but if you are being tail gated on a single lane road, you must be out for a quiet sunday drive so pull over and let them bye.

The States are the same outside lane is for over taking, or moving into if someone has broken down or there is an on ramp. In the part of Mexico where I stayed they only had 1 ½ lanes so you drove on the shoulder only pulling out into the lane proper when you’re overtaking

Your right bbs, polyurethane bushes. I got hold of a set of Eibach sway bars wanted to renew the bushes, couldnt buy them in NZ or Oz. Had to have my brother in the USA call Eibach get a part # order them and ship down. Once I have the right grease I'll install sway bars, polyurethane bushes and new GC adjustable links. 3Pedals I will have to try Stocks or Autolign Sunday if not then on Monday was hoping for someplace this weekend. Cheers

I’m wanting to put on my new poly sway bar bushes and have read that it’s recommended to use synthetic or silicone based grease. I have tried Repco & Super Cheap with no luck, anyone with a product name and supplier Cheers

Not engine parts but: Cross brace, Spacer Set for Rear Trailing Arm Bushings, basically renew any bushes that will tighten up the suspension. Once your have your list together, I would check out Turner Motorsports, then email your list to Doug Mahar [dugmar@turnermotorsport.com] get a quote off him as I have found their shipping cost are the cheapest and fast as they use FedX (with no mark up), Pelican use UPS.

Absolutely stunning, I look forward to seeing it in action