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silvermace

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About silvermace

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  • Car
    BMW 328 Ci 1999
  1. Pretty sure they wont fit an M3 as M3 rear axle uses 5 series wheel config, though not sure if thats true for an E36-M3 I'm really not sure what they are worth 2nd hand, net research shows $6k new price, doubt its as low as $500 though Glenn. They aren't bent, when they came off the car they were fine and have been sitting in a garage since then. -Danu
  2. Make an offer, looking for something around $2,500. Text Danu on 021-813-733. Viewers welcome, but no time wasters please - located in Manukau City, Auckland. These are original: made in italy, designed in germany - see photos. Improves handling and braking significantly. Looks stunning and very unique, can almost guarantee these are the only set with this configuration in the country. Very deep dish makes your vehicle look aggressive but not tacky - see photos on the car. Make your E36, E46 or E92 stand out and get heaps of looks (even more than usual). Came straight off my E46 328Ci (because I was selling the car) should fit on any non-M BMW 3 series since the E36. Wheels are in good condition apart from expected curbing, just need to grind the lips (if you even care), any mag shop can do this for you. Have falken 451s all around - rears are usable, fronts have camber wear - you will need new tyres but will include existing rubber in this auction. Rears run 275/30 ZR19 (stretched) and fronts run 245/35 ZR19. stud spacing is BMW-3 standard: 5x120, so possibly fits a holden. Heaps of caliper clearance. ET38 on front, ET44 on rear. Rear 10J x 19 Front 8.5J x 19 Going on trademe soon, thought I would offer it up to Bimmersport members first.
  3. I will just put my 2c in because most people have just decided to point out your flawed thinking rather than trying to convince you to get the work done once and done right. I used to have an E46 328Ci, it was in pretty good condition - the engine was silky smooth and the overall look of the car was pretty tight. Unfortunately, it still needed the control arms, brakes and some of the cooling+intake components replaced - approx $6000 worth of work. The initial shock of realising that my seemingly untroubled BMW needed alot of work to get 100% right, and timing on some other personal/work related issues put me off, thinking it didnt need to be done. But eventually, I came to my senses and got the work done, and boy oh boy did it hurt to be forking out $6k after paying out a decent amount for the car. The end result, was a much better car and (as a petrol head) a life lesson. I know you're probably in a sticky situation - you've got this car that is too valuable to just scrap, but the work needed compared to the initial cost of the car seems too much. All I can say is you need to get it done, or you need to get rid of the car - and the ethical thing is to make sure the new owner knows of the problems, dont just fob off the issues! there really isn't a middle ground - trust me, I have searched for it. When I had to get the work done, Glenn was very helpful, he pointed out what needed urgent attention and I brought the car in once a month for 3 or 4 months till everything was done. By the end of the experience, I knew my BMW alot better, I knew alot more about what to look for when buying my next car, AND at the end of it I had a much better car than I test drove when I bought it! And you know the best thing? I was rewarded for doing that initial investment. In the end, when I went to sell the car, It was easy to be honest about the fact the car was 100% solid, I ended up selling the car over a year later with 20,000km added to the clock, for more than I paid for it - a rarity in the non-classic BMW world! I hope this helps you make the right decision. Kind Regards, -Danu
  4. Thanks mate, looks fantasticle. I'm quite keen on the car, love the look of these old beasts.
  5. also, does anyone know a quick way to check the oil spray bar without removing the valve cover?
  6. Found this great little gem: http://aaron.aussiefiverdriver.com/ has alot of E28 stuff, including buyers guide and some writeups for common jobs.
  7. Hey thanks heaps, you can email it to me if that's easier: silvermace at gmail dot com.
  8. Yea its a manual, Looks to be a 5sp one from the pics, I always thought they were 4s. But yea guy just passes a Wof day before, and before that replaced clutch slave cylinder. Will see what else needs doing.Thanks for the MyE28 resource, just found a nice list of things to check on a 535i, dont think most apply to eht 528i but good to be able to check anyways. Looking for an E28 haynes manual if anyone has a copy they want to sell to me ?
  9. Hi, i'm looking at an '86 E28 528i, import with 144,000km 1 owner for 20 yrs pretty much. Looking to buy, but dont know much about what to look out for in terms of common issues. I know about the following problems with the M30B28 - Engine fan viscous coupling - Valve rocker arms -> valves spacing adjustment - Oilfilter return valve failure - "oil spray bar" problem. Any one know of the rust spots on the car, and anything else you can advise? I got the list above from Wikipedia article on the M30 engine. -Danu
  10. on trademe now http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/C...n-203222696.htm
  11. haha cool man, lemme know, but really, in a 6-speed 540iS doesnt a trip to auckland take like 7 minutes
  12. Yup Manukau, Aucks. Come over and give em a go boss. 021-813-733
  13. C'mon people, wanna move these along taking up garage space... no one's interested? the tyres alone are worth more than the asking.... would consider seperating the rims from the rubber to bring down the rim cost if thats what would move them along.. $800 gets em.
  14. have pics on the previous owners car (e34)
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