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KwS

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Everything posted by KwS

  1. KwS

    ghastly 650i

    I don't HATE it, which is something i guess. Lose the wing, gunmetal the wheels, and it'd look better.
  2. I think I read somewhere that SAIC, who owns all those Chinese brands, were going to go out and have their own SAIC branded dealerships that encompassed all the sub-brands, and did away with the specific dealers? Maybe i read it wrong?
  3. Forget that, I saw the other day they are advertising a f**king VAN (MG V80) under the MG brand! Nothing is sacred anymore.
  4. Digital gauges AND wood. Dave must be so conflicted 🤣
  5. KwS

    What'd you do to your BMW today?

    AC clutch should be disengaged anyway (if AC is off), so should only spinning the pulley and not the compressor
  6. The backwards tacho isn't what gets me, it's the f**k ugly "futuristic" look of those full LCD clusters. The 430i one looks great in comparison.
  7. For anyone that isnt on Trademe or Facebook, here is my car for sale. This is a full BMW E36 M3 that has been reshelled into an NZ New 328i shell as the M3 was imported from South Africa and couldn't be complied. Everything has been swapped, including all engine, suspension, driveline, wiring, gauge cluster (with working oil temp), interior etc. The only thing left 328i is the shell. Boston Green S50B30 3.0L ZF 5 Speed Manual LSD Black leather Vader interior Style 24 7.5" M3 wheels with new Pirelli tyres Full audio setup in boot Tidy inside and out. Some minor paint blemishes here and there and a couple of minor dings. Interior has no rips and minimal wear on seats. Some wear/age on steering wheel and shifter leather. AC doesn't work. Runs and drives great, very nice, and fun, to drive. Has a rough idle when cold but doesn't affect driving. Various work has been carried out, including a new head gasket and timing chain/tensioners, new roof lining, vanos solenoid seals, valve cover gasket, CCV and all pipes, ICV piping, Guibo, fan clutch, spark plugs and coil packs, and various other seals etc. Has no cert, but previous owner has had no issues getting WOF over past 4 years. Would make a good basis for a weekend toy, a track car, or just a daily with some poke. Intention was to fit adjustable suspension and recaro seats before cert, but plans have changed. Might be interested in swaps, but prefer cash $12k
  8. I feel 12k will get me a wheel or two of that gtr 😅 😓
  9. KwS

    NZ NEW E34 540iA $3900!

    Forgot about that. Looked like a good base for restoration despite its roughness and LHD.
  10. KwS

    Wrapped interior wood

    Really? You can't? Wood has a nice "natural" look and feel, more so than bloody aluminium or high gloss plastics. Plenty of luxury car interiors would disagree with you.
  11. KwS

    Forum clean up?

    Thanks for your work. I did notice the CarFolie sponsor link (logo on front page) on general discussion still goes nowhere.
  12. Interesting, I dont think it said it was being sold registered when I first looked, as i remember wonder if it was dereg (like most crashed/written off or stolen cars)
  13. KwS

    New e28 525i - won't accelerate!

    Disconnect rubber fuel hose from injector, and plug with bolt and clamp. Disconnect electrical connector. Those style cold start injectors were used on a few Bosch EFI setups in the 80s and they are known to leak and cause issues. Disconnecting the electrical connector only wont stop it leaking.
  14. KwS

    S50B30 VANOS

    Its a bloody steal at that price. Have you tried listing on ebay or an overseas forum? The market for them here is pretty small
  15. So four years ago (woah, four years!) I had a rather decent early E36 M3. I had a thread here, Unfortunately I made the mistake of selling that car, and M3s aren't getting any cheaper, so now it's harder than ever to get another one. Rubbish ones are expensive and good ones are even more expensive. A couple of months ago I purchased an E91 335i, which although having been modded, so it was fast, it was as dull as bricks to drive otherwise. I wanted another analogue car, like an M3, where the only driving is done by me, not a computer. I put the E91 up for sale and got offered an E36 M3 for a swap, which of course I'm going to be super interested in. Unfortunately the seller was someone reluctant to provide VIN details of the car initially, and it turned out that it was actually a 328i that had had a full M3 conversion. Initially I wasn't interested, I wanted a "real" M3, but the more I thought of it, the more a reshelled car actually made sense to me. I didn't want to modify my previous M3 much, as i was concerned about ruining its "originality", so a car that already wasn't original means i can do the mods i didn't do to the previous M3. It sadly also means that it doesn't hold the same value as a real M3, but oh well. So this is what I have ended up. 1996 BMW 328i Shell (New Zealand New) Boston Green Metallic Slicktop The donor M3 was a South African spec BF92 1996 M3 in Daytona Violet 3.0L S50B30 engine (no emissions gear, no cats, but the full fat engine unlike the early SA spec cars) 5 Speed manual with LSD Vader seats (Nappa leather) M3 suspension and brakes The donor had aluminium doors, but they weren't carried over The only mods are 20" Chrome Work VS-KF Full sound system with full boot install and a sully sik early 00s flip up touch screen headunit Everything else is stock M3. Unfortunately the car is a complete basket case, and has way more issues than expected and more keep popping up every day. The good thing is that I love a project, and fully intend to have this car as a nice solid car I can enjoy driving. The good first New headlining Good condition interior (except steering wheel where all the leather has been removed) Tidy exterior (and Boston Green is a stunning colour!) Smooth gearbox and quiet engine (other than Vanos noise) Head gasket and timing chain recently done, with head professionally cleaned up So far the issues identified are Vanos is dead. No power below 4000rpm, and can hear the usual grumble/rattle. (Kinda fixed) Starter doesn't always engage first time (free spins and engages when key is released, and then will start next try) (Fixed) Passengers window only goes up about an inch at a time (Seems to have fixed itself for now) Ignition barrel sometimes free spins (Fixed) Airbag light stays on a long time before going out. Codes for passenger occupancy sensor (Fixed) Shifter bushings well and truly gone (Fixed) A high idle (Fixed) A vacuum leak (Fixed) Headlight low beam not working on one side (since fixed. Fuse) Oil cap hemorrhaging oil (Fixed) All exterior rubber seals badly perished Driveshaft coupling cracked and falling to bits (Fixed) Clutch bites at the floor and the clutch pedal is offset/twisted to the left (Fixed) Washer bottle sensor failed (Fixed. Sensor upside down) No ext. temp sensor connected Gearbox selector shaft seal leaking (Fixed) Hose clamps missing or loose on fuel lines under car (Fixed) Front LH tire losing pressure (Fixed) 20" wheels rub on all four guards (Also Fixed) Muffler hangers loose (Fixed) Throttle stop badly adjusted so no WOT (Fixed) Worn out and perished throttle cable (Fixed) Aux fan not working (Fixed, fuse) And there will no doubt be more things I discover as i go. In the meantime the car is mostly driveable, albeit leaking oil from the oil cap quicker than I can clean it off, and pumping the tire up each time I drive it. The plans are to fix all the above issues, starting with the wheels are are stupid and huge, and then finally getting around to doing some mods. I have also ordered a bunch of other parts already, including Vanos seals. Unfortunately the seller twisted the truth on the KM the donor car had on it, claiming the cluster fitted to the car was sourced from a friend and is from a different M3, and the original donor has about 80,000km less than the cluster (and the donors cluster was faulty so it was sold). INPA confirmed that the cluster is the one from the original donor.... so yeah. I'm looking at maybe fitting a pair of Recaro seats, as they are more comfortable than the Vaders, but need to look further into he mounts for the floor. The sound install in the boot will probably be coming out and standard boot linings/trim fitted. The subs sound average, likely due to settings on the amps, and i don't care enough to set them up properly. I also want to upgrade the suspension, but keep standard-ish height (due to my steep driveway). Thinking Koni shocks and either stock springs or H&R. Swaybars are apparently a good upgrade too, as are binning the original rubber bushes. This is the story of my 1996 BMW M328i In the meantime, here are some photos.
  16. Well this is a familiar job, the old brake light switch failure. A few drives ago I noticed the familiar "BRAKE LIGHT CIRCUIT" warning on the Check Control. Initially it was just a random warning that would pop up occasionally, but when checked, the rear lights still worked. Unfortunately this escalated quickly, to the point where when I drove the car to and from work the other weekend, the warning would come up straight away, and sure enough, no brake lights were lit when the pedal was pressed. Eek. Back to the rear fog light when braking trick. I touched on this error on my first E36, where I had the same issue. I replaced the switch a few times on that car due to faulty new parts, but eventually I got a good switch and the warning went away. Replacement is fairly easy, once you know how the retention system works. If you try to fight the retaining clips, you will just make it much harder to get out. This is the switch, in it "ready" state as it would be when installed in the car. The red collar is pressed into the body, and the plunger is short To release the switch retaining clips, you need to extend that red collar by pulling it away from the body. There is one catch though, the plunger will not allow you to pull the collar out far enough, if the switch has been fitted, as the plunger doesn't extend out far enough. The plunger is on a ratcheting system, and needs to be forcefully pulled away from the body. With the plunger extended, the red collar easily slips forward, and will allow the retaining clips to be pushed inwards, allowing the switch to be removed To access the switch, you need to remove the lower knee trim. Its held on with three screws (one under headlight switch in the square recess, one under the dial for cluster brightness, and the other above the clutch pedal) Once that is removed, the switch is mounted above the brake pedal To release the red collar, you need to push the pedal down, extend the plunger, and then slip the red collar out. Only then can you violently wiggle the switch around until it comes out of its bracket. This isn't an easy task to do. The trick is to either have the car engine running, or press the pedal down immediately after shutting the engine off, so that there is vacuum in the booster and the pedal can travel down far enough to allow the plunger to come out. A lot of people get stuck there, you cannot extend the plunger far enough if the pedal cannot be pushed down. I used a screwdriver to lever the plunger out, and then my hand slide the collar forward, whilst holding the pedal down with my other hand. DO NOT release the brake pedal until you have the switch removed, or it will just push the plunger and collar back in thanks to the ratchet. Once the switch is free, you can release the brake pedal and if you haven't already, disconnect the wiring connector. New and old side by side. There was a bit of wear on the end of the plunger, so despite not having a date stamp, I suspect its original. To fit the new switch, ensure the plunger and collar is fully extended, push the brake pedal down (doesn't need to be all the way like removal) and then push the switch into the bracket until it clicks in. Slip the red collar down towards the body so the switch can't come out. Now release the pedal, and you should hear it ratchet the plunger in. Plug the switch in, and test. You shouldn't have any warnings on Check Control now, and the brake lights should work when the key is ON, and pedal is pressed. Reinstall the trim, and away you go. Done.
  17. RIP Atta Such a sad situation, and a real waste. I didn't know him personally but read all his posts about his E30, and what a car it is.
  18. KwS

    09 335i(n54) Dct FBO $32999

    On an N54 . Tehehehehehe Good looking car with all the good bits on it, and with the superior dct trans too. Glws.
  19. Incense cones are what I used. Two in a jar, plenty of smoke.
  20. It doesn't, it's only used for the OBC functions.
  21. Disagree, it's what I used (as have others) and it works well. Plenty of smoke. Nothing/-37c, it's disconnected/missing.
  22. Not really, no. It's only when cold and doesn't impact driving, so after researching it a lot and finding multiple other S50B30 owners with similar cold idle issues and no answers, I decided to live with it instead of throwing more parts at it. It is rich when cold, so could be fuelling or temp sensor related (despite no codes and live data being good), but I have smoke tested my intake and no leaks, and new coils and plugs only made the warm idle smooth out. Compression test results were good, so the engine is basically happy, I think it's something the DME is seeing and isn't liking when cold. DIS is too slow and basic to help try and diagnose an issue like this, it's a real shame I can't use INPA.
  23. Couple of spanner wielding friends have those sets and swear by them.
  24. For the right price.
  25. That's a weird place for something like that to end up, with only somewhat minor issues listed. Wonder if the engine tapping is the normal injector noise or worse?
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