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Beeker2

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Beeker2 last won the day on February 2 2015

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About Beeker2

  • Rank
    2nd Gear

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  • Name
    Noel
  • Location
    Auckland
  • Car
    Audi RS6

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  • Gender
    Male

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  1. Anyone recommend who can do this as a turn key service for me ?
  2. The e36 has some minor under body corrosion developing. I heard fish oil was a quick fix to limit it ? thoughts?
  3. Before i list it, just looking for some advice on its value? Full exhaust from headers back. Removed as a race car project. Aprox 120kms when it came off. Let me know your thoughts. thanks!
  4. Been a while since my last post, but thought I would provide an update on the abs setup. We originally had it disabled (Ecu removed), but still plumbed in. We also had a Willwood bias valve to adjust rear bias (but can only reduce over oem setting, not more). As it turn out that was a bad idea. After starting to really drive the car, we found the brakes wouldn’t unlock quickly when you’re right on the limit, consider it a bit sticky to stay locked once you lock it up. Ugly really, and it actually put me off the road on a stage, luckily very minor damage. After changing my undies I went out to hamptons to repeat the over driving scenarios and managed to recreate the scenario where is doesn’t quickly unlock once you lock and then you have wait for what seems like eternity before you get brake or steering back. Back to the workshop. Completely pulled the abs pump out and installed an AP racing rear bias valve (more adjustability than willwood). Then back to the track to simulate lockup’s Bingo, fixed. I can now lock up the brakes, yet release them and immediately have the brakes unlock. The on / over limit characteristics are where they should have been and now a ball of fun to live on or over the limit. Now I’m not sure whether it was just the disabled abs pump that did it, or it was the second bias valve for the rear, or combination. But if your setup sounds anything like this, ensure you do some decent lockup testing prior to race day.
  5. Anybody know of any for sale ? I prefer the OEM ones if possible
  6. all gone long ago i'm afraid only the 3.0 stock exhaust when i get around to that.
  7. Abs delete, saved 4.8kg Morseo, on limit braking is better, will post more on that series of changes and recommendations later.
  8. re: Bonnet, Its a UK sourced Geoff Steel Racing Bonnet, Boot, Spoiler. Exchange rate was better when i got them RE: Seats. The 4119 is expensive, but its an excellent seat. Comfee, Rigid (3rd point mount), safe.
  9. Finally plumbed in some tubing from the rear 1/4 window ducts to the back of the racetech 4119 seats which have a socket for this purpose. You can definitely feel a slight breeze in your lower back at motorway speeds. If needed we can always put an inline fan in there You get pretty hot in a 3 layer suit, a car which is being thrashed and no insulation between you and the engine/driveline. oh, and no aircon
  10. As the car has a fiberglass bonnet we have no bonnet shocks to hold the bonnet up and its not recommended to hack refit them either as it stresses the thin fiberglass. I could have got an old broom stick, but have seen soooo many of these end in FAIL when it gets windy. So, i've created two bonnet stays which attach/lock into the bonnet end and radiator end using the bonnet aero pins or sockets. One is for the service crew which is longer, more robust, also has a door stopper spring in one end to give it flexibility during attachment to ensure we don't twist and damage the bonnet Aero fitting when attaching / de attaching, the other is a shorter and lighter version for storage in the boot for roadside issues. These are my home hack prototypes. Service crew version I cut the Alu pole and inserted a door stopper spring in the middle, then wrapped in electrical tape to get the right level if rigidity The lighter weight car boot version hangs to underside of parcel tray (can slide in and out, no cutters required, its fits snug and doesn't seem to move or vibrate) Will probably v2.0 refine over time.
  11. We are debating how long it will last. But..It is spring loaded and will retract to flush with the bumper if pushed hard. They are USD$240 for a genuine splitter base (excluding brackets fittings etc), plus freight / gst. There is an AU targa rally car that also runs one, so there is a 'hope' it will last, but time will tell. The car is also set up quite high and i tend to not cut corners, so finger crossed. Remember this is tarmac not gravel or cross. We also have a solid sump guard right behind it which should take some of the cars weight should we botton it somewhere. Ask me next month after Bambina.
  12. Got most of it from the USA (much much cheaper), but still cost a few bucks.
  13. Finally got the genuine BMW motorsport front splitter on Very integrated fitment with the sump guard, allows the slitter to slide back and forth under it
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