_ethrty-Andy_

I hate working part time... im working 6 days for the next two weeks haha. only days off the 25th and the 1st! But merry xmas all from me too!

I pay 1200 for an E30 worth 5000 haha. insurance companies arent your friend! But yes the premiums do go back up after 65ish depending on your history

looks to be a bit of a self answering question but sounds like your fuel pump is dead. take it out and hotwire it straight to the battery (it wont kill it if you do connect it up, verify it does something then disconnect) and see what happens

I didnt know they did an MSport of the M30! you learn something everyday!

Want some M50 with your turbo? edit: so many M50 swaps in this thread.. i got mixed up. what is that?

i paid 100 to have the tyres on my 17" put on, incl a discount coz my mate works there.. they do charge more as the rim size goes up because it is harder to put the tyre on aparently and logically

I have one, $15 + shipping or can meet you in hamilton mid january on my way to auckland. PM me if you are interested?

Well i left it and put the car back together, and ive just taken the diff out of the 316i, and the rear axles in that are identical! the left side pushed in sorta and the right the rounded dome! i wonder if they are ment to be like one of those OEM and then aftermarket ones the other! thought id throw this find up incase someone else has the same find

Will carry multimeter in the car from now on Will do Thats an excellent resource im sure. ive saved it or future referance. M40 and M20 starters arent the same are they? i have a spare M40 one..

Everytime the engine cranks over she will start up so not a spark or fuelling issue. its sometimes when you switch the key to start nothing happens, except i hear a click like a relay tripping but nothing else. is there a relay for the starter motor? How do the wires to the auto shift selector (which are now shorted as part of the manual conversion) intergrate into this system to stop the car starting in drive? i should have investigated when i put my new dash in. Edit: for the record i dont have an imobiliser.. i havent wired it up yet because it is just going to get in the way of sorting this problem

if you use the stuff from Repcos it doesnt efect the colour of the lights. My indicators still flash yellow and as bright as they always are, and the tails, brake lights and reverse lights are all the correct colours too

Not to mention the really anal WOF places will ping you for it because they cant be assed walking the 200m back or whatever the distance is to see if they are visible. it just saves the hassle

i believe you can run neons if they are correct colour, ie you are allowed red on the back and white/blue possibly yellow on the front, and none on the sides. so you may as well not have them. best neons in the wheels wells = carbon ceramic brakes

Rice. you wont catch me doing it. I used to rock them in my foot wells... took that sh*t out haha

Funny you should say that. i asked for extra hours at work over the xmas break when everyone is on holiday. I plan to M50 or M52 in the new year

I knew you werent having a dig? yeah the resistor pack isnt overly time consuming to remove and is only like $2 or something so im not that phased by it

I know this! thats why im going to call you tomorrow as per yourr PM! (or now?) i called you yesterday but you must have been out?

Well i went out and brought an AFM and put that in, then i swapped the diff 4.45Open -> 3.67LSD, and while under the car i noticed the sensor in the cat had come out so i screwed that back in. Obviously the LSD makes a different being lower ratio, but its either the AFM or the Cat sensor that fixed it, or both. turns out my fuel gauge isnt working though either (i know because the tank said empty, took it to the petrol station and only put 20-30 liters in). Is a bad sender, the gauge cluster has just been rebuilt and i double checked everything and made sure the earths were tight

i refused to believe it too so i tried them in a mates car. 10 = exaggeration for 4, but still. I might have one sorted now though.

mmm ive brought like 10 there and im sick of getting home and finding they dont go. the wont let me take my multimeter in to test them erghhh

So top of them need to be rethreaded to fit properly? im not quite sure what you are saying sorry

yeah might do that. trouble is that it is very intermittent. sometimes it will happen, it will be fine for a week or more and then it will do it again. this is the first time that it has cut out on me though. On the plus side i have fixed my bad fuel economy now though, pity the two problems arent related as i though they might be :S

Red 3 Black 1 It looks good on black cars and on white cars imho, especially with a factory spoiler or MT1 or 2 Edit: whichever you chose (which looks like its going to be red!) paint them on the inside of the lens, not the outside. The can told me to spray it on the outside even though my judgement told me not to, and i wish id followed my head. Havent got around to redoing them yet

mm didnt think about the earth. (LOL) I have an ignition switch here so ill see how i go with that Â

heya. tried starting the car today and it wouldnt do it. was right in the middle of xmas shoping grrr. Car is ex-auto so my first thought was those wires coming loose (the car has done it before and this fixed it). relinked them and nothing. checked the leads to the starter and they were sweet. tried starting again, nothing. Texted my mate to come tow me home (he works 5 ins away and would have been leaving at 12 anyway) and then straight after that cranked it and she started up. texted him not to worry and then set off home, and then the car lost power. because the car was rolling at 50, it sort of crash started itself and carried on going and i got home. Any ideas? i would imagine these two ideas are linked. Master Relay? Bad ignition switch maybe?