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dirtydoogle

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dirtydoogle last won the day on October 12 2019

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About dirtydoogle

  • Rank
    4th Gear
  • Birthday 01/05/1989

Previous Fields

  • Name
    Doug
  • Location
    Hawkes Bay
  • Car
    E36 328i/2
  • Mods List
    Kicked the clutch
  • Car 2
    E36 316i
  • Car 3
    E53 3.0d 6M
  • Race Car
    E36 325i

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  • Website URL
    http://
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    0

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Interests
    Bikes, beemers...

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  1. That's quite true. But there's a whole lot more as circuit cars here in NZ than drifting. I'll stick to hoarding parts and driving old British cars instead
  2. I knew hoarding e36 manual conversions and useless OEM junk was my great retirement plan
  3. Use high tensile or stainless threaded rod, 12mm. Perfectly adequate The tool I have uses 12mm galv threaded rod and that's fine, unless you haven't aligned it correctly My tool is much the same as the one in the OP
  4. Getting an old laptop with a serial port is the way to go, but not as easy to set up as the plug and play foxwell I have a tinyADS interface for pre obd2 cars and run win7 on an old HP elitebook and it works extremely well for early and later model
  5. That's a spanner in the works Well, if it was placed there I would suggest access from under the car is the way Or just go from the top with skinny arms
  6. Follow the wiring in the clipped on harness that runs over the thermostat housing, that will lead you to your sensor above the pulley As far as I can tell only US market m44 ran the sensor under the manifold. I've got a Jap market one here and have had an nz new one, both triggered off the pulley. I am yet to personally see an m5x or m4x in nz that triggers off the rear
  7. You won't be running in to a restriction as such with forced induction on the standard cams until the 600+hp mark anyway. There are definitely gains to be had with a better cam design but it all depends on what you're wanting as an end result A basic re-grind will only take off some of the base circle, leaving you with a longer duration but the same slow ramp speeds. It is possible to build the lobes up and grind them to a better spec but for that cost you could get an off the shelf unit
  8. I have a tool in hastings I'm happy to lend out. They're very easy to make up and much handier than a square to use Glad you sorted it
  9. Any of the bmw OEM cam swaps are fairly mediocre and the biggest benefit would be more gas extraction lowering chamber temps and not increasing much hp. If you were keen a set of decent aftermarket cams will do wonders, but I personally wouldn't bother with the m50nv intake cam on the exhaust side, or the m54 cam swap, both are poorly specced cams and lend very little power gain
  10. It's nice to see that car go to a decent owner! Most "nice" e36s are getting wrecked by flat bill hat wearing vapers, Will be cool to see this car tidied up properly
  11. Keep in kind with excessive carbon build up you may have poor valve sealing so be prepared to do an oil change after and let it crank a bit before firing. Direct injection is a total pain in the arse.
  12. That's not too bad at all. Walnut blasting is the safest way because you don't risk etching any of the surfaces Otherwise start with the least aggressive approach possible. You could get the majority out with gun cleaning brushes and degreaser
  13. Being an HK car I suspect ZF, pretty sure only SA and JDM were Jatco?
  14. What was the cause of failure? If the fuel filter isn't done regularly they tend to have a lovely habit of diluting the oil especially with lots of cold starts. But that's a servicing fault. We ran two for towing at my last job and the 3.0d was solid as a rock. The 30d/sd was a pain though. Not as trouble free as the e53s were
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