dimsim

bump.... @promo

@promo

are you able to help at all with this type of repair?

34 minutes ago, M3AN said:

My Android unit retains full CCC compatibility FWIW.

Hey thanks for the info... was that for your E87? Can you give me details on your Android unit? Ideally I was think about going for an Apple Carplay retrofit unit and replacing the flip up display etc...

My E87 130i (10/2006) has just started the tedious BMW logo reboot loop. Apparently due to insufficient cooling the BGA chip needs to be reflowed?

Has anyone had this repair carried out here? or can recommend someone that is good with chip reflowing that might be able to help?

I understand these are coded to the car so would prefer to have this repaired rather then buy a used unit that might possibly suffer the same fate.

I guess also i could change it out for an Andrioid unit but assume ill loose the other function of the CC like maintenance intervals, clock adjustment etc etc

Further update....

IGNITION SWITCH!

Replaced, now no longer have SRS light coming on randomly, either visor vanity light doesn’t trigger brake light warning or kill the radio, no power fault in SRS. So pretty much the same fault symptoms as the E39 and the E39/E38/E46/E83/E53/E85/E86 all share the same ignition switch  61326901961

There's a great DIY switch repair vid here the details what my switch was like. The contact that connect PIN 5 & 8 was rough as described and the activator was blackened so I guess there been some arcing there. I probably could have just cleaned it up but got a new switch from EUROSPARES so just replaced it.

Still have the these faults in the ABS

97 Variant coding, ABS/ASC control unit
67 Brake Light Switch (suspected)
94 Engine Speed via CAN

I’m not able to erase/reset these codes with my i910 so my guess is the scanner needs a software update or is incapable as it says it erases, I turn the key on off and back on and they are there again without even activating the brake light switch or it needs an ABS control unit. ABS works fine and there is no warning light in the instrument cluster so I’m happy to ignore until I find a better scanner or can try a better software version.

looks like its good now - thanks.

The notfifications are being sent from 114.31.212.20 to adding the range should be fine, although the notificaiton for you post aboe also got failed.

Hi, Im not receiving the forum notification emails because your webhost is sending them from a host outside of your SPF record,the record is set to FAIL and my mail server strictly enforces SPF.

I emailed Andrew last weekend and also created a support ticket earlier this month but havent had a response to either.

can someone PM me please and ill provide mroe details.

thanks.

9 hours ago, allan said:

Did you follow through by calling Glenn wealth of knowledge? The one i have covers belt tensioner wiring etc and faulty wiring giving codes 05.06  and how to fit a new wiring harness. Do a google search their is quite a few threads and videos covering this topic. .

SI Repair Instructions for Seat Belt Tensioner Ignition Circuit.pdf

It would seem that Allan also has a wealth of knowledge...  This might be getting closer to the problem now.

A while back I posted regarding an E46 electric seat recline gearbox repair. I bought the gearbox from Allan but couldn't find a way to replace without completely breaking down the seat which without the right tools and workshop space was simply too hard to complete. In the end I bought another complete E46 standard electric seat base and took the seat base front tilt motor and seat base and switching off my sports seats and fitted it to the standard seat base. As the loom was different I just swapped mine over to the new base to connect the extra motor. 

At the time i didn't notice anything wrong with the wiring but maybe that now requires a close look.

Is it that the wires just get brittle and break? Has anyone carried out that mod with purchasing the repair harness'

I've just read through the E46Fantics thread where the pretensioner loom is replaced and notice his scanner listed the fault as Table 10 Code 02. My iCarSoft 910-II list the fault at 10 Power Supply - so i wonder if it is just not as detailed and isn't listing the subcode?

11 hours ago, Olaf said:

Did you call Glenn?

Yes -  I spoke to Glenn and he said I needed a better scanner to track down the fault as there are so many different sensors and switches interconnected on the multiple control units involved in the fault. e.g ABS/SRS/ERS. Unfortunately there wasn't anyone he could recommend in Hawke's Bay.

I set about fixing individual faults codes and re-testing e.g replace brake light switch, clear and re-rest etc. and that has sorted the Emergency run problem.

Thanks Allan, I have recently fitted an occupancy sensor bypass to the passenger seat (this was installed quite a while ago before these faults) but i did notice the other day that some of the underseat loom was hanging down a bit so will check it out.

Think the SRS control unit is in the centre console between the two front seats so maybe this is a good place to start, I assume the occupancy sensor and seat belt tensioners are directly connected to the SRS control unit so this sound like a good place to look.

Do you know exactly what the problem was with the wiring?

ok, an update...

seems like the Brake Light Switch has fixed the trans emergency mode problem - phew!

But still getting an occasional SRS warning light pop up on the dash. It seems to come on initially then go out like it should, but will come on randomly when driving, the go out again. I’ve scanned it for fault code and it come up with a power supply fault so my guess is its losing power/voltage at various points.

I did replace one of the tail lights recently (the lens fell off) and the new light i fitted had the earth pin burnt out on it (seems like it was from a later model with the tail light earth problem hence the burn out pin. Either the brake light switch or this caused the stop lights to come on and stay on but I’ve since replaced the bulb holder with the old one and that has sorted that. I also at the same time checked the earths on both tail light connectors with a multi-meter and they both test fine.

But... I can now replicate that fault and the trans emergency mode light by switching on either of the vanity lights when driving. The trans light comes on and the brake lights come on along with both brake light bulb warnings on the instrument cluster then go out again after turning off the visor vanity light.

Looks like there was a similar fault with the E39 that pointed to an ignition switch so my guess is that its either that or a bad earth somewhere.

Anyone had any similar experiences or seen an issue like this and can help me with anything else i should be looking at?

Yes, pump was leaking from the little hole underneath and dripping down the front of the engine but so was the radiator tank by the top hose. In the end replaced the radiator and the water pump and all good. Was pretty tricky to determine if the radiator was leaking as it's kind of hidden but for future reference is anyone see's any white staining around that area then its likely it needs replacing.

I guess a pressure tester would have picked this up but I didn't have one. The radiator leaking was pretty evident after I had done the pump and replaced the coolant, as there was fresh coolant under the top hose at the radiator.

With cooling systems in these being an issue my recommendation would be if you are doing a radiator, do the pump at the same time and if you doing a pump make sure you take the radiator completely out and inspect it carefully along with the expansion tank.

ok, so more info... I hooked the scanner up again and went through querying everything I could.. under body I got ABS and there are three faults logged

96 Connection of EGS to CAN bus
67 Brake Light Switch (suspected)
94 Engine Speed via CAN

So connection of EGS to canbus would indicate a dodgy/loose/other connector on the trans control module? or dodgy/loose/other connector on the trans itself? or gear lever?

Brake light switch I think it self explanatory (I did read of someone else where this was the cause of someone else's Trans Emergency Light problem)

Engine Speed via CAN, my guess is that number come from the engine control unit via a crank sensor or something?

Is there a big plug somewhere that might have got some water in it, that could affect all of these?

2 hours ago, *Glenn* said:

You need a far better scanner to determine your fault. 

That could well be the case, but I still think its a little odd that I can no longer query the SRS system and cant help but think the CAN fault is a communication error to some of the control modules, which I assume a better scanner would still have trouble with.

What other things can I check without a better scanner?

Seems odd that the SRS light and the Trans emergency mode lights have come on at the same time.

2 hours ago, zero said:

If your trans is dead I have a good one for $200

Good to know, thanks.

1998 E46 328i Sedan, Auto

Trans is in emergency mode with the little Cog next t the gear indicator. Seems to operate ok and doesnt shift nastily or anything.  I've hooked up my carsoft 910 and it reads

97 CAN status, fault

Have searched everywhere but cant find much about that. Coincidentally the airbag light has come back on and I cant query the SRS for the fault code (communication error). It has been fine previoulsy when I installed an airbag bypass sensor for the passengers seat a while ago and reset the SRS.

Could they are related? Wondering if the SRS module wont query has this thrown the EGS into Emergency Mode?

I was driving along the other day and my left rear tailight lense just flew off and broke. only discovered it half an hour later on my return in the middle of the road - mostly in tact but missing one corner... anyway it has the clear lense at the top and an amber coloured indciator bulb fitted. The amber colour seemed to be wearing off so i thought why not replace it with an amber LED? There seem to be a lot around as well some that claim to be CANBUS compatible so not going to trigger any warning lights because of the lower resistance.

so to my question.... has anyone retrofitted LED bulbs successfully to their Beamer in place of the standard 1156 / 1157 / BA15S / BA15D bulbs?

also might pay to check your tail light lense next time and make sure they are secure, the right hand one on mine is also a little loose and looks like it needs to be silconed in place.

On ‎27‎/‎07‎/‎2016 at 1:09 PM, gjm said:

Keep praying it's not the heater matrix... I didn't find any damp inside the car, but I could smell coolant so hopefully that'll not be your problem.

Yeah I know what you mean. I was working at Shelly's when I had to do a recall that required the removal of a brand new E36 dash. While it was quite cool to take it all apart and get it back together you never know if you going to end up with any nasty rattles or squeaks! Actually that one was a breeze, I must have been the dash specialist as the next one I got was a Citroen - if you've ever had one of those out you'll know what I mean by "how many green wires does this thing have!" The French must have been colour blind.

22 hours ago, allan said:

Two things spring to mind,1. the "O" rings used to seal the radiator hoses they can become deformed also become hard. 2. A crack in the internal skin of the expansion tanks not common. Get the cooling system pressure tested when it is cold

Thanks Allan - I've looked and looked all around the hoses, tanks, radiator, temp sensors for leaks and haven't found a thing. After looking at youtube videos of other E46's I've realised that mine is actually quote tidy.

Anyway as per above it looks like it was a small leak form the waterpump that wasn't visible until taking the pulley off as it was water travelling from the WP down the front of the head/block then dripping onto the bottom engine cover.

Hopefully have it sorted tomorrow

On ‎27‎/‎07‎/‎2016 at 6:03 PM, Rubix said:

Do you hear any bubbling/gurgling from the expansion tank right after you shut the car off?
If there's residue on the expansion tank then there's coolant leaking - could be a failing tank cap, or possibly something like the heater control valve failing and causing over-pressurisation (hence buggling/gurgling) of the system, making it bubble out the top whilst driving, I had this exact issue in my M54 after replacing the entire cooling system, failed HCV was cause.

On your dash (with car running), hold the trip meter in until it flashes into test mode (About 5-7 seconds), click it until the number hits 19, wait one second, click it again to put it into test mode (19.1) then click it to 7 to show current coolant temp. useful for open road driving to see if you're overheating at all.

Thanks Ill try that. I did just buy a iCarsoft i910-II and found I could query the engine sensors. I did notice that one of the cooling system temps was 144 degrees! Is that temp that's within spec of normal use?

I however noticed the coolant level drop again overnight so I removed the lower engine cover off and found a drip! Pulled it all apart again today and took the belt and pulley off the water pump and saw a drip coming from the hole in the bottom - phew... so guess its a water pump.   Certainly couldn't see any leaks form the thermostat housing. I gave the water pump pulley a bit of a shake to see if it that was where the leak was and now after putting it back together its seems to be spewing al lot more water out with the belts and fan flicking it all over the place...! I suppose this is new as I have noticed this before when the engine was either hot or cold.

Have a water pump hopefully arriving tomorrow, so will replace and hopefully that is that!

Will update after.

I've read of some the common issue with these, expansion tank, radiator side tanks, temperature sensor o'ring and dont seem to have any of these problem. There is a tiny little bit of white residue on the expansion tank but it doesnt seem to get bigger yet i still lose maybe 100-200ml over an open road journey of about 50km.

I read here that the heater matrix can also be a problem but dont have a coolant smell inside and dont appear to have any water inside either. Ive had a good look around the block and cant see anything obivous.

I did take than fan and shroud off and had a good look on the inside of the radiator and it looked clean and dry - should it take it right out and look from the other side?

Does anyone have any other suggestions in what to look for?

Thanks

Very small amount of white staining at top of radiator header tank

Header tank stain up close

Expansion tank looks fine

Purchased the gearbox from Allan, but alas without stripping the seat right down, could not find a way to just replace the gearbox. The seat itself is really complicated with lots of sping tension in places so my guess is you would need some kind of jig and pulling equipment and a lot of time to do this.

I ended up buying a standard e46 electric seat base and stripping the backrest and seat cushion off, then swapping my sports seat tilt gear, wiring loom and adjuster swithcing to the standard base.

Have E46 seat motors, standard seat adjust switch, a tidy dark grey cloth seat cushion and the outside seat trim if anyone is interested,

Ended up buying san iCarsoft i910-II. Does pretty much everything, reads/resets trouble codes, reset the service light/airbag/light etc, provide live engine data etc. Was about $200 from ebay.

1998 E46 328i Sedan.

The drivers side seat recline stopped yesterday and when i actuate the switch i can have hear the motor running but no recline!

Have read elsewhere that a gear goes in the recline motor gearbox but that seems to be for E36's.

Anyone sorted this before?

Have got the seat out and taken a few pics. Tried to run the rod between the gearbox and opposite side recline gear rack but that wont turn at all.

The black arrow is the rod i tried to turn and the red arrow pointing to what i thing must be the gearbox. Looks like it would be tricky to get out?

The red arrow here is what i would call the recline rack and gear on the side opposite to the motor and the yellow arrow points to the rod that connects this and the gearbox under the seat.

Am I right or way off?