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Matth5

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Matth5 last won the day on February 16 2017

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About Matth5

  • Rank
    3rd Gear

Previous Fields

  • Name
    Matthew
  • Location
    Auckland
  • Car
    335i E92 MSport DCT
  • Mods List
    M Performance Power Kit, KW V2 coilovers, Performance Exhaust mod, BMS/CPE charge pipe

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    Male

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  1. Matth5

    Radar Detectors

    Probably caused by their blind spot detection.
  2. Matth5

    Quick rant thread.

    Oh man speaking of Trademe stupidity, I have another great example. Just got this question on my ad for a ladder - "How high is the ladder pls? Thanks" This is the ad: Lol.
  3. Matth5

    Quick rant thread.

    They didn't ask anything else though. Was more like they just wanted the ad read to them. Second paragraph.. I wasn't selling any tourings... I think you're thinking of someone else there
  4. Matth5

    Quick rant thread.

    Some people are dumb as sh*t. I have my house advertised for rent. All the basic stuff is listed. Some person phones and proceeds to ask how many bedrooms there are (on the ad), how much the total upfront bond is (1 week rent in advance + 3 weeks bond, they couldn't do the maths on this) and the start date (on the ad). This is why I hate having my number on ads, easier to ignore emails from idiots.
  5. Garage cleanout. Used bits are off the car at approx the 160 000km mark. Unsure if they were on it since new. Pick up is in Manurewa, Auckland. Meeting in Ellerslie is also possible during the week. $50 for used upper and control arms. TRW brand, stock (not M3). There is some Japanese (?) brand solid bushing in them. Drove fine but has visible cracking so maybe best to replace before using.As you can see, headlight adjustor rod is there. $10. Used Lemforder end link/tie rods assemblies, upper and lower. Left tie rod end one had some play, right is ok. Probably the tie rod ends are worthless but the upper/joint part should be ok. $30. Used brake pads of unknown brand plenty of material left. Front might be OEM/Textar? Rear have some blue paint visible on the backing but can't make out the brand, probably something from japan (car was a Jap import). They worked fine. $5 $20. Coolant cap and bleed screw. Pointlessly replaced when hunting a coolant leak that turned out to be due to a loose head bolt $10. Stock upper rear shock mounts. $100. Stock downpipe. Can gut it if you want a cheap catless downpipe. Although the cat still looks perfect so that might be a bit wasteful. Comes with the secondary O2 because I can't get the damn thing off (that may change as iId prefer to keep it) $20. One brand new item. Lemforder outer tire rods. Why do i have these brand new when i have used full tie rod assemblies? Because I'm a dumbass who ordered these online to save money, not realising they didn't come with the end link that I actually needed. And in NZ the tie rod ends weren't available locally. If any of my prices are higher than they should be and you want it, make an offer. I'm moving to Christchurch in August and would rather not take this stuff with, will consider giving the used suspension bits away for free if nobody wants to buy them.
  6. MHD is easier than JB4, as there's no hardware to install. Honestly it's pretty hard to screw up, just as long as you choose a suitable map for your car's fuel and upgrades. It makes the ECU flashing process dead simple. Plug in your phone, choose a map, install - let it do it's thing for a couple minutes, and then when it's done you're good to go. I'd say it's safer, as it works by modifying the ECU software so the ECU is still in control.Rather than a piggyback that works by trying to fool the ECU by feeding it altered readings from sensors. I have had my car running MHD tunes for years.
  7. Indeed. Went from F1 AS2 to PS4. The PS4 has noticeably more grip in the dry, while the AS2 has better grip and control in the rain. Not a huge difference, I've noticed this just from testing the limits and having fun pushing the car in quiet places. In regular driving I never hit the limits with either tyre, rain or dry. In NZ, that just about puts them in a tie IMO. The difference either way is small though, so you can't really go wrong either way. You can't escape having to deal with both conditions here, so neither tyre really wins out overall. PS4S would offer even more grip in the dry, possibly sacrificing wet performance slightly more. For a weekend car where you want maximum grip for fun times, it may be worth going for this one. But for a daily... I wouldn't spend extra for it, it'll be a waste having it wear out on slow boring commutes
  8. "*SURELY A HEAD-TURNER*" Well... he's not wrong 😂 🤮
  9. Apex are excellent at knowing what fitments work for what model, even when coilovers are involved, suggest you contact them and ask.
  10. You can either import them yourself (use a freight forwarded like kiwishipping), or Speedfactor in Tauranga - I bought mine through them for about the same as it would cost to import them myself, with less effort.
  11. Linear throttle is a pretty huge difference from the stock maps. At least on the N55, the MHD maps have tweaked the standard throttle response a bit so it's not as sharp as stock. In earlier versions of the maps before they did that it was pretty twitchy. I don't think the same guy does the N54 maps so perhaps he hasn't done the same. Stock map - 50% pedal movement is 90% throttle. When you're used to that, linear feels pretty awkward. I find in regular driving in D mode, it throws me off and I struggle to adjust to the extra pedal input required to make it downshift for an overtake and find I'm crawling in a high gear, then I might overcompensate and it kicks down hard. I should probably get in the habit of downshifting first. It makes it feel sluggish in normal driving and I don't know if it's because it messes up the shift points or I'm not naturally hitting the gas hard enough to hit the shiftpoints. Maybe it's also because D mode on the DCT isn't great, feels like it's tuned for grandpa drivers. Manual mode on the other hand, it's great, nicer throttle modulation when driving spiritedly. I've actually been on the standard pedal map for a while but the last map update sharpened the throttle response, so maybe I'll give linear another shot. With the extra responsiveness I might adjust to it better this time.
  12. Oh man, that... err... looks very ricey, that spoiler looks like garbage. And fake M3 vents... lame. Then I saw the the gearstick... WTF is that! LOL.
  13. One thing you should know with BMW (and other Euro brands), the local part prices are mostly a rip-off. You can get them cheaper by buying online from overseas. fcpeuro.com is a good one i use often, their shipping costs are among the lowest and parts generally arrive within a week. That's assuming you were looking at local prices. Also have a look on Trademe for E90 parts, there are always ones being parted out, you could find that part dirt cheap that way.
  14. Hi,

    i have bought a 2010 335i and wanted to do performance exhaust mod, do you remember how much it cost at new Lynn pit stop.

    Thanks

     

  15. Hmm I'd say that's either catless or something is done to the exhaust, if you can't see any signs of the PE mod. That doesn't sound like a PE mod/exhaust to me so I'd lean towards it being catless. "So on MHD the option is OEM/Catted DPs, and I have always had it checked. Did you mean that I should uncheck it and see what happens?" With it checked it should still trigger the codes just like with stock. You should have a check engine light and some fault code(s) about emissions. If you're not getting this then... your cats are still there and working. Also when you checked the Oxygen Sensor and Oxygen Sensor Heater, was it only after flashing a tune? Flashing a map resets them, you need to drive for a while, maybe about 30 mins, before they'll show the status. Edit: One more.. are the cars you've been comparing against sedans? The sedans actually have an extra resonator in the exhaust that makes it quieter than the coupe. https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=123467
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