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Herbmiester

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Everything posted by Herbmiester

  1. Yes that or a cheap M Factory diff would be my first choice.
  2. Do you know what the breakawy value is? I think he mentioned 25% lockup but I coudnt see the breakaway value.
  3. I read a bit about the phantom grip LSD a few years back and while this is certainly similar the friction plates and ground down spider gears would seem to offer much greater bearing surface.
  4. Hmmm could you run 235 40 17's on them ok?
  5. I have watched this a few times now but not sure what I think yet. The video was on a 188mm diff and I have a 210mm in my 2007 335i so possibly more surface area for the friction disks. Any way have a watch and lets discuss. BTW he does a review in a later video and its pretty positive.
  6. MHD is easy to use follow the instructions and use an appropriate battery charger and you are all set. JB4 is just not necessary, its a lot of money spent for what a flash tune will achieve. MHD are well advanced in thier map design so you get proven safe maps plus you get other nice features like data logging, throttle maps and torque by gear. Map swapping is something people say the want but rarely ever use. That said once you have MHD installed map changes are pretty quick. However before you tune do the following. New plugs, new intercooler, walnut clean if kms are pasy 70k and for peace of mind a new charge pipe.
  7. You should try MHD first.
  8. Nice to see such an honest description, GLWS.
  9. Nice car. I think you should save your money with the JB4 and just use MHD.
  10. These might work offset looks right. https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/wheels-tyres/alloy-wheels/listing-2209222562.htm?rsqid=1f090e83f4714287ad3fde5dd24401b0-003 or these https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/wheels-tyres/alloy-wheels/listing-2204574110.htm?rsqid=1f090e83f4714287ad3fde5dd24401b0-003 if you want 19's personally I think 18 is the sweet spot, but for track use 19's may be better.
  11. You would likely get away with the stock intercooler in these temperatures with 100 octane. However it will get warmer and you will need to do it at some stage. A test done in winter in California (so not really cold) with a good aftermarket intercooler was the difference between the DME pulling timing on MHD tunes vs not. From memory on a stock car the intercooler swap alone was worth around 20HP and the temp difference was quite noticeable at around 30 degrees c. The end tank design on the stock unit also has an effect on pressure drop and flow. I will see if I can find the test as it was pretty comprehensive. All that said an intercooler swap is pretty easy and not hugely expensive, if you look at the size of the stock BMW cooler its pretty small for a 3l engine. On my car the new cooler was noticeable with better throttle response and more up top.
  12. Here's what you want. https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-control-arm-kit-5-piece-m-upgrade-bmwmcakit You dont need aftermarket wheels just good rubber on the stock rims plus the M3 front end. Understeer is reduced and you can then focus on getting the power to the ground, that's the BIGGEST challenge.
  13. Why not stay with a standard setup and invest the cash in the best tyres you can afford? Then front arms and LSD. After all my research that's probably where I will end up. I do have a 9 inch wide rear so could fit a 265.
  14. Well the 100kg saving between the two is probably the biggest advantage. The Brakes however are a bit of a toss up as the piston count is up but the rotor diameter is down. For the size of the car the e92 isn't really overweight just not lightweight.
  15. I have dried it out with sun and hair dryer and now tying vacuum.
  16. That's exactly what I am removing , black compost.
  17. So with that setup you will be close to 600nm of Torque, a damp road will see you lose traction at 100kph with a big stab at the loud pedal. It looks like you have convinced yourself to go for the small rear setup based on info that is not applicable to e92/90 n54 cars. All the BMW advice I ever read about square setups is aimed at low to mid power cars not torque monsters. Good luck with that but I guarantee it will not deliver what it is you want. The stock E92 does under steer a wee bit but good tyres help immensely. What really helps reduce under steer is the M3 front control arm setup as it gives you more camber and much stiffer bushes. Its not hugely expensive and install is straight forward.What you can do without any guard rolling is fit the M3 spec setup 235 265 tyres. I have had my 335i for over 3 years now and I have experimented with a few setups including a 245 front and 245 rear setup off my old e46 and it made no noticeable difference apart from having less rear grip and more flashing dash lights. The inherent issues with E92/90 handling are huge amounts of torque from low down with no LSD and a front end geometry that is not quite aggressive enough. The E90/92 platform is actually a power over steer monster that is held in check by electronics. In 4 odd years of trolling through internet articles on getting the e92/90 to handle none have ever tried going smaller at the rear, it just defies logic. I have driven an E92 with a torsen LSD it had stock M sport suspension and very good tyres. All I can say is that is where my money is going next.
  18. Ok I think I found the problem or at least one of the problems. The cowling scuttle was full of decomposed leaves and dirt. Its a complete bitch of a job to fix as there is just no room to work.
  19. Seriously there is a proven way to make any E90/E92 handle like a an M3. Fit an LSD and program out the E Diff settings then fit M3 front (rears if you have the money) control arms. You can fit stiffer springs but if you already Have M-sport springs you will be pretty good as the rears especially are already quite stiff. Do this, fit decent tyres and all you will have to worry about on track days are overwhelming stock brake pads (easy fix) and an extra oil cooler to stop it going into limp mode when it gets too hot. However if all you want is pretty wheels and a reason to justify small wheels then ignore this.
  20. Seriously I cant see how a 235 is anywhere near enough tyre for a 335i, sure stick with 17's but at least look for a 8.5 or 9 inch wide wheel so you can fit standard 255s or 265's back there. The money you will pay for a soft tyre that has grip will be more than a good 17 inch 255. BMW never ran a square setup on any of the high HP e90's and this was for good reason it will turn into a pig. If you leave the electronics on all that will happen is your dash will light up and you will go nowhere, if you turn the stability control off you will go sideways or become a one tyre fryer. if you give it a tune and lets be honest the 335i is just so easy to get extra HP and torque from, it gets even worse. Leave your current setup on and buy and LSD, then you will see why the e90M3 handles so well.
  21. As a 335i owner I would ask why you want to give up rear tyre contact with a smaller tyre wen you already have a car that that is traction limited. I am exploring how i can go from 255 to 265 or even 275 width at the rear. However I am not sure how much you like going sideways or making tyre smoke.
  22. So the floors on my E36 coupe are wet, quite wet. The car has a sunroof is that the likely culprit? What else do I need to check?
  23. I have located an m54 rotating assembly in CCH but the seller wont ship. Anyone down that way able to pick it up and hold it for me until I work out how to get it to Wellington?
  24. If you lower it to the point where the top of the tyres are at or fractionally below the guard (back wheels) you will have a small amount of visible camber. Nothing excessive and nothing to worry about. Eibach springs and matching shocks Koni, Bilstein and bushing upgrades will give you a good firm ride. I had a full Ohlins road and track setup on my E46 along with bigger anti roll bars and new bushes. This setup was superb in every respect but Ohlins are pricey.
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