Matich

I'm just gonna send it

Recently rebuilt bottom end with new bearings/rings/honed bores etc, checked clearances and assembled with assembly lube. I've noticed that it's much harder to turn the engine over in comparison to what it was prior to the rebuild (just the block). Is this due to the new rings creating friction with the honed bores? is it normal for this friction to go away after the initial break in period?

Some cheaper end Heavy Duty BlackRidge one from supercheap, I thought the 510nm would have been more than enough but I guessed wrong!

Sounds like I need to go purchase a breaker bar, shouldn't have wasted monies on an impact ?

It does 510NM which should be enough to break it loose, I have a feeling it's seized.

Engine is fully stripped down apart from the block/rotating assembly, I purchased a 1/2" air impact for the crank bolt only to find it wouldn't loosen the bolt. From researching around it looks as if it is a normal thread and not reverse, i'm not sure if this changed from car to car, mine is a 1992 325i e36. Does anyone have any tips to remove this bolt? I've seen people remove with electric impacts so thought an air powered one would be fine. Last resort would be to buy a breaker bar.

I was thinking of it being light and zippy for more of an autocross car, something about squeezing power out of small engines is fun

Does anyone know if it's possible to swap a m40b18 into an e46 shell? I know they had m43's which are similar but the m40's lower compression can be better for forced induction.

cheers!

Require a new MAF, I've noticed both the b20 and b25 (non vanos from 1992) have the same hotwire style and use the same amount of pins. Are both parts interchangeable? Could I use a b20 MAF on my b25?

That would be really good if you could! Been trying to find one for awhile now

yup intake manifold was removed for proper inspection of hoses and to clean the ICV with carb cleaner, replaced the clamps on all hoses with new ones

Last owner told me the MAF was toast however after doing some research, many have suggested it could be an O2 sensor failure where the DME (Bosch 402) has no lambda signal causing the car to not go into closed loop properly at idle. The car is running super rich and it can be smelt, I'm guessing that the idle calms down when MAF is unplugged because no reading from the O2 is required if no reading from the MAF is present, therefore running the engine off a set of predefined values. Hope it's as simple as an O2 sensor, a new one or a performance chip is fairly cheap and can disable the sensor. Hotwire maf's however are fairly rare and expensive. Trying to narrow down the answer as I don't want to spend money on a part that wasn't causing the issue, so far fluids, filters, spark plugs, thermostat, and ICV(cleaned) have all been serviced.

Have the pistons been numbered with the crankshaft?

Bump

Between $50-$80 for a second hand one, car's idle keeps oscillating and evens out when I unplug my current one

325i 1992 m50 non vanos, 0986280116, 13621466359, 0280213011, bosch MAF

Part 5 was cut and is venting to atmosphere so maybe it did go there? I thought since the PCV hose (#3/#4) was already going into the intake boot it wouldn't need another tiny hose post throttle body.

Have been refreshing a m50b25 NV and noticed that this hose has been blocked by a previous owner, after hours of searching I couldn't find what it was originally responsible for, any ideas?

Been able to source a donor car for an engine swap however i'm finding it difficult to find answers regarding the EWS 2 system that's in my 97' 318is If the new DME with the m50 (1992) never had EWS and my chassis has EWS 2, will the wiring modification will be needed as the DME never had the feature in the first place? A lot of EWS bypass guides are showing EWS 2 Chassis with EWS 1 motor's etc but nothing about having no EWS at all.

Recently changed my brake rotors as my old ones had a decent lip around them, After changing them out I noticed how much force it took me to spin the wheel while the car was up on jack stands (after pumping the breaks). The pads are constantly rubbing on the rotors and it feels as if the caliper pin doesn't fully retract back after letting off the break pedal. Would the caliper benefit from a rebuild kit or will it most likely stay the same? i'm assuming it's dirt/dust/rust from years of use.

I got some D2's when they were on sale for my e36, no unusual sounds, fit perfectly no complaints. I couldn't justify paying a few hundred more for BC golds when there's little to no difference between the two (some might argue quality? but both BC and D2 are Taiwan made). I use mine as a daily and a odd weekend warrior so far have been more than impressed.

Just installed some D2 coilovers on the car and have been really happy with the end result! It has made the car a lot more fun to drive (esp through the twisties ). It's now time to get a certification and all the places I have contacted have quoted me between $500-600 minimum. Reading through other various NZ car forums I've seen others been quoted for a lot less and would like to know what others on this forum have paid in the past for the same cert, and perhaps what location that was in?

Went to put down my drivers side window for some fresh air and the entire window fell forwards into the door. Turned out that the clips had crumbled apart as well as these regulator arms that went with them. I've replaced the clips but cannot figure out how to get these arms back together, I opened up the passenger door as a reference but this door's regulator arms will just not screw/clip/pop anything into place. are these arms even meant to be reattached? or should I just replace the entire unit itself.

Thanks for the suggestion! Definitely sounds like a modification worth doing, any particular steering ratio I should go for?