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drtimwright last won the day on November 10 2017

drtimwright had the most liked content!

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About drtimwright

  • Rank
    2nd Gear

Previous Fields

  • Name
    Tim Wright
  • Location
    Pinehaven. Upper Hutt
  • Car
    1998 328i cabriolet
  • Car 2
    2009 VW Golf GTI Pirelli
  • Car 3
    Honda CRV
  • Race Car
    I wish!
  • Race Car Number
    I wish!

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Interests
    Bass guitar. Driving car.

Recent Profile Visitors

854 profile views
  1. drtimwright

    E36 rear bump stop replacement

    So, a bit of squeaking suspension alerted me to a worn bump-stop. Just wondering what the process is to replace these is? Currently I'm assuming it's: Jack up the car Find the top of the strut mount (cabby so not much room in the boot) Unbolt it Replace the bump stop Bolt it back in Fix the interior of the boot Put the car down Or, should I unbolt it first then jack up the car? Hmm. SO MANY OPTIONS.
  2. drtimwright

    36 Coolant Level Sensor

    Awesome thanks! I've found one on trademe and am just double checking that it fits
  3. drtimwright

    36 Coolant Level Sensor

    Hey, I think I need a new coolant level sensor - the computer tells me the coolant is low and it is not low. Does anyone know the product code for this - I've got a 1998 328i E36 NZ New - with the expansion tank on the passenger side of the car and built into the radiator. I've attached a photo from under the car looking up. Looks like one of the hoses might need replacing as well. Sigh. Tim
  4. drtimwright

    First euro - Hi From the Wairarapa

    A quick google suggested it might be the battery or the cables connecting the battery. When car is warm the battery has just been charged so is at max charge. http://www.mycarforum.com/topic/2651707-weak-cranking-during-cold-startup/ however the rough idle points to the injectors. This page has some ideas how to check and diagnose that - but if your oil smells like petrol then you need to fix ASAP as leaky injectors can damage your pistons. https://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=65675
  5. drtimwright

    First euro - Hi From the Wairarapa

    Lack of fault code shouldn’t matter. Get a video of the problem so it’s documented. And if they say anything over the phone, email it to them so you have a written record. Dealers can be slimy at times.
  6. drtimwright

    First euro - Hi From the Wairarapa

    Hey - great looking car! For the cold start issue, I would talk to the dealer. It sounds like something that should be covered under the consumer guarentees act. Tim
  7. drtimwright

    New BMW in the South of the North

    Try hyperdrive.co.nz - they have reasonable pricing and it's all online. They ship to a local installer and charge a $12/per tire installation fee. Well it's about $12 anyway. I've found that the chain tire stores (bridgestone, tony's, and beurepairs) seem to make up a price based on what they think they can get away with and I always feel ripped off. Smaller mechanics tend to be a little better (especially the ones on this forum). As an example, one of my friends recently bought a single tire from tony's (I think). He then went to hyperdrive and would have saved $100 on that single tire (same brand etc). On saying that, I think your import will be less expensive than hyperdrive anyway! Tim
  8. drtimwright

    New BMW in the South of the North

    I meant for the NZ comparisons Tim
  9. drtimwright

    New BMW in the South of the North

    Where did you get the quotes from? I have found hyperdrive competitive but never compared with importing myself. Tim
  10. Hey, I have a 1998 BMW convertible. So 20 years old now! It's an E36 chassis (you'll get used to the chassis codes soon enough). https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/BMW_3_Series#Third_generation_(E36;_1990–2000) I've had it 3 years now. With any older car, you'll get the normal things wearing out: suspension bushings, accessory belts, and other stuff. I haven't found those to be overly expensive. The E36, however, is known for cooling system failures. And if that happens, then it's costly to fix. Because your engine might be bung as a result. So try to find out what maintenance has been done on the cooling system: radiator, hoses, thermostat, water pump, etc. And direct your mechanic to throughly check the cooling system in any potential purchase. As for part prices, they haven't been too bad. There seems to be good availability locally and www.fcpeuro.com can deliver to NZ if you want to do a bit of DIY. Oh, and a convertible (or cabby as everyone here says) will always cost you more. Because of the extra moving parts. But they are SOO GOOD. Tim
  11. Hey all, With the great help of @Olaf (I think that's Andy's handle here) I managed to repair my E36 seat. Note that Andy and I found several different mechanisms for flicking the seat forward. There are gas struts, cables and strings, and (in my case) a metal thing that had slipped it's bracket. Here is the metal thing: https://youtu.be/TXxEWQVlhC8 And here is it working: https://youtu.be/TuaurVS7vcY (which includes my thanks to Andy Parkins :)
  12. drtimwright

    New BMW in the South of the North

    Hello - and welcome to the world of BMW ownership! I'm based in the Hutt as well - but my BMW isn't as nice as yours (1998 328i cab) For tires, always do a price check at hyperdrive.co.nz - lots of places will quote you what they think you'll pay. And once you mention it's a BMW they put the prices up. There are a few friendly mechanics who are BMW enthusiasts as well and are engaged in the community so it's good going to them if you can They're probably in this forum as well - so will let them introduce themselves. Hyperdrive will actually deliver to a mechanic of your choosing and charge a set fee for tire installation and balancing. And the AugoGlym lower north island distributor is also on this forum - he's great value (Barry - http://barrysgarage.co.nz/). I think he gives discounts to members of the BMW Car Club - which is pretty cheap to join and has a great facebook group (amongst other things) http://bmwclub.co.nz/ For some reason internet is being odd for me today so cant post any links to sites or reference anyone's names. Anyway, it'd be great to catch up and check out your car! Tim
  13. drtimwright

    E36 Auto Transmission Gasket Replacement

    Glad I could help! Yeah, trying to fill through the drain port would be a nightmare. I kinda wish I'd taken photos when the gasket was off so you could see inside it too. Tim
  14. drtimwright

    E90 2006 ZF transmission fluid

    $20/l does seem quite high. I got 20L for $95 a week ago. It's a different transmission fluid, but the costs shouldn't vary that much. Ask for trade pricing perhaps? I see you're in Sydney so can't give you advice on which stores are better - but often the retail ones (like supercheap and repco) buy from the more mechanical minded ones (like BNT). Tim
  15. drtimwright

    E36 Auto Transmission Gasket Replacement

    In case anyone's interested, I'm half way through the replacement. I found the right gasket, oil filter, and shift selector seal on trademe. They came from Australia. So far I've managed to do the hard bits. Tuesday night: Drain the oil (thick black crud) Remove the oil pan (more thick black crud) Remove the filter (lots of extra yucky oil comes out) Remove the valve cover Remove the shift selector seal Install the new seal Reinstall the valve cover Note that you don't actually have to remove and reinstall the valve cover in order to replace the shift selector seal. You can dig it out from the outside using a screwdriver. Of course, I didn't know this until the (heavy) valve cover was out. Have a shower because I was covered in oil Wednesday night: Torque the valve cover screws to spec Replace the old oil filter & oil pan, torque screws to spec Buy a socket that will fit the oil fill screw (only BNT seemed to have a 17mm hex driver) Fill with oil (damn that was messy) Take for test drive (it was awesome! Much better shifting and power) Check the oil wasn't still leaking (spoiler: it had stopped leaking) Took another shower for the same reasons. 2 weeks later: Remove oil pan and filter again Install new filter Replace oil pan Fill with oil The most surprising thing was how dirty the oil was on the second change. I've got enough oil to change it again, so might do that after a few hundred more kms. But after this change (oil and filter) the car was even more peppy - changing gears even faster than before. Wish I'd done it before the driver training day! Tim