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Funkyflynz

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Posts posted by Funkyflynz


  1. 7 hours ago, M3AN said:

    Replied in the other thread, between the needle bearings and the circlip on the rear of the unit, it's of a size that it can't go elsewhere.

    I replaced mine with a metal one from the S54 but that's not necessary if yours is in good shape.

     

    Thanks, yes it appears to be in good shape, but with everything apart im thinking it would make sense to replace it with a metal one and also do the circlip upgrade as well.  Interesting that the plastic one seems to overlap….

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  2. 7 hours ago, M3AN said:

    Ugh, that brings back memories... all that orange gunk is such a PITA.

    The stop disk goes on top of the needle bearings, between them and the big circlip.

     

    Thanks mate.   Let me take this opportunity to thank you for your contributions to BMW forums, ive come across a lot of your posts on here and the UK forum, its been a huge help.   Much appreciated 🤙🏻🤙🏻

    • Thanks 1

  3. 2 hours ago, Eagle said:

    buckets= brackets?. I fitted a set of Driftec ones to my mates car they gave him a huge amount of toe in, around 10mm iirc

    Seen many high end race cars use these:

    https://www.mk-motorsportteile.de/en/p/bumpsteer-camber-und-rollcentrum-correktion-kit-e36-e46-wtcc

    Im using nerptech offset rtabs. But the amount of toe adjustment you end up with will depend on your camber and how low your car is.   I have 4mm total toe with -1deg camber currently and its very low.  
     

    that kit looks the business, havent seen anything like that before, thanks for the link.  Not sure in will be spending $2k on it but might be able to make something up perhaps.   


  4. Strange, ive had zero issues with my 450+ V8 using the stock E36 medium case driveshaft and diff.  My concern is breakage (drifting on a 265 tyre) but so far its been fine, same driveshaft for over 12 track days with a 4.1:1 ratio gearset and 120-130kph wheel speeds.

    Is your centre hanger bearing ok?

    How about the bushings in the subframe and diff?  

    The front bolt in the meduim case diff is weak and prone to breaking, have you checked that?


  5. Hey all,

    The old touring cars series, BTCC for example had e36's running super low and obviously handling extremely well on track.  

    Im interested to know how they managed to do this, esp in the rear,  im running a low car and the first issue is camber, once you dial this out with adjustable lower arms you run into toe issues, specifically toe out with not enough adjustment left to dial it out, this necessitates offset rtab bushings and in my case modified toe buckets as well.  However you are still limited .

    What i did next was raise the rear subframe - approx 10mm.  this gave me a little more toe adjustment without affecting camber. 

    Next step would be to go true coil over rear with adjustable top arms, this would address any toe/camber issues.  However... (and this is what ive been getting to).....

    Lowering will affect squat, in fact the more you lower the rear the more squat you induce.  This due to the fact the front trailing arm pick up point remains in the same location.   With more squat you get more geometry change thanks to more suspension sweep (under power)

    So how did the touring cars overcome this?   Some secret sauce?  any knowledge out there on reducing squat with a lowered trailing arm rear?

     

    Any help appreciated.

     

     

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  6. After a 2 year hiatus due to family things it was a mad 3 month scramble to get the drift e36 back together with the new gen4 6.0, ecu, wiring, gbox, clutch, exhaust etc etc. Had a few teething issues with the new cam/valve springs and cooling system but managed to get it up and running the day we need to head off for two days of drifting 😰  so loaded up and hoped for the best... and we got it, two days full noise and not a single issue, couldn't believe it lol.

    Now its time to dial in more rear grip (running a 265/35/18) and find a good solution to upgrade the rearend - diff/axles

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    • Like 5

  7. Update -

    After i was unable to get the car running right it sat for a year while i got busy with other projects, however its back on the "to do" list and ive replaced a couple of coils and cleaned the MAF which made a difference, ECU still throwing MAF errors and there's a slight stumble so have ordered a new MAF.

    Also have an error that looks related to back pressure at the o2 sensor, the car still has the original mid section with the cats and at 300km theres a good chance they are clogged, so have a new Super sprint midsection to install.

    The Vano's is a bag of marbles as well, so Ive slowly been collecting parts for a full vanos rebuild and will kick that off shortly.

     

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    • Like 6

  8. On 6/11/2021 at 2:12 PM, Chanderpaul said:

    Did you have any luck with figuring this out ?  I am having similar issues with funny idle and some ECU codes.

    Hi, update for you- TPS didnt change anything, and the car sat for a year neglected (big sad face) but good news, im able to send some more time on it, ive replaced to coils that were faulting and cleaned the MAF, this made a huge difference, theres still a little stumble at times and the MAF is still throwing a fault code.  

    Ive now ordered a new MAF.  Interesting talking to a highly regarded BMW/Targa mechanic explaining what im seeing he said it could be a number of things but that a bad MAF is the most common cause of issues by far.

     

    • Like 1

  9. 2 hours ago, M3AN said:

    Remove and test the throttle position sensor, cleaning mine fixed my erratic idle. As for the flat spots, check for any ECU codes, especially hidden (secondary) codes, you'll need to use INPA or DIS for that, not a consumer code reader.

     

    Thanks, will give that a try.   I need to get on to INPA . Been putting it off as i prefer spanners 😂😂


  10. 52 minutes ago, sweetm3 said:

    Hi Lee

    No it doesn't sound good, have you tried the long screw drive to your ear. This will help pin point the area of the noise.

    Thanks, yes, it sounds like its from the vanos.  Might be the typical vanos rattle but ive not heard it before.  Have a vanos rebuild planned and part ls on the way.  But a rattle should t be causing these flat spots. 


  11. 2 hours ago, topnotchrally said:

    Old guy here... how about.umm, driving the thing for a while before making more mods?  Just a thought.

    Well I like to drive hard and have zero interest in driving a subpar badly neglected M3.  If i could do the mods tomorrow i would but i cant so it will be driving the thing for a while before making em lol
     


  12. 32 minutes ago, M3AN said:

    I've just jumped from a 3.23 to 3.64 in my Evo and the difference makes up for everything the S54 gives you, it's quite the experience.

    And I assume you have these guys on your radar if you want cams: http://www.catcams.com/welcome.aspx - their shitty site tech prevents deep links but just look up the (Euro) S50B32, they have numerous options.

     

    Good to hear thanks, i had a long yarn with Kayne and was leaning towards 4.1.  Im not planning family holidays away in it so for the odd weekend away happy to hear it sing.  Running 17’s with 255/45

    Catcams certainly seem to be a good option, the big decision will be what size, going big means shims under bucket which people seem to shy away from due to the additional work for shimming.  Have you looked into sizing?


  13. Hey team,  have a weird issue.

    when idling... When idling the rpm will jump from 1200 (cold) down to 500, the car sounds like its labouring for a while (10-30sec) then jump back up to 1200.  When hot it will drop down to 400.  

    When driving...whilst driving the car hits flat spots randomly, it doesnt cough or splutter rather it just becomes unresponsive like there nothing there.  Engine tone changes.  
     

    Poking around i seem to have some noise coming from the vanos, not sure if this is normal or signs of an issue?  Related or not?

     

    Any thoughts/advice would be appreciated. 


  14. Finally back on the ground after replacing the fuel system, many thanks to @Toast for a set of blue top injectors,  much appreciated.   Also threw in a new set of plugs, 3 new coils and oil/filter change.  Put some fresher rubber on a spare set of ds2 wheels and uploaded them.
     

    With that all done i was able to actually drive the car to get a feel for it.   
     

    verdict?  It has potential 😂.   Immediately the factory diff ratio felt far too tall for me, the drivers seat is offset, the steering wheel far to big and it lacked the response of the s54, which i expected but thought it would still impress me on the top end.  Shame.
     

    So whats next?   
     

    First i need my motorsport license then we go for a wof.  Ive spied a couple of oil leaks (oil cooler and ps hp line) which i need to tackle, i have a purple tag rack to go in (original was worn and thus replaced) and i need to sort this seat and steering wheel situation.  
     

    Looking forward to getting this car performing how i want it to.  Kayne Barry made a good start and it deserves to have some more love.  If anyone has some cams for an S50b32 they arent using let me know 😅

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    • Like 3
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