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3pedals last won the day on March 29

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About 3pedals

  • Rank
    7th Gear
  • Birthday 10/28/1956

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  • Location
  • Car
    E36 328 5 Speed Manual
  • Mods List
    Selection of genuine M-Sport and M 3 bits
  • Car 2
    E53 X5 3.0D 6 Manual
  • Car 3
    BMW R1100 S

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  • Interests
    Yachting, tramping, surfing, classical music , hifi and lots more.

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  1. Supposedly landing the hot ones in May and the 2 litre 210 kW cooking variety a month later, not sure that I can buy an Alfa with a yank donk in it though especially since its only single cam. Reports suggest handling is superior to latest two generations of 3 series but at $74,000 starting price you would want it to be?
  2. Nathan, The benefits of tubular v.s solid sway bars are well defined/ known , additional to these the way I construct the bars gives them a more progressive spring rate which means the bar starts off having about a 20% increase over the stock spring rate and quickly increases to as much a 60% over stock . The two I have done for the Saab have some of the benefits of a tubular bar but mainly benefit from the higher and progressive spring rate.- what does it feel like ? - On small undulations and gentle cornering the bar action is moderate so there is very little roll bar induced understeer, then as you load it up more with tighter , harder, faster cornering it builds quite quickly and body roll is well controlled. What you feel is a more natural progression compared to say a stiff front bar which gives initial understeer/ sledging because it is causing too much outside wheel loading too early. William .
  3. I've had an E39 and the chassis is nice - clocked up nearly 180,000km in it. The particular vehicle was a manual 528 with staggered wheels, koni shocks, aftermarket real springs , uprated sway bars and a sports exhaust including equal length headers. I didn't want performance/ dynamic car just a safe one and the auto compromise works well with the better efficiency of front wheel drive. Mods to the Saab, just make it a good and safe Saab - the aero sports version runs a 16mm rear bar and a 19 front - aftermarket they go to 20 and 25mm respectively I've landed about half way in between but a long way up from the standard 13 rear and 17 front.
  4. Sorry no "How - to" on this one it is a fairly complex bit of engineering to calculate behaviour and then the processes are still evolving. Next challenge is a complete hollow carbon adjustable / variable rate bar for the 328 - whole bar should be less than 1.5kg. - current shape is an aerofoil to reduce under car drag and create downward lift
  5. Definitely needs to be off the car to be able to do the biz - the Saab was equally a drama , had to drop the sub frame out to get the bar out. This one was a light bake only to maintain more matrix 'stretch', then finished with an abrasion resistant sheathing they use in aerospace stuff. Carbon section is also slow rate progressive which combined with stretch should allow low speed wheel articulation whilst still being snappy in direction changes.
  6. Had the opportunity to whip the front sway bar out of the Saab now known as Marie-Antoinette and cook up this little piece of carbon & sticky stuff- new bar about 40% stiffer than donor bar . Put a bit more effort into detailing this one and colour coded it to match Koni struts
  7. Totally agree but how many people actually know what to torque their wheel nuts up to and what torque they should do them to; half the tyre shops are guessing. P.S 235/40's would have been nice on those 8 inch rims but they are as rare as hens testicles.
  8. I would speculate not - but I have no experience of them - its more the uprated ones which have increased "control" dynamics as offered in the GTB and the HD version B6's I have in my X5 . For E28 ones you might talk to Russell at stocks to see if he can build a pair/ set that's what I will do for the X5
  9. Say what ?? The engine specs and the on road specs clearly identify the commie with the lardy wheezing 2 valve V8 is a dog with a dog of an engine and that's just in a straight line and it guzzles more fuel to come second in a two horse race - no more fake opinions please.
  10. Don't know what flavour of Bilsteins were in my Subaru GTB ( OE for the car) but they were similar but not quite as harsh. At speed on an undulating road they quickly over heated and started fading and after about 10,000km became quite sticky. I had them rebuilt 3 times in the 18 months I owned the car. My view on road car shocks is it is very hard to go past Koni sport adjustable shocks - If there is one adjustment a shock needs to match it to a spring it is rebound control. I've had 4 sets of Konis in Alfas, Subarus, and BMW's and they have always set up really well - the current ones in my 328 went in at 29,000km have been re-built at 120,000km and 220,000km - now at 265,000km - I've had two sets of Bilsteins specific fit to the car and found then "Underwhelming" as pointed out in previous post and above.
  11. A less scientific version of what I said earlier , if you read the other reply in the same thread that has fidgety - it says "harsh" The high compression damping and sticky nature of Bilsteins means all little imperfections (coarse chip, laps, edges , tram lines etc.) don't open the valving so the shocks are like rocks. However if you go into a hollow, dip or decent bump the shock valving opens up and the suspension moves. So the ride is harsh / choppy / fidgety on small sh*t and goes soft -ish on big stuff and the car "plunges and then snaps back because of inadequate rebound control. This is the opposite to Koni and Ohlins which allow movement to iron out the little sh*t but firm up when you start pumping big oil cornering or on undulations etc. Not such an issue on the front but really annoying on the rear because the compression stiffness dominates the spring rate - to the point where my next task on the X5 is to ditch the rear Bilsteins and fit custom built Konis. I am over the shitty ride of the B6's ( and I like my cars FIRM)
  12. Hopefully that gets you back to being able to get boost early on-
  13. I agree and this would be true if we agree the current "operating condition" is correct - given the boost doesn't start till 2,500 RPM and the target/ actual relationship is 20 to 30% out right across the log period - I would strongly suggest it is not - It's either limping or something is now busted. Johns' first graph looked normal-ish until the target boost dropped which looked like it was linked to being in a low gear and the system trying to manage the rate of increase for an inevitable gear change (and avoid over boost) John - the diverter can contribute to actual over boost but the issue you appear to have in the start of the latest log is in the target boost- it would do this if it was not seeing the response it expected - i.e. it would signal more boost ( by setting the target higher) - it could be because there is no boost between 1,300 & 2,500 RPM -the question then is what is shutting it down? . - limp or fault? Once triggered the diverter may be slow to re-seat/ seal and this will create the condition you are referring to, but this would show up after full boost is attained. And if we are to believe the actual boost data of the latest log you didn't come anywhere near target / max boost? So you really need to get back to where the target boost is coming on at 1200 -1300 RPM builds rapidly and then plateaus as designed and do a run when the car is in that condition- it would be very useful to have the 'logged' actual boost tested against a gauge.
  14. Some of the restrictions come from Cross border sales agreements that is: the vendor is bound by the supplier only to sell into the U.S market and cannot sell out of the home market - controls on this are the billing address and the source of funds. So it can be "product" dependant. Last time I used the Mainfreight location as billing address and paid by Visa - no issues
  15. Quick assessment: No target boost before 2,500 RPM , actual still showing .7 bar negative, Overshoot on target boost - sluggish actual boost response at 2,500 to 4,500 RPM, Actual vs target running at between 65% & 75%, Target boost drops off past 5,400 RPM as does actual. What would you expect: No target boost till about 1250 - 1350 RPM - actual at '0" , Rapid climb in target boost followed by similar climb of actual, Plateaux from 2,500 RPM to some where north of 5,500 RPM then easing maybe. So what have we learn't ? - I'd guess it's operating in limp mode as per the second original graph you posted, so different operating environment but nothing learnt.