leightonf

Bump, now free to a good home

Edited

Full disclosure; the cam is cooked but still runs and drives perfect (albeit ticky and missing about 1mm of lift). Compression is fine, doesn’t use oil. Probably a good base for a series motor? Will not come with sump or mounting arms but manifolds etc are available. Can organise delivery in/around AKL $0 or highest offer takes it Contact 02102653334

Hi all, I’m after a power steering pump & pulley off an M42. Like this: https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=CG52-EUR-04-1994-E36-BMW-318ti&diagId=32_0889 Thanks, Leighton

Hi, Im after a rear demister switch (facelift if it makes a difference) and another switch (demister/hazard/whatever) to rewire for an aerial switch Also after a window washer pump And a boot seal (again FL sedan if it makes a difference) If you have any of this could you please pm or text 02102653334 Thanks, Leighton

As above, M44 exhaust for M42 swap M40 lower sump, will consider cracked or damaged with pics

What if I keep the pedal and just change the pedal box..? LTNZVVTA is getting a bit out of control, luckily my WoF guy is a reasonable human being so a cert can just be filed in my 5-year plan or sooner if it becomes an issue

Other way around it seems, cert isn’t required so long as it’s an unmodified factory gearbox crossmember and driveshaft. So borderline for using an E36 box with the spacer. Seems silly that it’s the extra valves/cam that tips it over the edge but that commodore example makes it pretty clear. Im sure it won’t be a problem until it is, then I’ll worry about it ?

You go for it mate, I haven’t decided what I’m doing for coils yet. But if I do CoP then I’ll do something like the welded bosses @aja540i has done, that looks classy. I’d be keen to see it with the coils on and to know whether you had to modify the #1, or is that an E36 problem? Also yes, if you can believe it I got the E30 318iS loom and computer basically for free with my manual conversion (which was definitely not free) out of the states. They only got the M42 there I believe so it’s equivalent to what a M40 loom would be worth here. Do you really need a cert for what is effectively a factory repower? It’s not like an E30 never came with M42 motors from factory. And standard I doubt it’d hit the threshold for power increases.. Thanks for the info mate, I should have re-read your build/guide before replying because it’s all there. Feels like keeping the DISA is the right way to go and just figure out a nice way to adapt the C101. Was there a reason for using the E36 starter, alternator and power steering? Are they different mounting from M40 stuff or just newer?

Thanks for the info, I do remember reading your build a while ago. Doesnt the late E36 have some sort of built in immobiliser or fancyness with the keys? Also interesting that the ECU is involved in the disa system, with the age of it I was assuming it was just some vacuum controlled flappy arrangement.. Do you know any more detail on how it’s sensed/controlled? Also also where did you get your exh manifold? eBay? Surely if exhaust is out there then intake stuff should be too

Awesome, I’ll see what’s easier to find out either M44 or E30is ITB is so tempting! Should probably get the swap done first though.. Any pics/build thread?

Not sure this belongs in “performance” as it seems like ditching the M40 is general maintenance at this point; Looking for some first hand experience putting a M42 into and ex-M40 equipped E30, hopefully someone can help with the following.. 1. Does donor car make any difference since I’m using an E30 318is loom and ECU? Things like sensor locations, updated engine revisions, better spec’d models? 2. Is it possible to use the E36 intake manifold (ie, does it physically fit. Not bothered about which is better out of E30/E36 for performance) 3. Options for exhaust manifolds? Obviously E30 318is but that’s $$, I’ve read M44 potentially works with our RHD models? My goal is a cheap & cheerful repower for a daily driver, not looking for performance so please please keep the “pUt A SiX iN it” and turbo comments to a minimum ?

It was cheaper than the other option (buy a manual 318 in NZ for 6-7k), all up including buying the car I’m at about half that! Plus it’s coming with a 318is harness and computer so win win. E30 stuff seems to be reasonably priced over there and I found a container with some free space coming from the next state over. I guess if you don’t mind waiting a month you can save some money

Thanks for the reply, I did try all the local suspects but ended up ordering from the states. M42 E30s aplenty over there!

Bump, nothing at all out there? Any advice on places/ people I could follow up with would also be appreciated

Hi, Im after everything required for an m40 manual swap: Pedal box Clutch master, slave and line Flywheel Gearbox and manual crossmember and prop shaft Would prefer to buy as a bulk lot, but any pieces considered

Updated trademe link, still for sale. $150 for members if sold outside of tm

Style 95 pair only, no tyres $200 Pick up Flatbush, Auckland. Can arrange to meet part way Contact Leighton 021 0265 3334 Also on trademe http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=1117948989

Hi all, After a pair of front seats for E30 sedan (do not need to be the tippy forward coupe type) Bottoms must be in good condition, no tears or bad stains. Not too bothered about the condition of the back or headrests as I can mix and match off the current seats. The cloth pattern is the common grey herringbone type Let me know what you've got, Leighton 02102653334

Thanks for the reply, I have power at the fuse now, and the mirrors are working. But still no blower Following the sequence from that (amazingly helpful) article, it goes K7-Fuse 20-Switch-Resistor-Motor. So since I have no 4th speed and I know the blower works it must be wiring between the fuse and the resistor pack somewhere, or the switch itself. I guess I'll try jumping the switch at the connector in the HVAC panel, then if that doesn't work maybe replacing the resistor pack and/or blower just as a matter of course. Edit: Scratch the question below, the fan should work even if the switches/lights don't [is anyone good enough at wiring diagrams to tell me the significance of no A/C or recirc light in relation to how far the power is geeting?] Will report back to add to the saga that is E30 heaters..

Hi all, I'm trying to get the blower going in my FL 318i with A/C, which was going fine then all of a sudden stopped one day. Done plenty of research and have pulled and tested everything: switch, resistor pack and blower motor. They all seem in good working order, but the fan is still a no-go when trying to control it from the switch. There is no power at the fuse, which makes me wonder if there is a wiring issue between the battery and the fuse box (the power mirrors don't have power either). Does this sound plausible? My other question is, how do the high/low speed unloader relays work? From what I can figure they only kill the power when cranking, so shouldn't be an issue unless they are stuck open, constantly routing power away from the fuse, correct? Thanks in advance for any help, Leighton

sorted now, thanks for the help checked battery, it had 10.4 across the terminals, and 10.4 at the fat wire into the starter tried another battery from the other car and started up no problems thanks again leighton

There is 0.14V at the starter (thin black/yellow wire) with the key to "on", I'm guessing this should be 12V? And checked while key is "on" not while it should be cranking? Everything else turns on, dash lights etc and they dip when the key is turned to crank, which would point towards starter getting power but not working maybe?

Only the one on the rocker cover, and that's back on

Hi all, I just replaced the head gasket on my '86 E30, following the Haynes manual word for word. Now with everything back together I have turned the motor through a few full cycles and verified the timing marks are the same as they were when disassembling (have not re-timed, cabletied chain on sprocket and then cabletied up to keep tension on when disassembling), but when trying to start with the key there is no luck. The fuel pump will prime, but the starter wont go, no relay click or anything. Obviously battery is charged etc Any suggestions for where/how to start trouble shooting would be greatly appreciated Thanks, Leighton