Eagle

Looks awful

Id say you would you will when you do the fronts but many variables at play. I did the rears (new) before the fronts(used) on my friends E36 recently which had done about 110,000km and he couldnt tell the difference on both occasions, some people dont really know, feel or just get used to it i think. Yeah Lemforder stuff made everywhere these days, Turkey is another common place. Their made in Germany these days seems to be from older stock of parts that are less common to replaced\go bad eg Spherical bushing\bearings.

Worst case you can try this procedure i came across at some point. I may try it on mine if i get bored one day. https://www.e46fanatics.com/threads/ultimate-engine-flush-process-part-1.1285390/ https://www.e46fanatics.com/threads/ultimate-way-to-clean-the-engine-part-2-combustion-chamber.1285432/

Not BMW's but i still get paranoid about this happening on other brands even though ive never had an issue yet. Complete agree about the rest though, not many people removing the head for preventative reasons.

Probably the same situation with other BMW's around the time period eg E46, E90, E60 etc. Just looks out of place to me on more modern stuff.

The E36 was the last proper DIY friendly diff BMW made, sh*t design followed by sh*t bearings from then on out. I think Kane Barrie rebuilds them with taper roller bearings instead those cost cutted ball bearings which are generally only good for 100,000km. You gotta be able to suck out and drain the oil at regular intervals also to keep them going once rebuilt.

I don't keep track of E60 sales but given the maintenance performed and condition it seems very good buying at ~6k. I dont think ive seen an E60 for sale that appear to say 'only spent the bare minimum on it'.

Understandable. I think much of that doesn't necessarily need to be done but certainly an added risk when removing and re-torqueing the head. Id say its quite rare at this point in time to have a non rebuilt M54 that doesn't use any. I though my current M54 used none or very little under typical driving, but like my previous one it soon changed under high vacuum\declaration expressway driving. If didnt have to top oil between ~10,000km changes then id consider that a non issue, but you don't really know until you start putting some milage in my experience.

Surprised you didnt put in updated oil control rings after tearing it down to that extent

Majority of it is just a revenue gathering exercise under the guise of safety.

Given the rate at which these fail a second hand one is a big gamble. Kits are probably around, not sure what type of diff your car used but places like https://www.difflab.com.au/ sell various ones. Obviously you need varying amount of tools and skill to replace them yourself. Kane Barrie is the guy to talk to, he rebuilds a lot of them. https://www.facebook.com/p/Kayne-Barrie-Motorsport-Ltd-100063718410238/

NZ BMW club. More of a family picnic type meet up rather than a drive by the looks for it.

What a c**t. If that happened to me id be going to court with my dash cam footage. R7 international with Mithheru firmware is probably the best performance and features vs price atm.

Yeah via the site

Looks like generic unit, no real specs etc, probably very slow. Xtrons, AVIN or Eonon are the typical android options that you buy from overseas. Based on those requirements https://www.bluebus.dev/ could be the better option, far more reliable and simple to install. Not having the factory phone setup or being prewired for it is the only real disadvantage if you want hands free calling.

I found it quite satisfying when i dismantled my E39 from complete car to scrap metal. Only ended up with a small amount of plastic trims pieces for the landfill. Rest of the car going to scrap dealers?

They gravitate towards things that match their waistlines

Yeah they have an aftermarket look for sure

Good colour and spec. Later M42's had a lot the issue sorted from what i read.

Some people couldn't handle alternate view points without crying. Same reason any Off topic discussion tends to gets shut down.

Forums started to die when facebook etc became the new medium. Most of the older members moved onto other things as you tend to do when you age. Forums owners stop being involved and big car meets/cruises were getting harder to pull off for various reasons which accelerated things. Forum is only as good as it's members. This place would actually be dead if not regulars contributing. Lots of lurkers for sure some of which are only after parts or car deals.

5-6 years seems to be the average suggested time to replace and what id call old myself, 2 years\10k ain't old and ive never seen anything that states 2yr\10k results in any noticeable performance loss. Last 2x sets of PS4 had no noticeable less grip than new in the dry or wet when they were at 2-3mm and a couple of years old, only real advantage would be been aquaplaning resistance. Ive seen a test where a worn 2mm tread Michelin beats a cheap tyre in all conditions. Yeah cheap stuff has improved but so has the high end. Unfortunately big wheels are one of those dumb modern trends that you pay for. I likely wouldn't be putting on high end rubber on either if i had to own something with 19\20's, lots mid range options that have been tested so least i have an idea of what going to give me the best price vs performance.

Indeed hence the question. The odds are it was written off because insurance companies and most people can't do this, easier said than done. I would assume a vehicle like this would have been valued by a reputable vehicle valuer, so probably has a more realistic market value rather than an owner inflated one in a buyers markets.

End of the day it a safety issue to me. You dont need grip until you do and its very easy to buy on price with things like tyres. If you had do an evasive brake or maneuver in wet a good tyre is going to give a far better chance and enable stability control systems etc to work the best they can no avoid crashing. As above i bet tyres rarely get blamed for accidents even though they would probably prevent lots of them. I don't see any major manufacturers using any of these inferior brands and they always want to save money.

What do you estimate the cost range would be to repair it for someone with no contacts? Surely this thing wouldn't be worth more than 40k in this current market given its crash repaired status.