Eagle

On 4/7/2024 at 7:03 PM, Karter16 said:

In most welding situations I don't see how it's possible to control corrosion prevention well enough given the application, and then add in welding to thin sheet metal that has been through 20 years of stress cycles and it just doesn't appeal to me

Cavity wax works very well and the internal areas are pretty well sealed. 

On 4/7/2024 at 7:03 PM, Karter16 said:

I've seen several comments from people who bought the early version of the CMP bar, etc. who say they wished that they could use the newer, less visible

Usual case of buying first gen or earlier generation products, later versions are almost always improved upon. Vincebar and CMP were the only hidden options that were available when i was looking.

29 minutes ago, Karter16 said:

Hahahaha yes let's blame the car, definitely not the drivers fault.

Even dumber response in the Q&A.

Q: Car lost control? Or did the driver lose control

A: Both

Is this guy trying to defend someone feelings or something.

9 hours ago, leonf said:

You would think so

Only if cant see or read

Sold

The average car reads around 5km over actual GPS speed in my experience, most of BMW ive owned have as well iirc except my old E30 which read 10-11kph too high. Current cars are both +\- 1km though.

Probably some correction value programmed into the instrument cluster.

New genuine upper spring perches for lowering. P\N - 31336764093

$20

Eibach Pro-kit springs for 330ci sedan and coupe. Near new condition. Can include Febi E90 strut tops for extra if you want additional ~10mm lowering - $300

Meyle HD front control bushings. Near new, removed to fit Z4M bushings - $20

Ah yes Schmiedmann customer 'service', they are great until you have an issue.

4 hours ago, Vass said:

Never raced or beaten on either

Engine bay looked filthy. Wonder if that why no pics no advert?

Sounds like a clutch\flywheel issue to me. Never had any issues like you describe with OE spec parts. Im running OE E36 M3 clutch\flywheel on my E46, its heavier and lower engagement point than stock but its just as smooth and easier to modulate with no CDV or self adjusting pressure plate.

What is the setup you are running?

5 hours ago, Irobin said:

Has anyone ever used Fuchs oils before? Any good? Looking to change my diff oil and it is half the price of the Castrol syntrax 75w90 

They are a good brand, used a few of their products over the years. These diffs are crap anyway so frequency is more important given it meets the spec. Kane Barrie recommended 30 or 40k intervals iirc after he installed new bearings for a customer. 

23 hours ago, gjm said:

In other news - medium case 3.64 LSD: $2300.

Sold my 3 clutch 3.73 LSD for $800 back in the day. Wouldn't surprise me if its twice that price for an open diff. Seen people trying to sell small case auto ratio LSD's for $1500.

Any solvent will work to varying degrees if you give it time to dissolve. I tend to use kerosene or mineral spirts as they are cheap and dont evaporate quickly.

+1 for black. Did the same thing to my monoball rtabs because i hate the pink too, looks factory.

You could try urethane sealant to re-bond them eg Sikaflex, 3M products etc. Not that cheap either but maybe cheaper than the bushings?.

5 hours ago, Cement said:

I wonder if BMW New Zealand would see an opportunity here to pick up the hosting cost (sponsorship) and provide an easy mechanism plus sharp pricing on parts for members ? When asked I got some not shocking prices out of them and was easy enough to deal with. I think they are missing an opportunity in the parts space.

Plenty of nerds here that could do the admin / infra management.

🤔

They already do that to an extent and more with the BMW NZ club. Cant see them ever being affiliated with another club.

I think generally forums aren't popular enough these days to provide a good financial incentive, hence the decline of most of them along with sponsors. I feel like forums these days tend to be used like libraries, you only go there when you need some information and leave. Unless the next generation alpha reinvigorate forum popularity or at least the concept of them, its just un-intelligent social media for the foreseeable future.

Business equivalent of yes men. Local dealer here did the same for my control arm bushings on my W140. I asked if they had the special tool, said they did then proceeding damage one of them when installing one of them because they didnt have the tool.

My Mercedes never tracked properly after after a local tyre shop touched it, even the dealer couldnt get it right after that. 

7 hours ago, Vass said:

Had tried doing some data logging a while ago and noticed the long term fuel trims sitting at 8.5%

Brake booster is another possibility. I heard mine but you could try to smoke test it if you remove the one way valve or make a test hose.

Seems about right to me, its a buyers market at the moment with people spending less on stuff. These cars are common and aren't exactly cheap to run either so you really go to price them to sell.  

Hard to imagine ever seeing one in NZ that would beat this. The wheels, msport kit and alpine white really make it, somehow the head lights look great now haha.  

Struts and shocks sure to be well worn if they are original. Bilstein B4's front and rear from Spareto are $700 shipped. Less than 1k you can replace the entire suspension - subframe bushings, trailing arm bushings, sway bar links & bushings, front control arm bushings and struts\shocks. Very easy to do and makes a big difference.   

Shipping for multiple small\light stuff usually only $20 euro. Arrives quicker than average US parcel too with less stops.

Penrite product selector is a good general go to and is usually fairly accurate. Plenty of aftermarket fluids available for all of that with everyone has their own preferences. I generally use Penrite as they make good products at reasonable prices and are easy to source. 

I bought an online Haynes manual awhile back and it was ok but it they can vary alot in quality. Bentley publishers make good BMW manuals based on official BMW literature, but i dont think they make one for your car. Usually with BMW's you can find enough info on whatever is required without paying though.

Id class those brands in the same tier as Michelin, Dunlop and Falken probably at the bottom for street rubber at least. I find Michelin is a very consistent brand, never the best at everything but do everything to a decent standard whatever the product. Easy to source, heaps of sizes with a easy to follow product names also helps. 

4 hours ago, gjm said:

They manage to feel hard, squidgy, unfeeling and yet blocky, all at the same time

Just another rubbish tyre with a dumb name category, not the worst maybe but its like comparing a dog crap with cow crap. We sell both at work and lots of customers have switched over to Continental UC6's, just regular drivers and most are happy with the extra cost for very noticeable difference. When you got old and worn vehicles the tyres do a lot of work.