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Showing results for tags 'E39'.
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Hi guys. I was driving my e39 530i on the other day and noticed the smell of the engine oil burning and shortly after 5 mins or so the smoke slowing started appearing from the engine and the air vent. Had to get my car towed and checked the engine and found that the typical creamy brown coloured engine oil appeared on the oil cap and valve cover (not a lot just on the top where the oil cap is) and suspected that the head gasket is blown... OMG. So I have decided to replace a new one. But apart from the head gasket is there any other parts I should be replacing since I'm going to take out a lot of parts. Any suggestion would be much appreciated. By the way, before this smoking, I had replaced the valve cover gasket as there were some oil leak from the coil/spark plug which is the closest to the windscreen side. I had some little smoke came out for less than 30 seconds then it was gone and did not appear. However I only turned the engine on and was not actually test driving after the valve cover gasket replacement. The car has done over 249,000km already. Thank you very much in advance team!!! -
Hello. I have a E39 540i with an M62TU that will not crank. Bugger. With INPA I can communicate with the k-line and get info on the keys etc, but not the CAN line to talk to the DME / ECU / engine module - whatever it's called. Also, my Foxwell scanner told me I have no CAN communication. INPA tells me my key is ok but ECU is rejected because of the isn number / password (i.e. the rolling codes), but as I can not talk to the engine module I cannot reset this. (Also - the starter motor is blocked due to it not knowing that the trans is in park or neutral - which I am assuming is the sloe cause of it not cranking, because this info is not getting from the trans module through the DME). I have been using the 20 pin connecter under the bonnet - I downloaded switching software to put my lead into CAN mode - have tried both Mike's and Bimmergeeks INPA download on a windows 10 and 7 machine, tried 2 leads - white and green circuit board, yes have bridged pins 7 and 8, replaced the battery and charged it, checked the fuses (pulled the carpet to check the ones under the seat), checked as many earth straps as I could find ... So, help please. Does anyone have a lead they know works with this vehicle that I can either borrow or buy to eliminate this as being the problem, as I've read they can make a difference. It could be my DME is in fact fried - is there anyone who can bench test these? I'm happy to send the EWS and DME to someone for a check or re-sync and pay for time / skills. The vehicle was apparently running fine (elderly couple so I trust them) until they left the lights on a couple of times in a row and had the vehicle jump started. So either the rolling codes or a fried module would both make sense. Also: On the dash, the PRND lights are all lit up, and the temp gauge pegs to max. Could this be caused by the EWS not releasing the DME? Or not? What does / could it indicate? Any advice on what else to check - I used to work as a mechanic so am happy pulling things off / apart, and can figure out which way up a multi-meter goes, but am pretty lost here and also admit to not being particularly computer savvy. Have learnt a lot about BMW's lately but if anything I have said above makes no sense or shows I don't know what I'm on about please tell me. I live close to Kaitaia - is there anyone familiar with INPA, or any other tools I may need I can bribe to visit me. Basically I look at the car and go 'yeah, I know they don't sell for much and I'm probably wasting my money and time, but man that's a nice looking vehicle and gee it must be nice to drive. Be a shame to throw it away'. Ta. Bruce.
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Picked up a project for cheap that i’ll be building in to a hopefully reliable and presentable daily driver. 2001 Jap Import 530i Touring with 279,000kms What was really appealing is that it’s been fitted with a gen M5 front bumper but the factory xenons have been replaced with halogen headlights. That’s going to be sorted soon. It’s in pretty average condition but the paint and body panels are good which makes this an ideal project for me. The engine is a beaut too. The list of to do’s go something like... -Front Suspension o’haul including msport shocks and 25mm lowering springs -18 Staggered wheels -a slight drop in the rear (factory self leveling suspension) -Fit a business rds radio to get nz stations and fit a bluetooth adapter that integrates with the factory setup -Replace the povo interior with Leather seats and door cards, fit the technical graphite/cubic finisher strips -Fit the correct Msport parts behind and under the front bumper -Cooling system overhaul, fuel filter, mictofilters. Give the paint a polish and wax and a heap of misc bits n pieces to bring it back to its glory.
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WTB E46 / E39 cloth sport seat material for refurbishment if my own seats. Specifically to repair the usual wear spots on the drivers side outer upper and lower seat bolsters. Happy to buy whole seats and strip them if required.
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Hi All, I appear to have a fuel leak in my 2002 M54 530: Passenger side (left) of fuel tank, coming down the tank surface, in vicinity of the 3 pipes. Appears to occur only on an initial cold start, after a long hot run, then stops? Nothing on subsequent hot starts or running, nor daily driving around town etc. I'd start the car from cold, drive 5 mins or so, hop out and there is a strong raw fuel smell with the fuel tank wet with fuel. At a guess perhaps 50-100ml or so seems to escape? Tops of tank where outlet and return pipes, plus wiring looms on each side are dry, and no visible signs of fuel trying to look around from those top two holes accessed under back seat. Fuel tank can be at any level when this occurs. I am about to replace the charcoal filter up in the left rear wheel well just as a course of preventative maintenance. Could it be saturated? and some sort of cold start procedure is pushing fuel out a vent outlet which I think is in the vicinity? No change since changing charcoal canister. I suspect fuel vapor is condensing perhaps in expansion tank and then getting sucked through perhaps a split pipe somewhere. No fuel should be getting into charcoal canister as any fuel or condensate should be draining back into tank, unless that particular pipe is blocked? The vent pipe to engine also has a connection I can't get to without removing it. I may be able to do that relatively easily (without removing tank)... Any ideas welcome... I suspect it's order a swag of new pipes, fuel tank out, and replace everything - since this thing owes me a gabillion $$$ anyway.... Cheers,
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After weeks of postponement caused by work and uni exams, it's finally time to give Jane some well-deserved TLC. After taking inspiration from @Olaf 's excellent documentation of his journey in his E60 - - I have decided to do a similar thing with my E39. Exactly four months ago to the day, I drove out of @str8_6's driveway with my first Bimmer, 136,423kms on the clock, and no regrets since. Over those four months, I have: - Replaced the leaking radiator, expansion tank (which had previously been glued together at some point ?), and the upper coolant hose from the thermostat to the radiator - Fitted a Euro-style license plate surround (couldn't quite justify the $300 for the real deal, maybe one day) - Received two speeding tickets from the same camera (both within the first week of ownership ? ) - cruise control is now used religiously on the motorway - Installed a GROM Bluetooth unit into the stock BMW head unit (with the generous help of @str8_6) - Replaced the wiper blades with a genuine pair from FCP Euro, applied an overdue coat of Rain-X, topped up the washer fluid with genuine BMW concentrate My family has a habit of forming bonds with their cars and keeping them for several decades; a habit which has well and truly passed on to me, hence why Jane has reached 'girlfriend' status. As with all long-term relationships, if you want to keep them, they soon get expensive. Hence, I have a list of future plans for my girl: - In the 6,500kms or so I have done in Jane, I have managed to buckle both drivers side rims . Replacements are needed relatively soon, but I'm unsure of which way I want to go. I love the style 81s that I currently have, so getting a new set of rims isn't really an option. Alternatively, I could either repair the two buckled rims (noting that they aren't severely buckled), or purchase two new style 81s. I'm leaning towards buying two new rims (or maybe just one and using the full-sized spare?), since I'm not totally convinced of the efficacy of rim repairs?? Any advice on this issue would be greatly appreciated. - Following the rim issue, it is time for new tyres. I plan to buy a set of four Pilot Sport 4 tyres to get fitted when I eventually sort out what I'm doing with the rims - The GROM Bluetooth unit has highlighted how pitiful the E39 base audio system is. This certainly isn't a pressing upgrade, but a decent audio system is a must for me in the long-term. Has anyone on here upgraded the speakers in their E39 with success? - Tints. I like the stock look without tints, but we're heading into summer and I'd like to keep the interior looking as sharp as possible. - Suspension. I am at a crossroads when it comes to what to do with my suspension. I have noticed that the driver's side of the car sits noticeably lower than the passenger's. I did some reading online and was met with conflicting theories; some said they were made like that from the factory to balance out the slope of our roads, and others claimed that because of our sloped roads one side will wear quicker than the other. One thing was for certain, I didn't know the answer. After talking to Jon at Auto 38, the driver's side rear spring is quite tired, causing it to sit 30mm lower than the passenger rear. Okay, so that solves one problem: my 17-year-old car with over 140,000kms has tired suspension, I probably could have guessed that. Now, I have a few options, with the cheapest probably being to just replace all four springs with OEM parts. But if I'm going to be keeping Jane for many years, I am considering being slightly more extravagant with my solution. While the ride is superb, the body roll is laughable on a twisty road. Moreover, I could fit another E39 inside the wheel arch gap with the stock set up. I'm thinking a bit of a suspension rehaul. Maybe some H&R springs? But I don't want the ride height to fall dramatically. Looking online, some suggest also fitting new shocks to pair with the springs, such as Bilstein B8s. Again, unsure of the impact this would have on ride comfort? I'm far from making a decision on this issue, and have plenty more research to do, but does anyone have experience with either of these? Ultimately, I'm after something that will improve the handling and reduce the wheel arch gap (but still respectable - no StanceNation here), but also not ruining the supple ride of the E39. Here are a couple of snaps from the BMW Car Club's recent drive to Cape Palliser:
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Finally solved my annoying radio issues in my e39 M5 (I had been down several dead ends with diversity amps etc etc...). The FM radio was crap. Bought a BM54 module to replace the BM53 (which seems to have been replaced once already) out of a 2007 X5. Naturally it has a few more features which is good, but it is great to have a "normal" radio once again....
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Hey folks, I'm looking for an E39 Touring sand beige interior. Specifically from the B-pillar back, but would consider buying a whole car if anyone knows of a Touring being wrecked - especially if it still has its factory xenon headlights.
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Making some space so selling some stock: Style 37 (DS2) 17x7.5 Set $500 Style 66 17x8/9 (Tyres to suit fitting an E36) $450 Style 18 17" Set (Staggered) Widths TBC $300 PM/Reply below for more details if genuinely interested in anything and will slowly list on Trademe as a last resort.
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Well, it's been a while since I last looked at this project, mainly due to other projects, business and getting married. Oh and moving house and travels etc (any excuse really haha) Original build http://bimmersport.co.nz/topic/49495-e39-touring-to-ute-project/ As some of you may know, I recently brought the Ute out of storage where its been for the last 18 months. I spent a few days deciding what direction the project should take and what deadline. I've chosen to go with a recently acquired decent PFL 540 that will be used as the foundation to power the ute, as trying to locate a donor M5 is just becoming near impossible. So for now, the plan is to run a super charged rebuilt M62 with padel shifts. The following still needs to be done, - Complete the Tailgate. - Rear left chassis jack point needs rebuilding - Review of the body work for surface rust, dings, misc things that need doing. - Engine bay clean and detail - A few wiring tidy ups - Engine transplant along with drive shaft, diff etc - Super charger kit for the M62 - Adjustable Suspension - Custom deck cover - Full respray, colour yet to be decided - Certification and re registration. If you or anyone you know is good with a welder, PM for some extra cash work
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I've swapped coils. My plugs are new. No change so far. I plausibly have vacuum leaks, I'm planning to see a man about a smoke machine tomorrow. I've read this could be camshaft position sensors. Any odds on intake, or exhaust side? What else should I be looking at? Google gives too many options, and I am unsure I want to replace all those parts on this car. EDIT: I got way ahead of myself. This code kicks in first thing in the morning on cold mornings. Clear and it goes away every time.
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not long picked up an e39 528i and wanting to ditch the factory alloys. was looking at putting on 18s, but having a hard time finding used sets with 20p offset. seems to be truckloads for 1 and 3 series with varying offsets but not many for 5 series with 20p? following the book it says 20p offset for 18/8 , so my search is based only on that info. can a 24 or 18 offset go also? maybe stay 17s? suggestions welcome! -
Hi all, I'm looking for a couple pieces to replace some worn panels on my E39. Would prefer all panels in Silver so I don't have to deal with repaints. Wtb good condition E39 M Sport Front BUMPER and hood/bonnet. Also wanting an OEM staggered set of Style 65s if anyone wants to let theirs go. Located in Auckland Thanks
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https://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=1622176174 Perhaps the only Silverstone one in the country? Member here?
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Hi everyone, I'm toying with the idea of replacing the shocks on my 2000-Msport 540i at the moment it has the factory Sachs shocks in it. Does anyone have any recommendations/experiences they could share? I'm not looking for any performance gain or drop. Will be keeping the factory M-sport springs. Anyone put the Koni Str-t's in the 540 or KYB's? Or should I just spend the money and go OEM Sachs? Thanks in advance, Adro.
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Hello, Does anyone know this car at all? History etc? https://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=1602693860 Cheers,
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Can anyone advise me if springs & shocks from an E39 six fit any other BMW models? Want to sell them. Thanks in advance for your help.
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https://www.trademe.co.nz/a.aspx?id=1543065904 2001 192KMs $6800 Just looks mint - be hard pushed to find a nicer one I think....
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Now coming up 18 months of ownership (got it at 232k km, now sitting at 244k km) and it's been a great (and somewhat $$) journey. I absolutely love this car and as I've spent far more than it's worth (price of a hobby..), it might be around for some time... although everything has its price... As a short summary of some work...; Interior and exterior trim/seals and underbody shields, centre console compartment and cupholders, watermark and clear coat scratch removal (2000 grit wet sand + 3M 3 step buff & polish process), paintless dent removal, rear bumper paint, VANOS O-rings, DISA (G.A.S kit), new CCV system, thermostat, waterpump, belts, hoses, gaskets, O-rings, fan clutch, fan shroud, wheel refurb, oil pan gasket, valve cover gasket (weeping again damit), spark plugs, washer jets and pipes, fuel cap, radiator cap (1.2 bar) and a fair bit of underbody and wheel arch cleaning. New tyres Falken FK453 all around (rears today..). Also today I had windscreen replaced under insurance for a faulty rain sensor, now got a BMW screen in with the optical bit of the sensor factory glued... Also today headlight adjusters replaced and lens polished (not cheap exercise but cheaper than new lights...). Also informed that top right rear suspension arm is getting tired so a new set is on the way from FCP Euro. AND finally a new radiator from Schmiedmann is sitting in the garage waiting to go in (the original 2002 built one is still in the car - on borrowed time...). Most of the work above been done by myself and YouTube... some exceptions... In the year or so prior to me getting it, it had a front end re-paint (spoiler not original as headlight washer jets are missing - indicates a bit of a biff in a previous life), a radiator expansion tank, OFHG, and trans fluid renewed among a few usual items... Next year I think I'll have to address the paint on roof as a few historic stone chips up there need dealing to... Like all of our cars - it's had a lot thrown at it, but I wouldn't have it any other way...
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https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/bmw/auction-1478396785.htm 1996 E39 528i 177KMs $900 - as is, where is Left sitting in a garage for 2 years Tyres OK but one is flat new battery but won't start and yes - mould on the steering wheel Not cool that it has been left like this, but probably(?) not a lot required to get it ship shape..
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After weeks of successfully ignoring the classified, I finally cracked and messaged @qube about the car. He was extremely patient with my questions, at first general, then specific, and finally random as it became increasingly clear that I was very keen on the car. I had a yarn on the phone with @EUROHO, whose enthusiasm for the car tipped me right over the edge. My father-in-law and I flew up from Vellington last weekend, and Kyu picked us up from the airport. We chatted with him and his dad in a supermarket carpark before shaking hands and promising to treat it right. They were both gentlemen, and it was a pleasure to meet them. We filled up at a motorway services on the southern motorway. I was impressed that when we got home the obc still promised 150km of good times in the tank. We stopped at Good Union in Cambridge on the way - a lovely church that has been converted into a great pub/restaurant. Apart from a leg stretch in Bulls, we knocked the drive out in one from there, and had a great drive, SH32 from Cambridge down to Turangi was a lot of fun.
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Hey folks, Finally got around to taking out my D99 Dynavin from my now dead E39. Not really sure on price, looking around on ebay looks like $700+, so figured I'd start at $500, but open to offers. It's the WinCE variant, maps are somewhat outdated but otherwise I've never had a hiccup! See pictures Item is in Palmerston North, happy to ship and get quotes if required. Thanks! EDIT: Christ I'm terrible at taking photos. Oh well, the joy of seeing my overweight self comes free of charge.
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Just looking to see if any other 540i motorsports are out there for sale other than the TradeMe ones, looking for good condition low to med klms, with service history
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The led bar in my Hella facelift taillight has gone phut. Anyone have a good spare? May end buying new if anyone know a good vendor. Prices are a bit scary......
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