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Found 81 results

  1. Hey Everyone, As some people know i have started doing an e28 turbo project (running gt42), i have run into some serious problem with space on exhaust manifold side due to size of turbo 1. Engine mount gets in way of manifold i had designed (turbo was going to be side mounted on right hand side in battery box area otherwise hits the hood if top mounted) Anyway this is a question about modifying the chassis to make it all fit easier or i have to do some serious thinking on how to do it. Question: Pic 1 - Would i get away with cutting this out and re-boxing (which would give a lot of extra space and figure if done right would be just as strong) or is this to much in the way of modifications that it would have to be re-certified or done by a professional (which i don't have cash to do) Any ideas are welcome but the e28 chassis has no space compared to other models
  2. Story: So i purchased my 2nd E28 around 10 years ago now and had the plan to turbo the car but life got in the way and i had to move oversea's for last 6/7 years...So it sat in the garage next to my alfa 33 (w 1.7ltr sud engine) Now im back in NZ i have decided that i am going to dedicate myself to doing up the e28 over the next year or so then possibly sell the car but who knows (sure ill make a loss). I am trying to do as much myself, and on the cheapish Current: M30b35 from E32 (Stock) 5 Speed Manual Transmission Crap ratio rear diff ( ex auto car so great for burnouts in 1st . 2nd) Biggest stock bmw brakes i could fit under 15" rims (believe 735i & 540) Stock Suspension Exhaust - 2" twin pipe or 3" Straight off old e28 ECU - MS2 + Air temp sensor + o2 The plan: Engine - 55 lbs Injectors / FPR / MLS or Cooper Ring Head Gasket / Block (Stock for now) / Head (Stock for now) Engine Mount - Right side custom (dependant on space required) Suspension - JRZ Coilovers (or similar) , Sway bars Intake - Now Either ITB setup from M5 or Custom 2JZ Exhaust - Custom 2 x 2" - 2.5" full exhaust Driveline - LSD 3.97 (dependent on power output) / Balanced drive shaft Bushings - New all around Cage - Half / Full cage Paint - Touch up / undercarriage repaint (have a custom color in mind but $$$ dependent & access to booth) Induction - T3 Twin Scroll - HSR40RS (lightened compressor wheel) Insides - Seats refurbished / New carpet (due to leaky battery one of my family members put in there while i was oversea's) I'm in the manawatu area, so just giving a shout out as im sure i will need help down the track as im not superman haha. I will update this as i go through the build. Update 4.0: So not much has gone on since august due to issues with parts, but fuel system images below and manifold is now ready to be finalised. There is going to be another delay once completed due to having to sell another project to re-finance this one
  3. Hi guys. I'm making a hybrid m30. A m30b34 block with a b35 head on it. I'm not sure what head gasket to buy though. The 1.72mm or 2.07mm one. I've tried searching, but I've only been able to find turbo applications (this is stock NA). Thanks
  4. I am having a starting issue with the M30B35 in my E28. I'll start from the beginning so that all the details are here. When the motor was in the E34, the fuel pump was jumped between the ignition 12v pin and the pump power wire to get it to work. I tried a relay (which was unknown condition) to see if it would work but it did not. The car also developed a very bad miss just before I pulled the motor out until the day I drove it to the place I was working at to pull the motor out. What would happen is the car would start ok but missed and backfired under throttle, the more you pressed the worse it was. It was driveable cold but got worse as it warmed up and became pretty much undriveable when warmed up. The day I was driving to pull the motor, it stalled on me a block from the place. I tried to start it but it wouldn't fire and the battery went completely flat. So we towed it. Once there, I jump started it to see if it would start and it started a bit rough, then came to life and ran perfectly. Drove it up and down the road a bit and it ran without a single issue. So I took it inside and pulled the motor. Once the engine was in my E28, when we first started it, it ran rough like it did in the E34 when it was missing. I fiddle around a bit, left it for a day with the battery disconnected and then the next day it started up fine. Ever since then the car was running fine, except for a slight miss at low revs, until I pulled my gearbox off to change the clutch. When I put it back on, it did the same thing. It ran rough and missed, so I let is sit for a couple hours with the battery disconnected. What do you know, started up and ran perfectly fine. Last weekend I decided to swap the loom and DME to see if it would solve the fuel relay issue and other issues like the ICV not working at all. It gets 12v to all 3 pins with ignition on. The fuel pump relay gets 12v to all pins when key is in except ground which is grounded, yet the relay (tried 2, one was definitely good) does not work. Anyway, so I swapped the loom and DME, turned ignition on. ICV buzzed as it should. Then I tried to start the car. Nothing. It cranks but will not fire. I triple checked everything and even tried my old ECU, still nothing. ICV no longer buzzes but gets 12v at all pins. Grounds test at 12v, however the coil only gets 9v. I ran a relay for it to test but that only gave it 10v, even though the power wire was a completely new one. Also tried different coil, still nothing. Took my crank sensor out and tested it on my friend's M30 and it worked perfectly fine on his car. All issues the same as with old loom. So I swapped my old loom back on and still have the same issues and won't start. It am 99% sure the DMEs are fine, will test on another car to be 100%. Is there anything else that could cause the car to not fire? One other issue I've had since the car had an auto on the 2.7 is that it won't turn over on the key occasionally, especially when the engine is hot. But this could be bypassed by starting it through the diagnostic port, which worked every time on both the old motor and this motor. I tested today and the starter trigger wire only gets 6v when the motor won't turn, but gets 11.9v when it does. I know this issue is unrelated however I don't know if maybe because of this something is not getting a signal and therefore not starting. But it seems odd that all of a sudden there is a problem. Sorry for the long description but I felt that the details could be necessary. TL;DR: Engine always had some odd wiring issues but ran, swapped harnesses and DME and car wouldn't start. Swapped back to old harness and still won't start. I semi-admit defeat and would appreciate help.
  5. Hi All, Has been awhile but just got to the country so trying to get rid of some parts laying around to put some money back into my project car. I have a set of stock bmw 15" rims with tyres (wouldn't use for road as all old but good for burnouts) - See attached picture Also Evo 4 engine (Missing intake side) , 75k when removed , low compression cyclinder 3 86 Alfa 33 (I think) with 1.7lt alfa sud engine (great for racing) - Full car + spare 1.5 Located in Levin Make me an offer on any parts, can attach further pictures if required
  6. The motor and gearbox are now out of my e28 1984 525e and are for sale. Motor includes everything attached in the photos including loom and ECU. Essentially complete. Loom has been cut at c101 plug but otherwise intact. Gearbox is the 525e Getrag 260/5 and includes flywheel with correct TDC mark, sensors, clutch and pressure plate (some meat left but I would recommend getting a new one), full shifter assembly (some parts no pictures) and clutch slave cylinder and rubber line. To do a manual conversion, you would additionally need the clutch hardline, pedal box/clutch pedal, clutch master cylinder, reservoir (I have one of these I can throw in) and driveshaft. Prices: $300 for complete motor, loom and ECU. $600 for gearbox and parts listed above. Pickup from Penrose.
  7. http://www.trademe.co.nz/a.aspx?id=1081441559 "Im lead to believe that this was the last e28 to be sold new in NZ and was bought by the then BMW Club President. She has obviously been well taken care of over the years as the overall condition is pretty good. There are a few small dents but the car is rust and accident free. I bought it in April 2015 with a blown head gasket. The head was crack tested and rebuilt as well as the bottom end inspected. Internally the motor is perfect and it does not use/drip/burn any oil. The transmission shifts perfectly. I have replaced boot and door seals, new brake pads, filters, wheel bearings and the previous owner replaced the radiator and radiator hoses. I removed the interior and had everything cleaned, other than the rip in the drivers seat it has come up really nice. This model has the factory LSD and bilstein suspension and the car drives very smooth. I have done a couple of longer trips over the summer and its has been an awesome cruising car with surprisingly good fuel economy."
  8. I'm after a single mass M30 flywheel to fit my M30B35. Could make use of a clutch too if someone happens to have one as I'm looking at getting one rebuilt to stronger specs. Can anyone confirm if M30B28 flywheels are the same? I'm in Auckland but beggars can't be choosers and all that.
  9. eliongater

    e28 parting

    I'm currently stripping (and cutting) a 1987 525e for parts for my 85 525e and 86 m535i. I don't really have enough space at home for all of the parts so I need to get rid of some. Once I've finished stripping it I'll post the excess parts, but in the mean time if there are parts you want just ask (as I also have spares from my other e28s). I will get pictures up either this evening or tomorrow (and prices, don't worry mods ) Some parts I know I will have excess of are: doors (various conditions) Shocks and hubs Maybe some glass
  10. I need an instrument cluster with normal rev counter, NOT the eta one. Need to for my M30 swap. All gauges working. Who's got one to sell me?
  11. 1986+ 525e intake boot (have a newer TB coming to suit) Shift linkage support, 25-11-1-220-707 Thanks
  12. Hi guys, I wasn't planning on buying another project but an e28 m535i popped up for a price I couldn't refuse... I've now got two (maybe) e28 project cars and only space for one. I haven't had time to properly check the body yet, but will be doing so this weekend. If I decide it's worth saving I'll need somewhere to store it (fairly long term I think), if it's too far gone I'll just remove all the parts and put them on my 525e and scrap the body (as much as it pains me to do so ).
  13. Can anybody recommend a good set of most likely 225/50R16 tyres to go on my 16x8 Style 4s for my e28. I'm not looking for the best performance, just reasonable performance and price. They need to have fairly straight side walls else they will rub on the front struts. I was thinking Bridgestone RE003s as that's what everyone seems to recommend. Hoping to spend about $200 per tyre, but will go higher if it's worth it in the long run (e.g. better tyres now, don't have to buy new ones for a bit longer). Thanks
  14. Hi guys I can get new kyb front shocks for my e28 for $100 each. Is it worth it? I'll upload a video of my current shocks tomorrow. Which I think are original monster truck ones Thanks Edit: I know they aren't konis or bilsteins
  15. Hi all, I'm selling a 1987 E28 525e on behalf of the owner in Napier, Hawke's Bay. 5 speed manual running a 2.7ltr M20 Just over 305,000km Power steering Sunroof Central locking Power mirrors Tool kit in boot (missing a socket) Documentation and service history Registered and warranted They'd like to let it go for $4,000. However they're open to offers so please PM me.
  16. WTB - e28 interior centre console with aircon grill in Black. Also I believe the temperature selector is required.
  17. Looking to buy a c101 and c103 plug to suit an early motronic e28. I would rather buy some plugs than cut up my engine loom. They need to be the engine loom side, not the body side plugs. Thanks
  18. Preferably in biege, but other colours considered. It should look like the picture below and have space for two speakers inside. Thanks
  19. Want to buy 18"/19" inch wheels 5x120 Wanting something bigger than 8" wide After 3 Piece BBS/Rotiform/Work/AC etc or something really nice 1 or 2 piece To fit e24/e28 so preferably needs to be less than 20p Cheers!
  20. Hi everyone. Looking at buying a 525e in the middle of a manual swap and just wanted to check if it would need a cert or some special mention in insurance? I believe a bracket needs to be welded on for the shift linkage. thanks
  21. Is actually in Wellington, not Nelson. Would be a steal if it was a manual. I guess at 1 grand it's not too bad as an auto either. http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/bmw/auction-875897866.htm
  22. Hey guys, Would you happen to know if a E28 full manual conversion kit would fit on an E30? One has popped up for sale from an M20 powered car, and kinda want to jump on it ASAP cause its a steal. Getrag 260 box btw. Will the pedal box etc all fit in? Thanks for your input.
  23. Bring out your orphans. Will consider all options. Don't want to spend a lot. Not metric ;-)
  24. A shot in the dark but I'm after a M Technic Rear Bootlid Spoiler for an '87 E28. Preferably in good condition. Cheers!
  25. E28 rear tail light for sale. Used, it has a registration number etched in to the reflector. $60, plus shipping which I am guessing would be $15 or pick up south auckland.
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